I was under the impression that the torque converter locks so it gives you a solid connection to the rear wheels with this automatic.

My point is that it takes more effort to rotate the components in the A7 than it does in the 6MT, which results in slightly less power being transmitted to the wheels. The A7, as with most all automatics, "consume" more power than their manual counterparts.

It's just a case of efficiency. The 6MT is more efficient at transferring power through the drivetrain to the wheels than A7.

OP, what you will want to pay attention to is the difference between dynos with the different setups. If you still have your stock intakes, bring them with... heck, install them now, get a few runs with that setup, then put the R2c back in, and do some more runs.

The actual numbers really don't mean all that much, since every dyno is calibrated differently. There are just too many variables to compare Car A being dyno'd in California, to Car B being dyno'd in New York.

Ideally, you'd want to do a few pulls when stock to get a baseline, then install each mod independently to get more numbers, and so on... but that's not realistic for 99% of us as far as $$$$$$ is concerned.

If you were hoping to prove something about these intakes, using someone elses dyno as a baseline is not the way to do it. The gains from intakes are not that large and you are dealing with 2 different cars on different days. Regardless, good luck on your run =]

Agree with you 100%, but I installed my goodies when I lived in NE Ohio, there were no places to do a dyno run nearby to get a baseline. I don't feel like uninstalling the R2Cs, doing a dyno run, then installing the R2Cs again and do another run (plus the wife would kill me). Ultimately, I want to know what I have at the wheels now - I know it's more than stock. Posting the numbers will give people an idea what my setup delivers FWIW.

Very true! But you know you will be teased for being lazy, and whipped! lol ;)

Still in for the results! :D

Nah that wont work either. You have to drive several miles or do at least a good 6-10 runs on the dyno for the ECU to adjust to the new intakes.

Not to mention we all know Short rams either make negligible gains or lose power. The same car with the same setup will produce +- 7hp on different runs. So in all honesty, you're not going to be able to tell whether your car gained or lost power from the short rams regardless. You're gonna have to do a few runs at the same temperature get the average, then switch them out and drive around with those for a few miles, then come back and do a few runs at the same temp, average that and compare. Even then, the rest of the mods increase the deviation from run to run so much that its impossible to get any sort of conclusive results about the performance of the R2C.

Agree - if there were any gains from the R2C, they were not really noticeable. Even if I gained 10HP, the butt-dyno did not notice it. It did score on looks and sound. Also the filtration seems to be top notch and easy to clean. The crazy thing is that apparently the same intake on a G37 netted more HP than the Stillen G3. See attached graph.

Yeah, how was the testing done?

It is very hard to test any intake. The car sitting stationary on a dyno with the hood up or the bumper off and a fan trying to simulate driving down a highway has too many variables to accurately measure what is really happening. Regardless which intake you are using, the Modshack vent mod. will definitely help because cooler air is better.

Off topic, but has anyone gotten any good results from an ECU reflash?

Test results are in!

I'm glad someone finally has a dyno with these...But, you have nothing to compare those numbers to? No clue if it went up or down? lol

Correct! But - there is no reason the numbers would be lower with the R2Cs.

285, not bad. Whats a baseline for an AT?