K&N Typhoon Release

NXTAZEE

A free intake is a good intake . Honestly though can you feel any improvement? Also, how does it sound?

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2010 Carbon Silver 370Z 7AT charcoal int. sports package | Clear Bra | Invidia Gemini CBE | CF B-Pillars | CF Fangs | CF Z emblems | Swift Springs | 20mm & 25mm Spacers | SPC Camber Arms | Brushed Aluminum shift knob

ilive2win

well i had my hks exhaust and hfc installed right at the same time the intakes were installed so of course i felt more power. with the exhaust, the intakes sound great. not that loud though. i think the injens are louder. def louder than stock. sounds good though.

i lucked out on this deal with the intakes, i was in the market for some intakes when thisdeal popped up. i was about to get the injens. i wasnt going to pay 900-1000 bucks for intakes, thats rediculous, especially if your not going to keep them on forever and going a different route later on

6spd

The welds make them look really cheap, like APC kinda cheap. Maybe its just the pics, IDK.

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tjlazer

I think I might get these if the price is right...

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2009 370Z Monterey Blue,Nismo Conversion,RE-11's, K&N Typhoon intakes,Blue Kickplates,Homelink,FI 18" CBE,ERZ HFCs,Hotchkis sways, Swift Spec-R, EVO-R Highwing, UPREV

Tresfr

I have been happy to see companies like F1,Stillen, and Invidia comment on power gains and when independent dynos come out they are really close to the claims. Large aftermarket companies like K&N and many others are notorious for outrageous claims and I have no doubt this K&N won't make close to the claimed HP and on a hot day I would not be surprised if it were lower than stock.

Buy these for looks and sound but not power. I think there are better looking short ram intakes out there.

Nikon FM

Interesting detail. Look at the diameter change between where the sensor plugs in and downstream to where the intake connects to the engine. Essentially the step change would slow the flow down compared to the sensor location and then the step would induce turbulence in the flow to the engine………….new science for gains?

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Buddy Revell: "One man's sooner is another man's later"

ZKindaGuy

I'm reading the responses and I am getting the impression that folks here think that if a car runs air intakes with no box enclosure or shields that form an enclosure with the hood that the temperatures of the air are going to be outragiously high. I believe this is coming from a lack of detail understanding in regards to the dymnamics occurring with the air under teh hood. There are alot of things coming into play that impact the intake air temperatures.

I have performed air intake temperature tuning while collecting and analyzing the ECU data for ambient and air-intake temperatures as measured by a function of the MAF sensor when aggressively tuning my various Mustangs and using air kits composed of various materials and physical configurations. I found the following results when doing the testing:

If I used a kit having titaneum piping + air cones with shields, I found that WHILE THE CAR IS MOVING the air intake temperature and the ambient air temperature consistently stayed within 4 degrees of each other.

If the titaneum piping was replaced with a chrome plated pipe I found that WHILE THE CAR IS MOVING the air intake temperature and the ambient air temperature stayed consistently 15 to 30 degrees apart from each other. BTW the chrome plated test actually had the air intake out in the wheel well. I was expecting cooler intake-air temperatures and found instead the chrome completely saturates the incoming air with heat.

If the titaneum or chrome plated intake piping was replaced with a rubber pipe I found that WHILE THE CAR IS MOVING the air intake temperature and the ambient air temperature stayed consistently within 2 degrees of each other.

If the shielding was removed on any of the above configurations I found that WHILE THE CAR IS MOVING the air intake temperature and the ambient air temperature consistently stayed within 4 to 6 degrees of each other.


So a couple of things I concluded about judging air intake kits in terms of the overall performance of each or compared with each other:

1. Consider the materials used to construct the kit as this is usually the major factor (versus containment OR location) that causes the air temperatures to rise. CHROME plated piping is the worst piping material one can construct an air intake kit from. Titanium is usually better and rubber intake piping is usually the better of either of the other two. The question you need to ask yourself for this one is "Do I want performance gains or do I want the engine bay catch the onlooker attention at the expense of potential performance?"

2. The location of the air cone is important (inside the bay v. outside the bay)....HOWEVER...it's position is NOT going to mean jack-squat if you disregard #1 above (what are the materials comprising the piping?). In the case of exterior bay located air cones, if the air kit uses CHROME PLATED pipes then they will not soak heat to warm the air intake air IF THE CHROME PLATED PIPING IS ON THE EXTERIOR OF THE BAY. However expect that that portion of CHROME PLATED PIPE that is running inside the engine bay to get hot and heat the air intake temperatures which can result in some temperature-gain offsetting of some temperature loss made from the exterior locatied portion of the intake-piping.

3. Notice in the testing I had done I kept emphasing "WHILE THE CAR IS MOVING".....the air-intake and ambiant temperatures will stay within a close range of each other (except CHROME intakes) if the car is MOVING. The moment the car stops at a light or something and begins to sit for more than 10 seconds the air intake temperatures will begin to rise fast and continue doing so until the air starts moving again through the engine bay when the car is moving. Depending on the weather outside and how long the car sits still, I have seen the air temperatures arise as much as 75 degrees above the ambient air temperatures. And then expect a good five to ten minutes of continuous moving of the car to get teh air-intake and ambient temperatures back within a reasonable proximity of each other.

This is the one point I find most people just don't get. The air-intake and ambiant temperatures stay within very reasonable and close proximity of each other while the car is moving. WHY? Because you just wouldn't believe how torrent the air flow is from the free flowing air entering the air-damn areas and being deflected off the various angles of the engine part assemblies. And yes I actually did a study of this as well when I was trying to decide between using a "no-shield" versus a "shield" configuration for that particular Stang....so yes there is HOT air occurring under the hood produced by the engine BUT when the car is moving the HOT air is being continuously flushed out of every crevise the air can get through by the torrent currents of air caused by the air entering the air-damns while the cars is moving. This is a good reason to have heat extractors as part of the external hood surface design.

And this brings me to point #4: From what I determined from teh shield testing the shields are there more to mitigate the torrent air flow happening as explained in #3 and just about zero in regards to functioning to control the rise in air-intake temperatures. In fact, I don't call these shields "HEAT" shields...I refer to them as "DEFLECTOR" shields or "WASH" shields as their function is mostly about controlling currents of air around the air-cone so a smooth induction of air can take place before being measured by the MAF sensor.

So my point I am trying to make here is there is alot of myth wrapped up in the various discussions about CAI kits because people are just repeating hearsay again and again from others without realizing the true nature of the complex dynamics occurring under the hood in regards to the CAI kit material design and its functional physics.

So I hope this provides a basis for understanding your car in this particular area of interest a little better.

Nikon FM

^ Thanks! Having an understanding of the data is key!

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Buddy Revell: "One man's sooner is another man's later"

6spd

bravo! I remember guys doing this same test on the clubrsx forums. the results can be disheartening to say the least. with the plethora of materials available and each with its own distinct cost factor, usually the more expensive "exotic" type materials have better overall performance. but like zkindaguy said, plain old rubber hoses do their job just fine. it would be neat to see carbon or fiberglass boxes like Mugen makes for hondas!

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-Jay- jonathanjamesphotographer.com

tjlazer

So what you are saying is that the Stillen G3 CAI would be a lot better with rubber piping instead of chrome? WOW

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2009 370Z Monterey Blue,Nismo Conversion,RE-11's, K&N Typhoon intakes,Blue Kickplates,Homelink,FI 18" CBE,ERZ HFCs,Hotchkis sways, Swift Spec-R, EVO-R Highwing, UPREV

G Fo12ce

Have you ever seen the Password JDM intake for the S2000? Something like that would be cool. Expensive, but they it sounds like they put a lot of engineering in the design and nice materials.

PWJDM S2K Intake

Pic of the kevlar version (the make dry carbon too)

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frost

With a fan blowing cold air on them.

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370z OG

vipor

That's like a stomach and liver for a s2k or somethin

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2009 NISMO # 0193 | QAB | Albums! | 05.04.10 (Dynojet) 291.94hp/248.28tq
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ZKindaGuy

Carbon fiber piping works well in terms of mitgating heat however the carbon pipe over time has a problem of sliding out of place at its connecting intersection with the intake plenum from vibrations because of the carbon-fiber smoothness. If it wasn't for that one flaw the use of carbon-fiber would be more prevalent in the making of the piping.

ZKindaGuy

Well I think the majority of the piping of the G3 piping lies outside the engine bay doesn't it? Any portion of the piping lying inside the engine bay will be subject to heat however. Remember I stated that there would be some amount of temperature raising from inside piping that would offset some amount of temperature lowering that occurs from the outside piping. Overall the G3 would and appears to still produce a performance gain because the lowering in temperature exceeds the raising in temperature degrees so the final temperature being measured at the MAF is still an oveerall net lowering.

There is a problem with using all rubber however that I failed to say in my first posting. And that is the coefficient of friction is greater for rubber than metal. So the "fluid" air flow running through the rubber pipe will be slower than in metal pipe. However the air temperatures in a rubber pipe will be maintained to be much lower than in metal pipe.

This speaks directly to my exact point I am making when I said there are alot of dynamics going on regarding the air flow and temperature and that it isn't just a simple straight matter of fact when comparing CAI kits.