Maybe the hiss is the pounds and pounds of carbon monoxide and NOX that the car is emitting now that the cats are off.

^^^^ gtfo

You dont have a leak. The hiss/rattle/metalic flutter on these cars once you go test pipes + exhaust is, IMO, horrible. The LTH's are amazingly gorgeous pieces. The fact they're being made by F.I. is an honor as their work is proven perfection. Only problem I see with them is they magnify that test pipe rasp 2x. Maybe they made a way to make the rasp sound good, ie; rattlesnake ;)

My opinion on the rasp is, its harmonic. It seems when you hear it from below the car you can nearly feel the rattle coming from right before the Y/H/X setup. Seems that exhausts that have resonators right before that point in the system have MUCH less rasp than anyone else. Also, and I'm not sure how true it is but I heard "true duals" that have no connection to each other have no hiss, but I cannot confirm this.

Tony - After all the exhaust issues i've gone threw etc etc I may cave in and order a system from you after the SC install. Most likely 18"/CF - I really love the sound your system gives out. Good work, top notch!

If and when you are ready, call me...

Tony

My install has turned into a total, epic disaster. We started at 9am this morning. It is now almost 10pm and we have quit for the night. We have the driver's side done but we cannot get the passenger side header off. The problem? Just one single nut -- the bottom center one, won't break loose, and now the nut has rounded and we're f*cked. This is a f-ing nightmare. I'm going to bed.

You're right... drove a friend's Z with HFCs and one of the true dual CBEs and no hiss at all.

Yikes... good luck getting that sorted.

Damn. Sometimes walking away is the best thing. Good night and good luck tomorrow!

Keep your head up brother. It will all be worth it when the job gets done. A new day awaits u tomorrow. I cant wait for your review

lol yup got my care package. looks great just have to find some time to install these.. I already did the x pipe myself thats easy.. as far as the headers do you absolutely have to disconnect the steering knuckle.. if i remember correctly your test pipe install said to do the same thing but i got it done without disconnecting it..

:facepalm: :shakes head: :shakes head: :shakes head:

DAM!!! I FEEL FOR YA!!!!

me too,...
I got that stripped driver side bolt and I quit and havent installed it yet the FI HFC...
Actually been working more on my friend's subaru lgt upipe install, my 6 pot front brembos, rear pads, etc etc,...

HFC still sitting in the box... Get some rest,..look into a bolt extractor and give it another shot,....satisfaction comes from hard work.....

HGonzales,..who did the install? Just curious?

Dyno posted on first post. Take it for what it is.
As for my installer, Seth @ Sonic Motorsports handled it, and didn't round any bolts and was prepared for my cat bolts. He's worked on alot of HRs and is also a Cobb AP pro tuner. Great guy and seemed to know his way around my engine as if it were his own. I'll go there again if there's anything I'm not confident enough to handle myself. :tup:

You gonna give the car some time to learn then re dyno?

The ecu only 'learns' in closed-loop mode, which is only used for idle/low load/cruise conditions. During acceleration, deceleration, and WOT (wide open throttle), the ecu relies on its pre-programmed fuel and ignition tables. That's why products like Osiris and Accessport exist, to reprogram what the ecu does at WOT.