failed HFC install

Zsteve · 03-17-2010, 11:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Red370

yeah, me and the OP tried unsuccessfully this past weekend, so they made more progress than we did at the hobby shop, but damn Steve, this was a total downer, i wanted to hear that thing. Did they use any PB breakfree?

yea they soaked it good and they used all good quality tools and spent about 2+ hrs trying.

Zsteve · 03-17-2010, 11:47 AM

These guys didnt seem to want to try the torch thing so I will find a shop that will do it and see how it goes. But Im nor trying to spend too much for a few HP.

RCZ · 03-17-2010, 12:55 PM

First lots of anti-seize.

Then get a torch in there, heat up the hell out of the metal around the screw to get it to expand and then remove the screw.

Its interesting that shops can "fail" at installing things. Seems like they need to fix your car now for free because they couldnt remove a screw without stripping it.

Zsteve · 03-17-2010, 01:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RCZ

First lots of anti-seize.

Then get a torch in there, heat up the hell out of the metal around the screw to get it to expand and then remove the screw.

Its interesting that shops can "fail" at installing things. Seems like they need to fix your car now for free because they couldnt remove a screw without stripping it.

I thought about that but since they were not sure about the torch thing and all, I was thinking so do I really want them trying stuff they arent comfortable doing. I will probably try another shop and if they cant get it I will just not do the HFCs. Im hoping the Cobb will still net me some good gains without the HFC, and just my CBE and intake filters. Im hoping adjusting the timing and A/F will net me the most.

Nitex · 03-17-2010, 02:54 PM

I had this exact same issue when installing my HFC's. I will be posting an install thread with my thoughts from the past month of having gen 3's, berk HFC, and Stillen CBE. As well as the pics of the stripped bolt. It was a PITA and took over an hour just to remove both HFC's due to those stubborn top bolts. I haven't read the whole thread but i hope you find a solution soon.

__________________________________________________ _
09 PG 370z 6MT Base - Stillen Gen 3's, Berk HFC's and Stillen CBE

Zsteve · 03-17-2010, 03:33 PM

thanks, what did u do to get the stripped bolt?

bluestyle55 · 03-17-2010, 07:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RCZ

Its interesting that shops can "fail" at installing things. Seems like they need to fix your car now for free because they couldnt remove a screw without stripping it.

Don't give up brother.... the HFC is worth it!!

phantom21 · 03-18-2010, 06:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt

It's certainly the same bolt that gives everyone trouble.

Clark had the same problem with mine, but after removing the intake boxes and rearranging some things, he was able to get enough room to do his magic. Mine may not have been as stuck as yours, however.

I wish you were back in Augusta so you'd have the Performance Center to check out. I'd keep putting something like PB Blaster on it, and try it again next weekend. My buddy had a similar issue, so he just sprayed it every day for a week, and had no issues when he went to remove it.

Yeah Matt, I had the same issue with mine. It took both guys at Performance to get mine off. Ultimately, it took getting a torch in there and literally melting the bolt to free it up. I got some pics in this thread of it. HELP!! Rounded PITA top CAT bolt

Good luck, because I would have never been able to get it out. If the guys at Performance couldnt get it that way, they were going to take the header off.

Matt · 03-18-2010, 07:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phantom21

Yeah Matt, I had the same issue with mine. It took both guys at Performance to get mine off. Ultimately, it took getting a torch in there and literally melting the bolt to free it up. I got some pics in this thread of it. HELP!! Rounded PITA top CAT bolt

Good luck, because I would have never been able to get it out. If the guys at Performance couldnt get it that way, they were going to take the header off.

Yikes! They torched that thing!

And I agree, the HFCs are worth it man! Don't give up!

From Phantom's thread:

Mike · 03-18-2010, 10:41 AM

It took the guys at Forged 3 hours to get my test pipes installed because of that stupid bolt, and the car was still brand new!

Modshack · 03-18-2010, 11:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike

It took the guys at Forged 3 hours to get my test pipes installed because of that stupid bolt, and the car was still brand new!

I've found so many places where they Gorilla Torqued fasteners on this car..
Either the torque specs are way out of line, or the production torque wrenches are way out of calibration. We just had to replace a short hardline on the rear caliper on Zpirates car while putting stainless lines on due to extreme torque used on the part into the OEM brake line Block...

evse82 · 03-18-2010, 06:11 PM

Use the threaded bolt unfastners to get it off. They are sockets with a swivelled thread that digs into the bolts head and takes them off. I used one on a door bolt once on a mates car that was completely round and it came out first shot....

Also installing my HFC's and exhaust took about 3 hours. (the exhaust was like 25 minutes - that bolt was like 2 hours lol)

NYBladeZ · 03-18-2010, 06:31 PM

My mechanic heated the flange up until it looked cherry red and then the bolt gave away

Zsteve · 03-18-2010, 07:31 PM

Thanks guys Im gonna find a shop that is confidnent in doing it and Ill make sure they get a god look at it before they say yea or nay.

And on a side note, I wanted these on really quick cuz my Cobb accessport was on its way but I called them today and they are on back order cuz they have sold their last five units in the past week. I guess bullit and red370 made them some money.

ZKindaGuy · 03-18-2010, 07:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by g96818

what u mean? u just heated the bolt up and loosened it? doesn't heat make metal expand?

Yea I always use a propane torch to loosen bolts. I first heat the bolt then spray some Liquid Wrench on the exposed surfaces and walk away for a half-hour. As the bolt cools it sucks in the Liquid Wrench into the thread area. When I come back in a half hour the bolt will loosen right out with just minor resistence. Has always worked for me for over 30 years.

03-17-2010, 11:47 AM	#17 (permalink)
Zsteve A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: TX Posts: 3,298 Drives: the 2 balled club Rep Power: 22	These guys didnt seem to want to try the torch thing so I will find a shop that will do it and see how it goes. But Im nor trying to spend too much for a few HP. __________________ 2010 LS3 C6 Silver coupe corvette

03-17-2010, 03:33 PM	#21 (permalink)
Zsteve A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: TX Posts: 3,298 Drives: the 2 balled club Rep Power: 22	thanks, what did u do to get the stripped bolt? __________________ 2010 LS3 C6 Silver coupe corvette

03-18-2010, 10:41 AM	#25 (permalink)
Mike The370Z.com Sponsor Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Loganville, GA Posts: 5,944 Drives: 370z Rep Power: 2186	It took the guys at Forged 3 hours to get my test pipes installed because of that stupid bolt, and the car was still brand new! __________________ NISSAN: 75 280Z / 86 300ZX GLL /87 Sentra SE / 03 350Z / 23 Z Porsche: 93 968 / 23 Macan GTS / 93 968

03-18-2010, 06:31 PM	#28 (permalink)
NYBladeZ A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: New York Posts: 2,158 Drives: Lotus Exige S Rep Power: 20	My mechanic heated the flange up until it looked cherry red and then the bolt gave away __________________ 2009 Carbon Fiber/Red 370z aka Trish: Sports Package, Meisterschaft full catback, Fast Intentions Longtube Headers, Injen Long Tube Intakes, UpRev Tune: Sold 2008 Lotus Exige S Club Racer aka Bella, always leaves me smiling

03-18-2010, 07:31 PM	#29 (permalink)
Zsteve A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: TX Posts: 3,298 Drives: the 2 balled club Rep Power: 22	Thanks guys Im gonna find a shop that is confidnent in doing it and Ill make sure they get a god look at it before they say yea or nay. And on a side note, I wanted these on really quick cuz my Cobb accessport was on its way but I called them today and they are on back order cuz they have sold their last five units in the past week. I guess bullit and red370 made them some money. __________________ 2010 LS3 C6 Silver coupe corvette

03-17-2010, 12:55 PM	#18 (permalink)
RCZ A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Miami Posts: 6,403 Drives: '09 370Z Rep Power: 1119	First lots of anti-seize. Then get a torch in there, heat up the hell out of the metal around the screw to get it to expand and then remove the screw. Its interesting that shops can "fail" at installing things. Seems like they need to fix your car now for free because they couldnt remove a screw without stripping it.

03-17-2010, 02:54 PM	#20 (permalink)
Nitex Track Member Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Seattle Posts: 848 Drives: '13 GTI Stage 2 UNI Rep Power: 16	I had this exact same issue when installing my HFC's. I will be posting an install thread with my thoughts from the past month of having gen 3's, berk HFC, and Stillen CBE. As well as the pics of the stripped bolt. It was a PITA and took over an hour just to remove both HFC's due to those stubborn top bolts. I haven't read the whole thread but i hope you find a solution soon. __________________________________________________ _ 09 PG 370z 6MT Base - Stillen Gen 3's, Berk HFC's and Stillen CBE

03-18-2010, 06:11 PM	#27 (permalink)
evse82 Track Member Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Melbourne, AUS Posts: 609 Drives: Black 370z MT Rep Power: 18	Use the threaded bolt unfastners to get it off. They are sockets with a swivelled thread that digs into the bolts head and takes them off. I used one on a door bolt once on a mates car that was completely round and it came out first shot.... Also installing my HFC's and exhaust took about 3 hours. (the exhaust was like 25 minutes - that bolt was like 2 hours lol)

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