I was using a 3/4" sockets and extentions, but at the top I used a 3/4" to 1/2" adapter to 1/2" breaker bar. That way I can get more torque and leverage to get the bolt off.

I have a Sears stripped bolt extractor and taped it to the socket and used the method above. The extractor socket just slipped and came off, but after watching some youtube videos, they also banged the extractor socket over the stripped head. When the socket slipped, i noticed it was the tip of the socket and banging it onto the head might get more surface area. Problem is, if this doesnt work, hopefully the socket wont get stuck to the nut head as i don't see a way to get it off and one would have to drive around with a socket on exhaust bolt head.....

Worse case too, if the nut head totally breaks off, how does one separae the 2 flanges with the threaded bolt stock joining the header flange and cat,...this would seem worse IMO

Do you have another person to help! this is the frustrating part, you need someone to keep their hand on the socket so it doesn't slip off, that's how I got mine off. I held it in place while someone else cranked on it with a ratchet with a breaker bar.. mind you they are a pain in the arse to remove..

edit: in the event the bolt head snaps you can remove the cat at that point and from the hole thats left you use the bolt and nut to retighten it back up. since part of the bolt is now stuck on the cat you can extract it easier off the car so you can reuse in the future.

Have a question,..

If the bolt head shears off, isnt the threaded part still in joining the header flange and cat flange together? Can someone verify this? Not sure how one can separate the cat from the exhaust manifold flange at this point....

I will try your method as well and ask my cuzn to hold the extension and socket in place as I torque it off...

the thread is not on the header flange so if it gets broken off the threaded part will be left stuck on the cat which if you removed the screws on the other end towards the rear you should be able to work it loose damn I wish I could just be there to help...argh...
here are some pics of what I finally used 1/2'' size deep 14mm
http://images38.fotki.com/v231/photo...SCF0502-vi.jpg
http://images17.fotki.com/v295/photo...SCF0505-vi.jpg
http://images53.fotki.com/v444/photo...SCF0503-vi.jpg
http://images53.fotki.com/v444/photo...SCF0504-vi.jpg
http://images53.fotki.com/v444/photo...SCF0507-vi.jpg
http://images17.fotki.com/v522/photo...SCF0510-vi.jpg
http://images47.fotki.com/v1589/phot...SCF0509-vi.jpg

Why is there a 9/16th socket in the picture? A 6 point 14mm is the socket you need to use. 9/16=14.3mm

probably the 02 sensor remover?

I heard these work fairly well for removing stubborn bolts:







http://www.militarypictures.info/d/80-3/Barret_M82.jpg

I was in a hurry at a local auto parts, and thats the only socket close to what I needed was a 9/16 and thats close to a 14mm just like a 1/2 is close to 13mm and so forth... the long socket made it possible for it not to slip...

o2's are usually 7/8", or 22mm.

:iagree:

Just took a guess..
Btw,..White 370z's is another color that looks great next to red.
Red too flashy and attractive to cops.
I already have 2 black cars,
I think PG is the nicest color for me for a Z....

OMFG did no one read that thread on the stripped wheel bolt... I read the whole thread... HAHAHHA wow.

Exactly the kind of bolt extractor I have,..Just got to hammer it onto the head so that it wont slip off....