HELP!! Rounded PITA top CAT bolt

KEVTEX · 01-04-2010, 10:21 AM

A skilled user of the blue tip wrench will get the job done.

phantom21 · 01-04-2010, 11:31 AM

The would have to be VERY skilled... I dont see how you are going to get a cutting torch down there.

CBRich · 01-04-2010, 03:11 PM

There are flexible extensions for drills. Maybe something like that could help you out. You would still need an extra man below with gloves on to guide and keep aligned the bit.

phantom21 · 01-04-2010, 08:39 PM

Well, I got brave and stuck the propane torch to it. Me and my brother got it cherry red and it still would not budge. We put the car back together tonight. I'm taking it to the local shop tomorrow. <crosses fingers>

phantom21 · 01-05-2010, 05:20 AM

This morning in the shower (calm down Frost, I know what you are thinking), I had a brain storm. If this local mechanic can't remove the bolt, what if I JB welded the socket onto the bolt; let it set up and then tried to remove it?

CBRich · 01-05-2010, 07:25 AM

So go ahead and do it before you take it to the mechanic. I would hate to see anybody here defeated by a bolt.

phantom21 · 01-05-2010, 08:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CBRich

So go ahead and do it before you take it to the mechanic. I would hate to see anybody here defeated by a bolt.

I'll let you guys know what happens this afternoon.

Nah, its far from over. I'll drop the header before I call it quits.

I had another idea thrown at me today at work. What if we can spot weld a nut to the top of the bolt?

Daishi · 01-05-2010, 10:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phantom21

I'll let you guys know what happens this afternoon.

Nah, its far from over. I'll drop the header before I call it quits.

I had another idea thrown at me today at work. What if we can spot weld a nut to the top of the bolt?

dropping the header wont work either you cant get the header out with the cat still attached not enuf room to get it out so i was told when i had the same issue.

phantom21 · 01-05-2010, 10:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Daishi

dropping the header wont work either you cant get the header out with the cat still attached not enuf room to get it out so i was told when i had the same issue.

From what I see, I don't see how that would be an issue. With the connected header and cat free, in hand, you should be able to easily get to all three bolt/nut/stud combos that holding them together....unless I'm really missing something. The only issue I have of not using/trying a wrench or channel locks is the firewall and steering shaft.

Daishi · 01-05-2010, 10:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phantom21

From what I see, I don't see how that would be an issue. With the connected header and cat free, in hand, you should be able to easily get to all three bolt/nut/stud combos that holding them together....unless I'm really missing something. The only issue I have of not using/trying a wrench or channel locks is the firewall and steering shaft.

Beats me I was told by a reputable source that that method wouldnt work. It sucks that its the drivers side or else you can fit a dremmel down their and just cut part of the bolt..

KEVTEX · 01-05-2010, 08:07 AM

JB weld is not a good idea, as it is not strong enough.

Chris@FsP · 01-05-2010, 11:44 AM

I wouldn't bother with JB weld. Have you thought about a nut splitter?

phantom21 · 01-05-2010, 11:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FailsafePerf

I wouldn't bother with JB weld. Have you thought about a nut splitter?

Appreciate the idea and I've never heard or seen one of these. What's stuck is a bolt with no nut on the end. Both the header and cat are threaded at this connector. So, splitting or knocking the top of the bolt head off would only complicate matters I would think, right?

Chris@FsP · 01-05-2010, 12:01 PM

My apologies, I was thinking you had rounded off a nut, not a bolt. Carry on!

phantom21 · 01-05-2010, 12:06 PM

Oh, no problem I learned something...never heard of them before; awesome concept.

01-04-2010, 11:31 AM	#2 (permalink)
phantom21 Base Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: South Carolina Posts: 153 Drives: 370Z Base+Sport 6M Rep Power: 16	The would have to be VERY skilled... I dont see how you are going to get a cutting torch down there. __________________ 2009 PG 6spd Sport \|\| 30% side tint, 15% rear \|\| All Redline fluids \|\| Berk HFC's intalled~PITA Bolt \|\| Stillen G3's \|\| Berk CBE \|\| BC Racing Coilovers with 10K/12K Swift springs & RA valving\|\| SPL rear camber arms \|\| 20mm/15mm spacers

01-04-2010, 08:39 PM	#4 (permalink)
phantom21 Base Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: South Carolina Posts: 153 Drives: 370Z Base+Sport 6M Rep Power: 16	Well, I got brave and stuck the propane torch to it. Me and my brother got it cherry red and it still would not budge. We put the car back together tonight. I'm taking it to the local shop tomorrow. <crosses fingers> __________________ 2009 PG 6spd Sport \|\| 30% side tint, 15% rear \|\| All Redline fluids \|\| Berk HFC's intalled~PITA Bolt \|\| Stillen G3's \|\| Berk CBE \|\| BC Racing Coilovers with 10K/12K Swift springs & RA valving\|\| SPL rear camber arms \|\| 20mm/15mm spacers

01-05-2010, 05:20 AM	#5 (permalink)
phantom21 Base Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: South Carolina Posts: 153 Drives: 370Z Base+Sport 6M Rep Power: 16	This morning in the shower (calm down Frost, I know what you are thinking), I had a brain storm. If this local mechanic can't remove the bolt, what if I JB welded the socket onto the bolt; let it set up and then tried to remove it? __________________ 2009 PG 6spd Sport \|\| 30% side tint, 15% rear \|\| All Redline fluids \|\| Berk HFC's intalled~PITA Bolt \|\| Stillen G3's \|\| Berk CBE \|\| BC Racing Coilovers with 10K/12K Swift springs & RA valving\|\| SPL rear camber arms \|\| 20mm/15mm spacers

01-05-2010, 12:06 PM	#15 (permalink)
phantom21 Base Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: South Carolina Posts: 153 Drives: 370Z Base+Sport 6M Rep Power: 16	Oh, no problem I learned something...never heard of them before; awesome concept. __________________ 2009 PG 6spd Sport \|\| 30% side tint, 15% rear \|\| All Redline fluids \|\| Berk HFC's intalled~PITA Bolt \|\| Stillen G3's \|\| Berk CBE \|\| BC Racing Coilovers with 10K/12K Swift springs & RA valving\|\| SPL rear camber arms \|\| 20mm/15mm spacers

01-04-2010, 10:21 AM	#1 (permalink)
KEVTEX Base Member Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Montgomery, TX Posts: 119 Drives: 2010 370Z 7at sp pg Rep Power: 16	A skilled user of the blue tip wrench will get the job done.

01-04-2010, 03:11 PM	#3 (permalink)
CBRich A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: SC Posts: 2,464 Drives: 370Z Rep Power: 545	There are flexible extensions for drills. Maybe something like that could help you out. You would still need an extra man below with gloves on to guide and keep aligned the bit.

01-05-2010, 07:25 AM	#6 (permalink)
CBRich A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: SC Posts: 2,464 Drives: 370Z Rep Power: 545	So go ahead and do it before you take it to the mechanic. I would hate to see anybody here defeated by a bolt.

01-05-2010, 08:07 AM	#11 (permalink)
KEVTEX Base Member Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Montgomery, TX Posts: 119 Drives: 2010 370Z 7at sp pg Rep Power: 16	JB weld is not a good idea, as it is not strong enough.

01-05-2010, 11:44 AM	#12 (permalink)
Chris@FsP Enthusiast Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Tulsa, OK Posts: 430 Drives: 2008 350Z TT Rep Power: 369	I wouldn't bother with JB weld. Have you thought about a nut splitter?

01-05-2010, 12:01 PM	#14 (permalink)
Chris@FsP Enthusiast Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Tulsa, OK Posts: 430 Drives: 2008 350Z TT Rep Power: 369	My apologies, I was thinking you had rounded off a nut, not a bolt. Carry on!