HELP!! Rounded PITA top CAT bolt

phantom21 · 01-05-2010, 09:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CBRich

So go ahead and do it before you take it to the mechanic. I would hate to see anybody here defeated by a bolt.

I'll let you guys know what happens this afternoon.

Nah, its far from over. I'll drop the header before I call it quits.

I had another idea thrown at me today at work. What if we can spot weld a nut to the top of the bolt?

Daishi · 01-05-2010, 11:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phantom21

I'll let you guys know what happens this afternoon.

Nah, its far from over. I'll drop the header before I call it quits.

I had another idea thrown at me today at work. What if we can spot weld a nut to the top of the bolt?

dropping the header wont work either you cant get the header out with the cat still attached not enuf room to get it out so i was told when i had the same issue.

phantom21 · 01-05-2010, 11:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Daishi

dropping the header wont work either you cant get the header out with the cat still attached not enuf room to get it out so i was told when i had the same issue.

From what I see, I don't see how that would be an issue. With the connected header and cat free, in hand, you should be able to easily get to all three bolt/nut/stud combos that holding them together....unless I'm really missing something. The only issue I have of not using/trying a wrench or channel locks is the firewall and steering shaft.

Daishi · 01-05-2010, 11:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phantom21

From what I see, I don't see how that would be an issue. With the connected header and cat free, in hand, you should be able to easily get to all three bolt/nut/stud combos that holding them together....unless I'm really missing something. The only issue I have of not using/trying a wrench or channel locks is the firewall and steering shaft.

Beats me I was told by a reputable source that that method wouldnt work. It sucks that its the drivers side or else you can fit a dremmel down their and just cut part of the bolt..

Chris@FsP · 01-05-2010, 12:44 PM

I wouldn't bother with JB weld. Have you thought about a nut splitter?

phantom21 · 01-05-2010, 12:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FailsafePerf

I wouldn't bother with JB weld. Have you thought about a nut splitter?

Appreciate the idea and I've never heard or seen one of these. What's stuck is a bolt with no nut on the end. Both the header and cat are threaded at this connector. So, splitting or knocking the top of the bolt head off would only complicate matters I would think, right?

Chris@FsP · 01-05-2010, 01:01 PM

My apologies, I was thinking you had rounded off a nut, not a bolt. Carry on!

phantom21 · 01-05-2010, 01:06 PM

Oh, no problem I learned something...never heard of them before; awesome concept.

Urbanracer · 01-05-2010, 04:49 PM

A friend has these from sears, he told me they seem to work.
link,
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...4506000P?mv=rr

kannibul · 01-05-2010, 05:46 PM

I still say dremel w/ cutoff wheel.

If anything you can cut a big F'n notch in it, wedge a screwdriver against it, and crank on the other end until something gives.

Absolute worst case, you can cut off the HFC at the flange to remove the header...but I'd try cutting off the bolt's head first.

mspeasl · 01-05-2010, 10:02 PM

Torch....................

phantom21 · 01-06-2010, 07:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mspeasl

Torch....................

Well, I took it to The Performance Center in Augusta, GA and these good ol country boys got it off. There is no way I could have gotten it off. They could not break it loose with "conventional" tools either. Ultimately, the certified blue tip wrench tech stepped in to cut the head of the bolt off. Unfortunately, he was unable to pull the O2 trigger to start cutting, so all he could do was literally melt the head of the bolt. That finally disfigured the head of the bolt enough that a socket would hold and enough heat to bust it loose. Even after it was broke loose it was no cake walk. It almost looks like the bolt thread has a bur on it or was slightly cross threaded. But, I'm in business now...onto the G3's. Here is the aftermath...

schrute · 01-06-2010, 07:38 AM

Congratulations on not letting that bolt kick your a$$. Here's wishing the rest of your install goes smoother

CBRich · 01-06-2010, 10:43 AM

Wow. That is a pretty stubborn bolt. I'm going to assume it won't get reused. LOL.

phantom21 · 01-06-2010, 10:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CBRich

Wow. That is a pretty stubborn bolt. I'm going to assume it won't get reused. LOL.

Haha, No. I told them "good job" when they got it out; "now, put it back".

I'm keeping it and making a shrine for it.

01-05-2010, 01:06 PM	#38 (permalink)
phantom21 Base Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: South Carolina Posts: 153 Drives: 370Z Base+Sport 6M Rep Power: 16	Oh, no problem I learned something...never heard of them before; awesome concept. __________________ 2009 PG 6spd Sport \|\| 30% side tint, 15% rear \|\| All Redline fluids \|\| Berk HFC's intalled~PITA Bolt \|\| Stillen G3's \|\| Berk CBE \|\| BC Racing Coilovers with 10K/12K Swift springs & RA valving\|\| SPL rear camber arms \|\| 20mm/15mm spacers

01-05-2010, 04:49 PM	#39 (permalink)
Urbanracer Enthusiast Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: The mid-west, USA Posts: 266 Drives: God's Chariot Rep Power: 16	A friend has these from sears, he told me they seem to work. link, http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...4506000P?mv=rr __________________ 09 Nismo - HKS \| Berk \| HPS \| K&N \| Zspeed 09 Maxima \| 09 CBR 1000RR \| 02 CBR F4i

01-05-2010, 10:02 PM	#41 (permalink)
mspeasl Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Decatur, IL Posts: 367 Drives: Red M6 Sport/Touring Rep Power: 268	Torch Torch.................... __________________ Mspeasl - Central Illinois 2009 - Solid Red, M6 '370' Sport/Touring (Delivered 7 April 09)

01-06-2010, 07:38 AM	#43 (permalink)
schrute Track Member Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: utah Posts: 781 Drives: my z every day Rep Power: 17	Congratulations on not letting that bolt kick your a$$. Here's wishing the rest of your install goes smoother __________________ my journal \| 2009 370z touring \| 6mt \| platinum graphite \| my album second skin \| mr works \| fast intentions \| ssr \| eibach \| hotchkis \| spc \| toyo \| bluebatmobile \| v-led \| jwt \| ventureshield \| tinted tails

01-05-2010, 12:44 PM	#35 (permalink)
Chris@FsP Enthusiast Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Tulsa, OK Posts: 430 Drives: 2008 350Z TT Rep Power: 369	I wouldn't bother with JB weld. Have you thought about a nut splitter?

01-05-2010, 01:01 PM	#37 (permalink)
Chris@FsP Enthusiast Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Tulsa, OK Posts: 430 Drives: 2008 350Z TT Rep Power: 369	My apologies, I was thinking you had rounded off a nut, not a bolt. Carry on!

01-05-2010, 05:46 PM	#40 (permalink)
kannibul A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Jenks, OK Posts: 2,281 Drives: 370z Touring/Sport Rep Power: 267	I still say dremel w/ cutoff wheel. If anything you can cut a big F'n notch in it, wedge a screwdriver against it, and crank on the other end until something gives. Absolute worst case, you can cut off the HFC at the flange to remove the header...but I'd try cutting off the bolt's head first.

01-06-2010, 10:43 AM	#44 (permalink)
CBRich A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: SC Posts: 2,464 Drives: 370Z Rep Power: 544	Wow. That is a pretty stubborn bolt. I'm going to assume it won't get reused. LOL.