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Just wondering of the three i know of, (PPE, FI, Motordyne) which one is worth the money in terms of gains? Also what does the ceramic coating option really do besides withstand high heat and look cooler? Thanks in advance.

Your going to have to get a tune after you install these. That's a drastic change in the exhaust setup and the ECU is not tuned for that. You will probably not notice any difference in power without a tune. You might even feel less.

I know that I'm going to go full bolt on then a tune. just curious as to what would be the best. I've seen good things about all just that fast intentions loses some power on the top end. also saw that motordynes are actually mid length as you can have test pipes/hfc. and I've seen nothing but great things about ppe just that they're pricey compared to other two. I guess I'm trying to figure out if I should go ppe or motordyne, because there's a good price difference in the two even if I bought test pipes for the motordyne.

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Motordyne for the beautiful pipes and no rasp.

.Sry

Mine rasps. I've got the Motordyne with HFCs and Borla CBE and it rasps at about 3k. At least I assume that's what you are speaking of.

If you go with Motordyne, you'll have to extend the O2 sensor cables. I had mine done at Dynosty and they extended them. Not sure exactly how they did it, because you can't solder the wires.

I love them though. Sounds REALLY awesome when you go through a tunnel.

I have same MD but with Helmholtz res, and the note is deep, it is mated with Fast intention cbe with 12" res.

And agree on the o2 sensors, I bought 20 guages automotive wires and my mechanic soldered them to the sensors and it worked well.


As far as quality, I can assure both MD and FI are high quality.

What gains did you see from the LT's? Pretty sure I'd end up going motordyne. Is ceramic coating worth it?

You really don't need a tune unless you do all 3. That is a cai, lth's, and cbe. The ECU will handle lth's by their self and with one other breathing mod. I have the FI LTH, 12" resonators, cbe and G3 cai. The ceramic coating helps keep the heat in the tubes, increasing exhaust velocity. Which is best is a personal choice. They all make about the same gains. You also forgot about the Z1 shorty's. They make about the same power.

Which ever you choose. Remove the O2 sensors first! DO NOT USE an impact gun on them. The right side will take you about 1.5 hours, counting beer breaks. The left side will take you 6+ hours and lots of cussing. It's best to move the manifold and down pipe together as one. This way, you don't have to mess with the demon bolts. :eek: Solder the wire extension together for the O2 sensors. Don't cheap out here.

Been there, done that! :eek:

Lol Rusty I've seen your advice for the lth's and it cracks me up every time i read it. I definitely don't plan on cheaping out either. I've also read a lot of mixed reviews on the z1 shorties so wasn't sure about them. Definitely gonna try to get everything on at once then a tune.

I hate to see someone jump into something that they're not prepared for. I figure if I use some humor. It will stick. :eek: When doing the left side on mine. Removing the heat shield was a big pain in the asss. My hands looked like they was in a fight with a BIG putty-cat and lost. All of the bolt ends and screw ends are sticking out in that area. Think I left some of my skin on everyone of them. :shakes head:

Not sure of gains, as I didn't do before and after runs (installation and tuning were in different places). Also, didn't coated them.

But I felt a lot of torque in low-mid rpm.

Get ceramic coating done. Reduced under hood temps, increased scavenging, protects the metal, and looks better.

Worth the money for gains, none are. For NA all offer little more gains then test pipes but cost $1000 extra or more. IMO these are only worth the money if you have a supercharger.

Ceramic coatings help reduce engine bay heat but are easy to damage, IMO a heat wrap is much more effective but not as nice looking.

I totally agree! I bought the F1 LTH. But I am trying to stay NA for now and later get supercharger. Not sure on Motordyne but I wasn't impressed with their intake when used with the LTH and don't waste your money on the PPE. They are cheap and worthless at least from my research when looking at LTH. After a tune I had nice gains for HP and Torque. One of the best IMO of the add ons for NA. But they are pricey.

In regards to PPE, maybe I was confused with the knock offs. I discussed with my mechanic friends and he agreed to stay away but to each their own


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It's called the law of diminishing returns. You out long tubes and tube on a stock Nismo and make 30+who, all of a sudden it seems like a great deal. Add it in to a full bolt on car and make 10, not so much. So the argument doesn't make sense when you actually look into it.

Maybe I am mistaken your audience as my comment but I agree with diminishing returns. LTH which remove the highly restrictive cats does make a nice gain. As far as motordyne intake I lost power with it and instead ported the upper and lower stock manifolds and improved performance over motordyne. I also added cold air intakes and that had a nice gain then added EPS throttle bodies and gained again with better throttle response. My situation is not budget worthy tho. This is my hobby and what I throw away money into :)


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I also agree with coating them. Anything to help keep the Z cooler is better. I mean **** we already have to add an oil cooler just to get to the track.

I'm going to +1 with rusty on the fact that the driver side sucks all the **** not as much space like the passanger side. That side wasn't bad at all. as far as the demon cat bolts i did my headers when i only had 5k ish miles on the car so they came off without too much headache, so i lucked out there. I had an RC hobby shop extend my O2 sensors so didn't have to worry much. I went with fast intentions LTH and wrapped them myself. Yes there is a little bit of rasp but I've learned to get used to it. won't have that issue anymore once my turbos are on:tup:

http://www.the370z.com/members/mclov...ure97691-a.jpg

I'm currently running a Motordyne Shockwave catback w/ Stillen Gen 3 intakes. Motordyne long tube headers is next in line. Still debating whether to go resonated or non resonated. Thoughts?

Resonated will mean less drone in car, I converted from non-res hfc to lth with res, the drone went down with them and the car isn't very noisy at lower speeds, compared to the hfc

Do you have any videos of how your car sounds with the 12" resonator and LTH. Are you the one that had the in car view while at the track?

Yep, that was me. :driving: