Hfc
 

If you are thinking about getting them BEWARE. First the 2 demon bolts were to tough so I went to a muffler shop. Three hrs later with a torch and spray both loosened w/o busting. Then I had a seized oxygen sensor so add that crazy $200 to cost and half your day is shot and the final cost comes to $570. I am not happy with the very small sound improvement. Did not seem to be worth the bother.:ugh2:

mine was free

did it in my garage

4hrs

I spent at least 20 hours trying to take off the demon bolts to install ART pipes. Stripped 2 bolt extractors and broke a breaker bar. Ended up going to a shop, which took them 4 days to remove the demon bolts costing me about $330. :(

how many miles your z has plays a big part here

along with the correct tools

:iagree: absolutely need the right tools. From what I've seen and heard, the u-joint impact swivels work best.

Miles of course increase the rust and corrosion of the demon bolts. But I've heard of guys with less than 2K miles having to torch the fuckin things to get them off. The best thing you can do, no matter what the mileage, is
PB Blaster the hell out of it. And I don't mean use a whole can of the stuff in one sitting - I mean you need to put the car up on jack stands 3+ days before the install day. PB Blaster the bolts liberally every day at least a couple of times. This will go a loooooong way towards helping defeat those wretched demon bolts. Unfortunately, this isn't an option for everyone.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...ps3leeigcs.jpg

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...pshlbwxjvj.jpg

For all who run into this and other related problems that warrant replaceing the O2's, whether Upstream (pre-cat, in OEM headers) and Downstream (in -- technically post-- cat) O2 sensors:

https://www.stockwiseauto.com/denso-...an&Model=370Z&

https://www.stockwiseauto.com/denso-...PAQ&ymm_gid=2&

Other O2's that will work... Nissan 370Z Oxygen Sensor - O2 Sensor - Walker Denso Bosch Delphi NGK Spectra Premium - 2009 2014 2010 2012 09 14 10 12 - PartsGeek.com

Densos are recommended -- in general, cheaper than buying from Nissan, and you can shop around if you know what you are looking for ;)

The owner said the HKS sensors had more problems. I had not done enough research and got caught under his word. I thought maybe $80. So everyone beware.:ugh2:

Yeesh -- that's a PITA. Glad you have it on now!

Besides sounding better, you also definitely picked up some decent power gains -- even without a tune.

Did it come with de-foulers (downstream O2 bung extenders)? That would be the only lingering concern.

Either way, if you get a CEL, you can try adding yet another set of extenders to it, a filter (such as steel wool), or will need a tune.

Also, if you do happen to get a CEL, make sure to get the actual DTC value, as it could turn out to be something weird like a damaged wire instead of the sensor itself. In this case, I think you'd still be better off replacing the sensor, but its always good to know exactly what has gone wrong (as best as possible) to minimize trial and error.

Why I waited for the O2 part, the mechanic brought me out and welded another bracket on to hold it better. Used HFC did not come w/ extenders. So far no CEL light just some smell coming into the cabin but its gone now. The car seems louder up front over 3000 rpm and a little deeper. maybe better throttle response too.:driving:

I have a brand new set of Berk HFCs sitting in my garage waiting for install. I plan to do them myself. My car has been garaged for the majority of my ownership. I'm the original owner and it only has 17,000 miles on it (it's an 09). It has only been driven in the rain about 6 times and never in the snow or when the roads were salted. I purchased a long breaker bar, the correct sockets, PB Blaster and an O2 sensor wrench. I've also been told to NOT use an impact wrench. Thanks for the suggestion of using PB Blaster several days in advance. I've never heard of anyone referring to the bolts as "demon bolts" before. Im not exactly looking forward to the install, but i wasnt concerend about it. Should I be worried?

I used an impact wrench I just made sure to remove the o2 sensors first. PB blaster or liquid wrench (a lot of it) and let it sit for a few days. My experience removing them was easier than removing the cat-back. Took about 4 hours with the proper tools at hand. When I swapped to test-pipes, it took like 3 hours with a crap selection of tools.

One thing that helped A LOT was removing the intakes and using a shitload of socket extensions and a swivel joint going in from the engine bay

I forgot to mention that I have 5 long socket extentions as well as a swivel, so I should be good to go there. I was also planning to remove the sensors prior to messing with the bolts.

For the demon bolts I used PB Blaster the day before, day of, and used a normal 1/2" ratchet; only had the back of the car on rhino ramps. Tugged (think impact wrench on/off) very hard with my arm straight similar to a dead lift and each one popped loose then unscrewed normally. I also use the dead lift reference because it felt like I was pulling over 300 lbs.

2013 Sport with 45K miles in a very wet/humid climate.

If anything be wary of replacing the headers. Albeit not many folks have problems doing this you do tend to play Russian roulette when upgrading this part. I got a pair of stillen headers that were "defective" on the driver side where the steering shaft lies. I didn't know they were defective until the install because the steering shaft would bang into the header every time I made a right turn. Luckily stillen was kind enough to honor the warranty and they sent me a another pair. But the labor of installing the header twice was just not worth the minimal HP gain they gave me.

I guess it pays to play.


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