Test Pipe vs HFC
 

Hello All,

Still new to the game so any insight is greatly appreciated. Currently running a stock system. Looking to pick up CAI and True Dual Exhaust System. Both from AAM. But which is better? Test Pipes? or HFC?

Looking to go FI eventually but the above mentioned will be the only mods for a while. Also this is going to be a daily driver for the time being. Again any info is greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Both are illegal in CA.

This I know.. But I would still like more info on it.


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Test pipes are generally cheaper but will be more raspy/loud. Both will net you similar power gains and both may throw a CEL. I wouldn't classify either as "better" but IMO, I prefer to minimize rasp as much as possible so I'd go with HFCs.

TP's will be louder and gain you more power over HFC

depends on what you are looking for sound and power wise.

if you want both to increase then go TP's it's really the only way to go.

BC & TP - thanks for the info.. Is there anyway around the CEL coming on?


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fast intentions products will not throw a CEL and if they do they will work with you to make it right.

40k miles on my FI TP/CBE set up and not one issue ever nor a CEL.

most CEL's come from incorrect installation where the O2 sensors get beat aroudn or wires stretched then the CEL comes up.

Certain TPs/HFCs will come with extended 02 bungs to minimize CEL risk. You can also have the car tuned via Uprev/ECUtek to have it not look for the CEL. I've heard of all kinds of TPs/HFCs either getting one or not so its kinda a crap shoot.

So essentially if I get the system installed at the stealership I should be fine?

If I did the installation at home.. And went to tune would that help? Trying to save on cost of possible.


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Looking at the AAM system


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i know with having my own uprev cable i can go in check the codes and clear them if needed. but since my tune i've never had a need to use it. no codes.

I'd stay away from dealership install, especially being in Cali.

I'll have to look into that.. How much did yours cost if you don't mind me asking.


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I know.. I just paid a fortune for AC and fluid flush. :(


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nooooo stay away from dealerships. also i dont think many would install aftermarket parts that essentially can void the warranty and are illegal per the states law.

installation is pretty simple aside from the dreaded nissan demon bolt.

if you add full exhaust and intakes a tune is a big help. it not only maximizes the power but typically those mods together tend to lean out the fuel mixture and could possibly cause an issue.

Best advice I can give you is to check the local section here and find some people in LA or wherever it is you live. Being in SoCal, you'll have no short of Z groups to find. Check out some local meets and get a feel for the sounds of the exhaust. You can also find help with installs and pick other people's brains on certain things.

Nissan "demon" bolt?!? Lol I guess I'm going to be in for it.

Yeah I plan on doing a tune.. Need to start looking for a place in so cal.


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I'll be sure to look into that. Thanks for the advice


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i'd go with an FI setup. sadly the current wait is 10-12 weeks but i've seen a few systems used pop up recently which helps you with saving some money.

my tune in general or the cable?

i think it was like $500 "used" for the tuner kit cable w/ the license on it. it was like 4 or 5 years ago so i could be wrong but it was around there.

each header to Cat is a tri flange so 3 bolts. top bolt on passenger side (for most) is the demon bolt. it's a total fuckin pain to get off.

i got an extra kick in the balls with the drivers top bolt being a pain as well.

FP - I'll have to look into the tuner. I'll have my brother in law help me with the installation. Thanks for all the info!!


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most places where you go to get a tune sell you the license in the price of the tune itself.

i however was uneducated 3 weeks into owning my Z and bought a tuner kit w/ cable and the license when really i dont need it.

is it nice to have the ability to do datalogs, code checks and clears, etc....yea but i dont ever use it lol

it'll be $300 for the license and typically $300 for the dyno time and tune so ~$600 total for a dyno tune. unless you go ecutek over uprev then i'm not sure how that license is priced but dyno/labor should run the same.

I guess I'm in your shoes when you first started. I really appreciate all the info.. So with the initial tune they give me a license and I can go back as needed? Does that mean I just pay for labor in the future?


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yea the license goes onto your ECU and stays. going back to a retune is different depending on your tuner. i would assume paying for the dyno time is all they'd ask but i am not experienced with ever having a retune done.

the license is yours once purchased.

also in the end i'm glad i bought my cable because the intakes i have are much larger than ones on the makret and required a whole new MAF mapping to get it to run. the company sent me the map, used the cable, drove the next day to my tuner lol thats a very odd situation though and wont happen to 99% of other people.

For the most part as I've said this is going to be it for a while.. So assuming that.. And getting a tune done correctly the first time around.. It might be moot to get a tuning cable right? Even if I did get it I don't know where I would start when using it. Lol


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yes it's pretty much pointless if the plan is to throw on exhaust and intakes, get tune, then wait awhile for boost.

just go get your exhaust first since the stock Z sounds super weak.
then go add intakes.
then get it tuned.

then :driving:

So I have a confession.. Sometimes I can be an impulse buyer.. Soooo.. I already picked up the AAM system before asking the question.. I was just trying to figure out if I should swap out the Test Pipe for the HFC.. but from what it seems like I think I'll be alright with the Test Pipes.


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So I have the AAM midpipe and short tail combo... Sounds amazing with the stock cats.
I added resonated test pipes and it is extremely loud. It gets a little rough between 3500 and 4500rpm and starts to clean up the sound afterwards. So this is just an FYI if you decide to run something similar.

Just like FP was saying, you'll make more power with TP's. Do yourself a favor and buy resonated if you do go that route. The power difference is 3-5whp at most.

I recommend you get the muffler option... If you're going for their older true dual design, you should be fine either way :)

Which system and is it just a straight test pipe without resonators?

So I bought the AAM CAI, Test Pipes, and True Dual 3" pipes this morning.


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The "R-Line"


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:bowrofl: i like it.

if you're not too worried about the legality of the TP's being that you live in CA then i would go test pipes. i personally like the sound and they do unlock the most power from the engine. also be sure to check out specialityZ out by LA. the tuner there Seb is one of if not the best tuner for the Z

here's a bit of non-sense for you.

Ah, the 3" dual setup with opposing cannons off the back. Your $hits gonna be loud. If you can get resonated I'd shoot for it, if not, might as well try em out

i like this guy lol no fuckin around he just goes andpbuys car parts :bowrofl:

:tup:

Holy hell Batman!! That sh*t is loud! Lol


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Oops.. I forgot to mention they were the resonated test pipe.


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yes it is lol :tiphat:

i love it. i do have my carbon fiber mufflers on currently but it's just sitting in the garage until the weather warms back up. made a video like 2 weeks ago with the straight set-up but with the CF mufflers back on. pulled the car out when we had a random 60-ish degree feburary day lol just to move the fluids around then back to hibernation.

because Race Car? lol

Now the wait.. Thanks FP for all the info. I feel good about this purchase. Ill post some photos as soon as I get/install them.

exactly lol

:driving: