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Any chance the digital adjuster could be included if desired?
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Ummm Yeah...Apparently my random blindness kicked in.
Thx! |
Not a problem :)
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Just a bit of an update for everyone, looks like there was a bit of a disconnect between RL and I in regards to the units used. Our cars use a square wave signal and they had sent a sine wave unit. The new units will hopefully be on the way tonight and will be a direct swap. Once confirmed that the units are working 100%, the DIY will go up.
I would like to thank AK for his help, he has graciously extended this GB for another month since this month was a write off. Hope to have some good news for everyone waiting in the next week or so. |
Ok, bit of a thread necro. After hours of studying and playing with circuts, we finally have a design that we feel is going to work. Here is a little teaser.
370z RLTC We eventually turned up the launch control RPM and you could really hear the RL kicking in, and of course I did not record it properly... it will be on the next video lol I still want a bit more real world testing on this before I say its ready to go, but the future looks bright. |
The only downside to this system is you will want to use the launch control at every set of lights and burn way more fuel.
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james, I forgot to ask you yesterday when I saw you.
Hows this coming along? |
Ok, so I can officially say that this is working!!!!
Some things to note, we needed to get a custom chip set made for our wheelspeed sensors. I am hoping to get them for less than $200 each, there are 5 chips in total. I will need to get an accurate list of interested people before I can get actual pricing. This chip set makes this system incredibly easy to install now. A quick guide to install: 1) insert one of 4 small chips inline with each wheelspeed sensor 2) these four chips are then wired (unshielded) to another single chip 3) this single chip is then wired to the racelogic 4) run the injectors wires from the racelogic to the patch harness 5) run the clutch wire from the racelogic to the patch harness 6) run the rpm wire from the racelogic to the patch harness. You then run a 10k resistor from the rpm wire to a 12v source. 7) hook up the powers, grounds, run wiring, ect... 8) enjoy This whole install could be done in 3-4 hours if you are decent with wiring. I will make a much more detailed install guide if this continues If you are still interested, please reply to this thread. I need serious replies please. If there is enough interest, I will contact AK and restart the GB. I can get the canbus systems as well and it should be a lot easier to install. But since I do not have a canbus system on me I cannot say for sure. If you get the patch harness then you would in theory tap the high/low canbus wires along with the injectors. This would be more for the AT guys or people who do not want the no lift shift. For the MT guys, the above is currently the only way to get the no lift shift feature on the racelogic....and yes, it is worth it. |
I'm in, 100%.
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For us auto guys, does getting launch control make any difference, since we don't have a clutch to drop?
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Sent from my SGH-T889V using Tapatalk 2 |
I might be in. I would like more details on the actual installation (chip set business) and pricing.
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The 4 small chips are around the size of a dime. The main chip is roughly the size of two quarters. Let me know what else you would like to know. If this goes through, I will make it very hard to not install correctly. I have wire colors, pictures, ect... but I am not going to make a manual if there is no intrest. |
This might help you guys figure out what you want to do. lol. Took the car down to Montana and it worked flawlessly and I tested it out quite a few times. Nothing like feeling it pull around turns while it does its thing. It just sticks and goes. For you FI guys notice how you can hear the turbo spool even before the car launches, two stage rev limiters are the best.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...pse07cdbe0.jpg |
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