Radiator Cooling suggestions

JWillis72 · 01-30-2015, 12:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ckim64

There are several companies.

First off is CSF

Second is DRL

Home

Third is HPI

http://hpi.co.jp/evolve_z/index.html

It has a CSF triple pass in it now.

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JWillis72 · 01-30-2015, 12:42 PM

Driving the car today it for sure running cooler. Oil never got over 145 around town and I never turned the fans on. I turned the fans on for about a mile or two and dropped the temp 4 degrees. The radiator never got to 2 light left of center so it looks like it is working but I will know for sure in 4 weeks.

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theDreamer · 01-30-2015, 12:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JWillis72

Driving the car today it for sure running cooler. Oil never got over 145 around town and I never turned the fans on. I turned the fans on for about a mile or two and dropped the temp 4 degrees. The radiator never got to 2 light left of center so it looks like it is working but I will know for sure in 4 weeks.

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If you do not have a dedicated way to read the coolant temps, here is a nice guide I put together of what the dots mean.
Factory Coolant Gauge Readings

JWillis72 · 01-30-2015, 01:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by theDreamer

If you do not have a dedicated way to read the coolant temps, here is a nice guide I put together of what the dots mean.
Factory Coolant Gauge Readings

Thanks Dreamer! So it staying in the 149-152 range today and it used to stay in the 152-158 range. We pulled most of the Aquamist system out of the car so I now have a spot for a real temp gauge for it.

2011 Nismo#91 · 01-30-2015, 01:05 PM

Some quick thoughts:
1. Keep the heat in the exhaust. Thermal wrap everything that adds unnecessary heat to the engine bay.
2. Throw out as much of the plastic junk they you possible can from the engine bay.
3. Use a lower thermostat temp, valve will open sooner and delay higher temps.
X. Thinking out of the box, is a hood mandatory? If your not getting up to high speeds, smaller courses, then the aero doesn't matter so much.

JWillis72 · 01-30-2015, 01:13 PM

I run mostly Sebring and Homestead, they are far from slow or low speed. It's usually around 140 mph in the back straight of Sebring going into the U turn that is 17. I didn't do the hood for looks, it was the beginning of trying to keep a supercharger cool on the track and it made a huge improvement.

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bullitt5897 · 01-30-2015, 04:08 PM

I am running the SPAL fans and controllers from GTM... I will say they are loud as hell! And pull a lot of air!

JWillis72 · 01-30-2015, 04:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bullitt5897

I am running the SPAL fans and controllers from GTM... I will say they are loud as hell! And pull a lot of air!

That's what is on mine as well and they move some serious air.

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DR_ · 01-30-2015, 04:29 PM

Turn on your heater all the way up. It's like having a second radiator and helps a lot.

JWillis72 · 01-30-2015, 04:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DR_

Turn on your heater all the way up. It's like having a second radiator and helps a lot.

I did that last time and it helped a lot but in the Florida summers I might come out of the car well done.

DR_ · 01-30-2015, 10:18 PM

I don't track during the summer here in Texas. It is just too hard on the car.

JWillis72 · 01-31-2015, 10:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DR_

I don't track during the summer here in Texas. It is just too hard on the car.

It crazy but NASA doesn't do events in Florida from Nov-May, our best weather. They say not enough people show up plus in the cool weather is when all the big races/testing happen on our tracks so dates are hard to come by.

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DR_ · 02-04-2015, 03:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JWillis72

It crazy but NASA doesn't do events in Florida from Nov-May, our best weather. They say not enough people show up plus in the cool weather is when all the big races/testing happen on our tracks so dates are hard to come by.

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NASA Texas does an event here every August. It is just brutal.

Robert Yuras · 01-30-2015, 10:43 PM

I think you've done everything right. The only suggestions I'd have:

1. Add a 2nd oil cooler
2. Remove that stupid crash bar and install a tubular piece
3. Shroud the radiator to the nose
4. Wrap your exhaust!!!!! No heat out, no heat in

JWillis72 · 01-31-2015, 10:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Robert Yuras

I think you've done everything right. The only suggestions I'd have:

1. Add a 2nd oil cooler
2. Remove that stupid crash bar and install a tubular piece
3. Shroud the radiator to the nose
4. Wrap your exhaust!!!!! No heat out, no heat in

If it needs more all of those ideas will be in the next round of work.

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01-30-2015, 04:08 PM	#7 (permalink)
bullitt5897 Premium Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: North GA Posts: 6,831 Drives: Twin Turbo Z34 Rep Power: 3683	I am running the SPAL fans and controllers from GTM... I will say they are loud as hell! And pull a lot of air! __________________ *Shop Cars: 2013 318whp Nismo VspecII 370z SOLD, 2009 1000hp+ 93oct 4.0L TT 370z Fast Intentions STAGE 4 #054*

01-30-2015, 10:18 PM	#11 (permalink)
DR_ Track Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Dallas Posts: 981 Drives: Touring/Sport M6 PG Rep Power: 17	I don't track during the summer here in Texas. It is just too hard on the car. jwick likes this.

01-30-2015, 10:43 PM	#14 (permalink)
Robert Yuras Base Member Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: Texas Posts: 99 Drives: 2013 Nismo 370Z Rep Power: 11	Radiator Cooling suggestions I think you've done everything right. The only suggestions I'd have: 1. Add a 2nd oil cooler 2. Remove that stupid crash bar and install a tubular piece 3. Shroud the radiator to the nose 4. Wrap your exhaust!!!!! No heat out, no heat in Last edited by Robert Yuras; 01-30-2015 at 11:21 PM.

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01-30-2015, 12:42 PM	#2 (permalink)
JWillis72 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Fort Myers FL Posts: 2,002 Drives: 2009 370Z yellow 7AT Rep Power: 45	Driving the car today it for sure running cooler. Oil never got over 145 around town and I never turned the fans on. I turned the fans on for about a mile or two and dropped the temp 4 degrees. The radiator never got to 2 light left of center so it looks like it is working but I will know for sure in 4 weeks. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

01-30-2015, 01:05 PM	#5 (permalink)
2011 Nismo#91 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: NJ Posts: 2,408 Drives: slowly Rep Power: 40570	Some quick thoughts: 1. Keep the heat in the exhaust. Thermal wrap everything that adds unnecessary heat to the engine bay. 2. Throw out as much of the plastic junk they you possible can from the engine bay. 3. Use a lower thermostat temp, valve will open sooner and delay higher temps. X. Thinking out of the box, is a hood mandatory? If your not getting up to high speeds, smaller courses, then the aero doesn't matter so much.

01-30-2015, 01:13 PM	#6 (permalink)
JWillis72 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Fort Myers FL Posts: 2,002 Drives: 2009 370Z yellow 7AT Rep Power: 45	I run mostly Sebring and Homestead, they are far from slow or low speed. It's usually around 140 mph in the back straight of Sebring going into the U turn that is 17. I didn't do the hood for looks, it was the beginning of trying to keep a supercharger cool on the track and it made a huge improvement. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

01-30-2015, 04:29 PM	#9 (permalink)
DR_ Track Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Dallas Posts: 981 Drives: Touring/Sport M6 PG Rep Power: 17	Turn on your heater all the way up. It's like having a second radiator and helps a lot.