Radiator Cooling suggestions

Boss_302 · 01-27-2015, 09:10 AM

Great minds think alike!

JWillis72 · 01-27-2015, 09:29 AM

10926386_776613899060798_2018797660545728962_n.jpg

I really like the new bumper so I hope I don't have to cut holes in it!

JWillis72 · 01-29-2015, 06:28 PM

It's done, I hope this solved it!

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SouthArk370Z · 01-29-2015, 06:31 PM

If nothing else, it sure looks good.

EliteXpress · 01-29-2015, 06:34 PM

Looks Great!

j-rho · 01-29-2015, 07:06 PM

You're making a lot of the right moves - distilled water + water wetter, and relocation of the auxillary coolers to the sides.

Fans are needed for the street and low speeds but on track they are restricting airflow/cooling. This is one area where the compromise of a street/track car comes into play.

If you still have an AC condensor in there, removing it (or getting a radiator without one integrated) will help.

You want the hood vent to open in the lowest pressure areas over the hood - and you also want a nice easy/smooth path for the air on the back side of the radiator to make it out that vent. Seems like from the factory the back of the radiator/fans are right up against the front of the motor. If you can lean the top of the radiator forward, and duct the backside up to the vent(s), should help. This is how it's done from the factory on Corvettes and Vipers. Another hood vent laterally in the middle, roughly aligned longitudinally with your forward-most existing vents, should give the hot post-radiator air the easiest path out.

Your boost cooler thing is pretty big and eating up all the prime airflow surface area. Some of the balancing act here may be giving up a little bit of that optimization (smaller size, or a more out-of the-way placement) for better coolant cooling. Since those are liquid lines and more line volume doesn't affect boost response (the way an air-air IC does) you might consider trying to place that whole thing somewhere way out back under the car.

Last thought would be increasing area inbound to the coolers with some holes in the yellow portion of the nose above the bumper beam (along with maybe trimming/removing the bumper beam) to allow for direct flow to the upper half of the radiator.

The factory has a lot of shrouding to direct all incoming air through the coolers - through your extent of mods, ensure you are taking steps to ensure you continue this practice. Air will take the easiest path to lower pressure, which will only be through a stack of coolers if you force it to be.

JWillis72 · 01-30-2015, 09:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by j-rho

You're making a lot of the right moves - distilled water + water wetter, and relocation of the auxillary coolers to the sides.

Fans are needed for the street and low speeds but on track they are restricting airflow/cooling. This is one area where the compromise of a street/track car comes into play.

If you still have an AC condensor in there, removing it (or getting a radiator without one integrated) will help.

You want the hood vent to open in the lowest pressure areas over the hood - and you also want a nice easy/smooth path for the air on the back side of the radiator to make it out that vent. Seems like from the factory the back of the radiator/fans are right up against the front of the motor. If you can lean the top of the radiator forward, and duct the backside up to the vent(s), should help. This is how it's done from the factory on Corvettes and Vipers. Another hood vent laterally in the middle, roughly aligned longitudinally with your forward-most existing vents, should give the hot post-radiator air the easiest path out.

Your boost cooler thing is pretty big and eating up all the prime airflow surface area. Some of the balancing act here may be giving up a little bit of that optimization (smaller size, or a more out-of the-way placement) for better coolant cooling. Since those are liquid lines and more line volume doesn't affect boost response (the way an air-air IC does) you might consider trying to place that whole thing somewhere way out back under the car.

Last thought would be increasing area inbound to the coolers with some holes in the yellow portion of the nose above the bumper beam (along with maybe trimming/removing the bumper beam) to allow for direct flow to the upper half of the radiator.

The factory has a lot of shrouding to direct all incoming air through the coolers - through your extent of mods, ensure you are taking steps to ensure you continue this practice. Air will take the easiest path to lower pressure, which will only be through a stack of coolers if you force it to be.

Thanks or the ideas, if this doesn't fix it we will move on to some of these ideas. I'm taking it to Homestead again in 4 weeks so I will know then if it needs more work. The car does have A/C but I drive the car to the track and live in south Florida so thats not coming out.

swiss370Z · 01-30-2015, 10:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JWillis72

It's done, I hope this solved it!

Looks great Sir!

YzGyz · 01-30-2015, 01:05 PM

Car looks nice. I think some NISMO side skirts and it will be done!

YzGyz

theDreamer · 01-30-2015, 01:09 PM

Something I just thought of looking through your photos.
Heat wrapping your pipes & thermal coating for your intercooler & radiator, small change but can help keep heat out of the pipes and keep temps down.

ckim64 · 01-30-2015, 01:16 PM

There are several companies.
First off is CSF
Second is DRL
Home
Third is HPI
http://hpi.co.jp/evolve_z/index.html

theDreamer · 01-30-2015, 01:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ckim64

There are several companies.
First off is CSF
Second is DRL
Home
Third is HPI
http://hpi.co.jp/evolve_z/index.html

He already has an upgraded radiator.

JWillis72 · 01-30-2015, 01:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by theDreamer

Something I just thought of looking through your photos.
Heat wrapping your pipes & thermal coating for your intercooler & radiator, small change but can help keep heat out of the pipes and keep temps down.

We talked heat wrapping the pipes today when I picked it up. In not aware of the coating for the cooler and radiator, does it make them cool faster?

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theDreamer · 01-30-2015, 01:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JWillis72

We talked heat wrapping the pipes today when I picked it up. In not aware of the coating for the cooler and radiator, does it make them cool faster?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I used this company in Houston: Performance coatings by Polydyn
They did my intercooler & intake pipes, the coating is designed to keep heat out and reduce the transfer into the pipe. For the intercooler this means lower temps, same for the pipes in the engine bay.

JWillis72 · 01-30-2015, 01:42 PM

Driving the car today it for sure running cooler. Oil never got over 145 around town and I never turned the fans on. I turned the fans on for about a mile or two and dropped the temp 4 degrees. The radiator never got to 2 light left of center so it looks like it is working but I will know for sure in 4 weeks.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

01-27-2015, 09:10 AM	#31 (permalink)
Boss_302 Base Member Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: NY NY Posts: 150 Drives: 11 Nissan 370z S Mt Rep Power: 12	Great minds think alike! JWillis72 likes this.

01-27-2015, 09:29 AM	#32 (permalink)
JWillis72 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Fort Myers FL Posts: 2,002 Drives: 2009 370Z yellow 7AT Rep Power: 45	10926386_776613899060798_2018797660545728962_n.jpg I really like the new bumper so I hope I don't have to cut holes in it! swiss370Z and YzGyz like this.

01-29-2015, 06:28 PM	#33 (permalink)
JWillis72 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Fort Myers FL Posts: 2,002 Drives: 2009 370Z yellow 7AT Rep Power: 45	It's done, I hope this solved it! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk DR_, swiss370Z and guru like this.

01-29-2015, 06:31 PM	#34 (permalink)
SouthArk370Z Premium Member Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: South Arkansas Posts: 8,435 Drives: 2014 Challenger Rep Power: 324198	If nothing else, it sure looks good. JWillis72 likes this. __________________ Steering Lock Links - Search The370Z Bookmarklet - FSM @ NICOclub Mankind has progressed past the need for war but we haven't evolved that far. - NachoMahma

01-29-2015, 06:34 PM	#35 (permalink)
EliteXpress Base Member Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: Katy Posts: 238 Drives: '16 370z 6MT Rep Power: 11	Looks Great! JWillis72 likes this.

01-29-2015, 07:06 PM	#36 (permalink)
j-rho Base Member Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: San Diego Posts: 154 Drives: 1967 Camaro Z28 Rep Power: 11	You're making a lot of the right moves - distilled water + water wetter, and relocation of the auxillary coolers to the sides. Fans are needed for the street and low speeds but on track they are restricting airflow/cooling. This is one area where the compromise of a street/track car comes into play. If you still have an AC condensor in there, removing it (or getting a radiator without one integrated) will help. You want the hood vent to open in the lowest pressure areas over the hood - and you also want a nice easy/smooth path for the air on the back side of the radiator to make it out that vent. Seems like from the factory the back of the radiator/fans are right up against the front of the motor. If you can lean the top of the radiator forward, and duct the backside up to the vent(s), should help. This is how it's done from the factory on Corvettes and Vipers. Another hood vent laterally in the middle, roughly aligned longitudinally with your forward-most existing vents, should give the hot post-radiator air the easiest path out. Your boost cooler thing is pretty big and eating up all the prime airflow surface area. Some of the balancing act here may be giving up a little bit of that optimization (smaller size, or a more out-of the-way placement) for better coolant cooling. Since those are liquid lines and more line volume doesn't affect boost response (the way an air-air IC does) you might consider trying to place that whole thing somewhere way out back under the car. Last thought would be increasing area inbound to the coolers with some holes in the yellow portion of the nose above the bumper beam (along with maybe trimming/removing the bumper beam) to allow for direct flow to the upper half of the radiator. The factory has a lot of shrouding to direct all incoming air through the coolers - through your extent of mods, ensure you are taking steps to ensure you continue this practice. Air will take the easiest path to lower pressure, which will only be through a stack of coolers if you force it to be.

01-30-2015, 01:05 PM	#39 (permalink)
YzGyz A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Houston Posts: 1,449 Drives: 2010 Nismo Rep Power: 63	Car looks nice. I think some NISMO side skirts and it will be done! YzGyz JWillis72 likes this. __________________ http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...gyzs-turn.html YzGyz

01-30-2015, 01:09 PM	#40 (permalink)
theDreamer A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Texas Posts: 30,879 Drives: 370z Rep Power: 4210	Something I just thought of looking through your photos. Heat wrapping your pipes & thermal coating for your intercooler & radiator, small change but can help keep heat out of the pipes and keep temps down. __________________ theDreamer's Z // Fast Intentions // Uprev // GTM // HKS // TEIN theDreamer's Silvia // URAS // GREDDY Houston Zs // Facebook // Twitter // Instagram

01-30-2015, 01:16 PM	#41 (permalink)
ckim64 Base Member Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Playboy Mansion Posts: 191 Drives: Hyundai 370Z Rep Power: 12	There are several companies. First off is CSF Second is DRL Home Third is HPI http://hpi.co.jp/evolve_z/index.html

01-30-2015, 01:42 PM	#45 (permalink)
JWillis72 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Fort Myers FL Posts: 2,002 Drives: 2009 370Z yellow 7AT Rep Power: 45	Driving the car today it for sure running cooler. Oil never got over 145 around town and I never turned the fans on. I turned the fans on for about a mile or two and dropped the temp 4 degrees. The radiator never got to 2 light left of center so it looks like it is working but I will know for sure in 4 weeks. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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