SC & Z1 oil cooler + stillen AT cooler

brutusvk

Well, that sucked. Went into limp mode on the freeway. Throwing a throttle position sensor code. Stopped by the shop. He is contacting Stillen and Uprev to see if they have some ideas. I think there may be a short somewhere. Maybe a short in the harness extension? Dunno.

It is at the stereo shop anyways. I am sure it will get squared away soon enough. Glad I have other vehicles!

JWillis72

My car had a problem at first where it would go into some safe mode a go way rich but only if I let off the gas at high speeds. It was caused the lower MAF getting air through it when the upper MAF didn't. We tested it by sticking a large piece of cardboard in front of the filter and it went away. We made a larger sheet metal air deflector and it all stooped. I don't recall what code it was giving but it might be worth checking, it was a cheap fix but had us stumped for a while.

brutusvk

Stillen spoke to the tuner today. It looks like they have the solution. I hope so!

Nut_N_Much

Nothing wrong with mounting the 34 row oil cooler behind the intake. Reverse the brackets and it will recess into toward the radiator. Fits fine next to the heat exchanger. Don't mess with the powersteering cooler no need to . The pump for the water goes on the right side in front of the fender well. Houses run under the frame rail and into the water tank.

Take 2 pieces of aluminum and make your self a bracket. Hange it off the side of the aluminum bumper. attach your trans cooler there. I have one but dont have pictures of it.
Check out GTM site for brackets if you need to buy some. Or use images as template.

__________________

Did new cool science stuff to the car !!!
http://www.the370z.com/mazoc/99606-z...y-14-17-a.html
http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...-w-videos.html

brutusvk

We got it squared away. Need one more tweak in the tuning and she is done. Thanks for the help though.

Nut_N_Much

Most likely will have to test the ohms in the TB plugs. When they installed the extension wires sometimes it changes the ohms and causes the ECU to go limp. I did that to mine, i found the issue and used matco diagnostic computer to re-sync the TB's. Ran like a charm.

He is right about the shield for the intake. Direct air causes positive pressure and throws the ECU into a tail spin. A piece of sheet metal bolted to the bumper will deflect the direct air and wont cause positive pressure. It happens because the MAF sensor is so close to the air filter. Also don't over oil the K&Ns it will effect the MAFs.

Ran rich all the way to the tuner before the MAP was loaded.

__________________

Did new cool science stuff to the car !!!
http://www.the370z.com/mazoc/99606-z...y-14-17-a.html
http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...-w-videos.html

brutusvk

We have a deflector installed. (actually two) I saw an earlier thead about that.

The info about the throttle body I sent to the tuner. This is the first I had heard of this. He is going to work on that next time I go by the shop. As always, thanks for the info!

brutusvk

Been an annoying few weeks. The tech at the shop screwed up my brakes. Got that fixed. The. My car threw a new code P1233. It is still an issue with the extention cable for the throttle body we suspect.

On a positive note. Found the clunk. The strut brace was hitting the throttle body occasionally. Fixed that. Got the spacers and pilot super sports. Looks great.

brutusvk

Can someone tell me the procedure for sync'ing the throttle bodies? I would like to try that before moving forward. I could not find it anywhere online.

ANMVQ

Here ya go man

Fyi, here is the TB reset procedure.

How to reset your ECU and perform the Throttle Pedal Release and Idle Air Volume Learning procedures on an Infiniti G35 and the Nissan 350Z.

Before attempting any of the following procedures, it is advisable that you read through the instructions thoroughly and familiarize yourself with them.

A stop watch or an analog clock with a second’s needle will be useful.
**a quick reset can be accomplished by disconnecting the negative battery terminal, and depressing the brake a few times.

ECU Resetting Procedures

Timing is extremely critical. If it is NOT DONE within the specify time, the ECU will not reset and the Check Engine Light (CEL) will continue to remain ON.

Operations Procedures

1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.
4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)
5. Wait about 10 second.
6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).
8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone.
If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU.

Accelerator Pedal Release Position Learning
Operation Procedure

1. Make sure that the accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
3. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
4. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
5. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.

Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning
Operation Procedures

1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch to “ON”.
3. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
Make sure that the throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound.

Idle Air Volume Learning (Throttle Position Learning)

It is better to count the time accurately with a clock.

1. Perform “Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning”.
2. Perform “Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning”.
3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
4. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
5. Confirm that the accelerator pedal is fully released, then turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
6. Repeat the following (steps 7a, 7b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
7a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD)
7b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the Check Engine Light (CEL) stops blinking and turned ON.
9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the CEL is ON.
10. Start engine and let it idle.
11. Wait 20 seconds.
12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure the idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications.

__________________
14 Q50 AWD, ARK, ECUTEK (SEB), Takda,

brutusvk

Thank you. Most appreciated.

ANMVQ

No problem man

__________________
14 Q50 AWD, ARK, ECUTEK (SEB), Takda,

EliteXpress

Doing the ECU Resetting Procedures, will this effect the UpRev Tune?

brutusvk

No. Only a reflash will.

I have a new cable on the way. The sync did not fix the problem.

brutusvk

Replaced the cable today. Looks like Stiilen made sure I got a good one. None of the wires were bent at all. So far, seems to have fixed the problem.