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According to page EC-608 of the 2009 FSM: At idling : Approximately 350 kPa (3.57 kg/cm2, 51 psi)
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According to page EC-608 of the 2009 FSM:
At idling : Approximately 350 kPa (3.57 kg/cm2, 51 psi)
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Hey Jordo,
Thanks for the info. I do have uprev and my shop of choice will be RAD or Vinny Ten Racing. So I shouldn't worry about a fuel pressure safety switch. One less thing I have to wire. I'm taking my time and trying to get as educated as I can during the process. The car is away for the winter, unless there are some odd warm days, I don't think the car will see the road after the tune and dyno. I don't plan on spraying all over town, so use will be on the low side. I'm not sure of the average amount of shots you get from a 10lb bottle. I'm sure I'm getting on the annoying side with all my post, but I don't want to have a catastrophic failure. What I would like is to be able to skip first and second gear, I know there is a way to do it so if any one has some insight on that I would really appreciate it. ![]()
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Unless they strongly urge you to use the shut off valve, I'd just see if they can have your "nitrous tune" aggressively pull timing if there's any sign of knock. If knock sensor response gets too sensitive, you can always dial less sensitivity in (hell, you can probably have a "regular", "sensitive knock detect" and "ultra sensitive knock detect" map, the latter two for, say winter vs. summer. As to the gear issue -- are you looking to start in a higher gear for traction? Have you looked into a launch controller?
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If not, you'd need something like this -- maybe exactly this: http://www.jegs.com/InstallationInst.../249-82085.pdf.
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Dump all the PDFs into a folder then tell your reader to search all documents in that folder. In Adobe Reader it's Edit:Advanced Search. I did that and used "fuel pressure" as the search string.
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