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-   -   Another DIY Twin Turbo kit (COMP oil-less turbos) (http://www.the370z.com/forced-induction/98318-another-diy-twin-turbo-kit-comp-oil-less-turbos.html)

thangcu35 11-18-2014 07:08 PM

Another DIY Twin Turbo kit (COMP oil-less turbos)
 
Hi, I'm relatively a new member here. I bought my 2012 Sport/Tour/Nav 370z back in May 2014 and I've pulled the trigger to make my own twin turbo kit. I've been building engines/turbo kits for a couple of cars that I've owned in the past. I'm also a seasonal tuner that have experience with AEM EMS, Haltech, Power FC, Megasquirt and now most recently Uprev. What inspired me to make my own instead of purchasing a kit for the Z is due to a few reasons. First, I do not wish to remove my engine to install/remove the turbos. I will make an extention to the OEM manifolds and mount the turbos in OEM cats location. The 2nd reason is that I want to retain the factory crash bar. I'm aware that GTM is among the few company that offers a kit to retain the factory crash bar, however their reputation has been FUBAR. The 3rd reason is that I can TIG weld (amateur level) and I enjoy working on my own car.

Here is the project car with 2014 Nismo converted theme.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-m...o/DSC01876.JPG

Some of the parts I have collected. Thanks BBRspeedworks for the custom SS 3 bolt flanges.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-U...o/IMG_0199.JPG

After careful consideration, I've decided to use COMP oil-less turbos (equilvalent to GTX2863r) 430bhp. This is my first time using these oil-less turbos, but I've only seen good results from them. The cartridge is internally lubricated with a special type of grease and require no source of oil. This allows me to mount the turbo at any level and any where that I can squeeze it in. It is water cooled (mandatory), and has a grease fitting that can be use to re-grease every 3000-5000 miles (oil change intervals).

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-2...o/IMG_0204.JPG


They machine Garrett turbine housing to fit their turbine wheels.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6...o/IMG_0206.JPG


Grease fitting to be use with any grease gun.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-4...o/IMG_0203.JPG


https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-a...o/IMG_0207.JPG


My goal for this build is 500-550whp daily driveable on pump gas, full boost before 3.3k rpm, and fun instant response. The turbos will be easily serviceable, and routing will work with any cat back exhaust.

The rundown:

- Stock VQ37
- Uprev tuner
- Comp oil-less billet turbos, .64AR turbine, compressor rated for 430hp.
- Treadstone's high density IC cores 12.5"x6"x3.5" support up to 500hp each.
- All stainless construction, 11g thick tubing.
- Internal wastegates set at 10psi (save space and cost vs external)
- 2" pre IC piping, 2.75" post IC piping, high rise MAF adapter
- Synchronic R35V BOV
- 850cc Bosch EV14 PnP injectors
- Aeromotive 340lph fuel pump + CJM install kit, stock returnless

Currently my car drives on Zspeed CSC, Southbend flywheel, Exedy pressure plate, and ACT 6 pucks. Yes, this is a very complicated clutch setup, but I want the most reliable/softest performance pressure plate for driving comfort. The pedal feels almost stock like but it grips like a mad mother. This has to be my favorite combination in any car I've driven.

Once I'm done welding up the IC cores, I can work on mounting the turbos. I managed to get uprev running great on 850cc injectors, but a full retune is in order once I upgrade to 2.75" MAF piping along with the bigger fuel pump. Stay tuned.

SlowZ 11-18-2014 07:38 PM

Subbed. Looking good already

SPOHN 11-18-2014 07:43 PM

Subbed

TerribleONE 11-18-2014 07:48 PM

Subd! Curious to see how this turns out

SwissCheese 11-18-2014 08:58 PM

Sub'd. Good luck with everything!

40th_z 11-18-2014 09:01 PM

Subd :tup:

Japanjay 11-18-2014 09:48 PM

Out of curiosity, you are running a turbo rated at 430bhp and shooting for 500-550wheel? Wont the turbo fall on its face, cant flow enough? Whats the compressor map look like?

Boost_lee 11-18-2014 10:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Japanjay (Post 3034517)
Out of curiosity, you are running a turbo rated at 430bhp and shooting for 500-550wheel? Wont the turbo fall on its face, cant flow enough? Whats the compressor map look like?

430hp x2 :tup:

thangcu35 11-18-2014 10:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Japanjay (Post 3034517)
Out of curiosity, you are running a turbo rated at 430bhp and shooting for 500-550wheel? Wont the turbo fall on its face, cant flow enough? Whats the compressor map look like?

430hp per turbo, I'm running twins which combine to approx 850hp. These turbos will make 600whp on pump gas easily, and 700+whp on E85. The inducer is 47mm and exducer 63mm, same specs as the GTX2863r. The main difference is that it's a billet 7+7 blade wheel verses Garrett's billet 11+0 wheel. I specifically want the 7+7 because it has better efficiency when running at lower pressure ratio.



I had some time this evening to finish up on the intercoolers. Not the prettiest welds since this is my 2nd time welding aluminum but I made sure the welds are leak proof.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_...58629267_n.jpg

BBRSpeedWorks 11-18-2014 10:46 PM

hey man no problem. i hope you liked them...and let me know if theres anything else you need.. good luck with your build man....Pm me if you need anytime

Rusty 11-19-2014 12:57 AM

Question on the turbo's. When you grease them. Where does the old grease go to. Does the housing have a plug that you remove for the grease to come out of? Or does it come out of the shaft seals?

When welding aluminum. Make sure that there is no dirt or oil/grease on the joint. It's got to be clean. When you are done. Are you pressure testing the welds? Checking for leaks with Leak Check or soapy water?

I'm an old TIG welder. :D

thangcu35 11-19-2014 05:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty (Post 3034569)
Question on the turbo's. When you grease them. Where does the old grease go to. Does the housing have a plug that you remove for the grease to come out of? Or does it come out of the shaft seals?

When welding aluminum. Make sure that there is no dirt or oil/grease on the joint. It's got to be clean. When you are done. Are you pressure testing the welds? Checking for leaks with Leak Check or soapy water?

I'm an old TIG welder. :D

Thanks for the great advices. Ill be pressure testing them using one of the turbo leak tester and submerge the ic under water.

Regarding the turbo, i also asked the comp turbo tech that same question. They told me that it does evaporate very slowly (didnt specify through where). They said every 3000-5000 miles just use a grease gun and pump about 3-4 times and thats more than enough to keep it full. The grease fitting looks like its removable.

Tadpole 11-19-2014 05:46 AM

Sub'd.

Rusty 11-19-2014 06:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thangcu35 (Post 3034593)
Thanks for the great advices. Ill be pressure testing them using one of the turbo leak tester and submerge the ic under water.

Regarding the turbo, i also asked the comp turbo tech that same question. They told me that it does evaporate very slowly (didnt specify through where). They said every 3000-5000 miles just use a grease gun and pump about 3-4 times and thats more than enough to keep it full. The grease fitting looks like its removable.

A lot of the equipment I work on has a grease fitting on one side and a plug on the other side. Remove the plug and grease through the fitting. When grease comes out of the plug hole. You're done. Run equipment until it gets hot with the plug remove. Shut down and install plug. This way no grease is being forced past the seals when the grease gets hot. Also I never knew that grease evaporates. It just turns to wax with heat in my experience. ;)

Wish you luck with your project. Can't wait to see it come to life. :tup:

6MT-Z34 11-19-2014 07:18 AM

Nice!! but your missing the gray mirrors for your '14 theme lol jp...sweet looking car and best of luck with your build, keep us updated!:tup:

Boosted Performance 11-19-2014 09:22 AM

Looking forward to this build...I think I know exactly how this will be plumbed (I have done the same on a VQ35DE a long time ago).

The only thing I would do differently is the selection of the turbine housings. You will find that the .64 T25's have a very low flow limit. They will be efficient (EBP less than 2:1) up to 500whp, but after that they will become a bit of a restriction.

I also talked to the guys at COMP at SEMA a couple of weeks ago about the greasing of these turbos. And like Rusty, I had the same questions, where does the grease go. I thought that 3-4 pumps of grease is actually a lot for such a small centre section. If I was to guess, I would have thought 1-2 pump worth of grease per oil change would have been sufficient.

Nixlimited 11-19-2014 05:35 PM

Look forward to seeing results of another homebrew kit.

vividracing 11-19-2014 05:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thangcu35 (Post 3034527)
this is my 2nd time welding aluminum but I made sure the welds are leak proof.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_...58629267_n.jpg

They look pretty good to me for only being your second time. Nice job :tup:

thangcu35 11-19-2014 06:29 PM

Thanks! I'm working on a steady hand for more consistent beads.

Nothing too crazy today, got some time to test fit the intercooler and plumbing. I'm going to bring out the front crash bar by 1/4" using aluminum spacers to give the IC some more room to play with. Currently the 3.5" core barely fits in between the crash bar and radiator support. I'm thinking of mounting the IC with the bolt holes circled in red. It's too bad that I have to do my work outside since the one car garage is currently occupied by the welder and tools. Winter is going to kick my *** real soon.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/mS...=w1113-h835-no

I'm still thinking of where to relocate the powersteering cooler to.

thangcu35 11-22-2014 12:24 PM

It's a good day out so I've gotten more progress. Figured out how to relocate the OEM powersteering cooler without making any major mod. I simply switched the OEM brackets around and that allows me to place the cooler inside toward the AC condenser out of the way of the IC. Extended the lines with 3/8 hose and refilled powersteering with DEX VII ATF.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-2...o/IMG_0264.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-2...o/IMG_0268.JPG


I also got the IC brackets welded on.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Y_...=w1251-h835-no


Got all the post-IC pipings sorted out. Still need to weld on MAF adapter and BOV flange.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-m...o/IMG_0289.JPG


Test fit front bumper

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-x...SizeRender.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-J...o/IMG_0280.JPG

Rusty 11-22-2014 01:12 PM

Where you putting the oil cooler at?

thangcu35 11-22-2014 03:12 PM

If i decide on adding one, ill put it behind the right IC. Do i need one if the car is not going to be tracked?

Rusty 11-22-2014 03:26 PM

Yea you do. With the heat from the extra power, and where you live. A 34 row unit.

Luciano13 11-23-2014 04:05 PM

Sub'D for everything!!!

TerribleONE 11-23-2014 04:14 PM

Oil cooler is a must!

swiss370Z 11-24-2014 12:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TerribleONE (Post 3038006)
Oil cooler is a must!

I'm only supercharged
But is "A MUST" :tup:

Luciano13 11-24-2014 03:14 PM

:iagree:

jwick 11-24-2014 03:48 PM

:iagree:

I'll jump on the cooler bandwagon. I can spike oil temps 30deg just with a few good boosted pulls on the freeway. That's with an oil pan spacer and 30 row cooler. Temps max out around 210-215degC so no high heat issues but I can only imagine the temps I'd see without the cooler and 8.5qrts of oil cycling.

1slow370 11-24-2014 04:07 PM

well he may have a slight difference in oil temps due to not having oil circulated through his turbos. but yeah the car still needs at least a small cooler.

Edit: Except mine I need to remove my cooler. Dry sump + 12.5qts

elperuano 11-24-2014 04:50 PM

^ what kinda kit you running?

Luciano13 11-24-2014 06:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by elperuano (Post 3039118)
^ what kinda kit you running?

:iagree: what are you working with:tiphat:

thangcu35 11-24-2014 09:53 PM

I will definitely go with a 30+ rows thermostatic cooler eventually. Looks like there will be no update from me for a week since I will be out of town. Happy early Thanksgiving everyone :hello:

esfourteen 11-24-2014 11:04 PM

25 row was more than sufficient on my old TT setup, mounted behind IC, but I had a mishimoto radiator which helped. I never saw oil temps over 220 under any conditions

phunk 11-24-2014 11:49 PM

I like your intercooler setup and piping. That's very similar to the direction I am going with my new configuration. Looking good.

jwick 11-25-2014 07:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by elperuano (Post 3039118)
^ what kinda kit you running?

If you are referring to 1slow370, he's not running any FI kit. He went a different route and built a NA monster. Currently holds the record for non-FI HP. Although he probably could have went FI and it'd been cheaper:rofl2:

konsta 11-25-2014 09:15 AM

Sub'd, looking forward to this

thangcu35 11-28-2014 03:59 PM

Got a chance to drive through Stone Mountain park in Georgia and snapped a couple of pictures.

http://i1380.photobucket.com/albums/...pstv6rcewc.jpg

http://i1380.photobucket.com/albums/...psdzhvnk7u.jpg

http://i1380.photobucket.com/albums/...psvske0cxu.jpg

TerribleONE 11-28-2014 04:02 PM

Nice!

phunk 11-28-2014 05:01 PM

So wait you are all done???

thangcu35 11-28-2014 05:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phunk (Post 3042820)
So wait you are all done???

Not quite. I wanted to visit my family in Georgia so I removed the intercoolers and kept my charge pipes to run G3 intake style. I had to do a retune for the 2.75" maf but it wasnt too hard.


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