BOOSTED have you ever measure the temperatures before the inter-cooler?

It seems to me that most of these turbo love a pressure ratio of 15psi at the 500hp to 600hp range.

Low pressure ratios (1.6 or near 10psi) at 500hp to 600hp seem to be operating in the low efficeincy areas of the compressor maps.

Perhaps I may be missing something.

Can you share the compressor maps you're looking at?

http://www.himni-racing.com/images/gt3582rcomp_e.jpg

I tried using a gt3582 which is a common turbo for this size engine but looking at the maps
this does not seem a suitable match at pressure ratios of 1.6 and high flows (500 to 600hp)

The gt40 seems a better match

http://www.himni-racing.com/images/gt4088r_comp_e.jpg

Seems like the low pressure high flow is really not the best for efficiency.

http://www.himni-racing.com/images/gt4294r_comp_e.jpg


Perhaps this is all theory but something does not seem right when operating at low pressure ratios.

The 6266 turbo is very comparable to the GT40 turbo as far as flow goes, however Precision does not have compressor maps available for their turbos for a fair comparison. The 62mm Precision is rated to flow 72lbs/min. I would compare the GTX compressor maps, and not the older cast compressor wheel turbos.

These engines have a very high VE and large turbines are a must...did all the EBP testing to confirm.

Also, a GT35 turbo is too small for this engine because it only comes with a T3 turbine housing...which would be the same issue for any other smaller turbos on the marker. This means that the 6266 is the best option for this engine on the market by default, since it is the only mid size turbo available in a T4 configuration.

EDIT: I should add that these turbos would be happier and more efficient in the 15-20psi range, at 600-640WHP.

BOOSTED

I want your kit but cannot afford it. Two blow off valves, two waste gates does not reduce cost either.

Would the below fit. This should reduce/simplify plumbing and also parts cost. The blow off valves integrated in the
compressor housing.

From left bank and right bank directly into turbo. No waste-gate frabrication, no blow off valve fabrication.

May be this could be a more affordable option for guys like me.


http://www.vmax-performance.de/shop/...es/18516_1.jpg

Couple comments;
- There's only one BOV on the charge pipe, right before the FMIC. Earlier versions had two, but now it only comes with one.
- I highly recommend against an internally gated turbo considering where the turbo sits
- Last, and not trying to offend you, but if you can't afford the kit the way it comes, then boosting your Z is probably not a good idea. You always need emergency funding when boosting a NA car.

Not to mention that proper supporting mods will almost cost as much as the kit.

The kit as it sits IS the affordable turbo option.

Why? It may hit something?

I doubt you'd have room for the actuator. Honestly, I can't imagine ANY situation where an internally gated turbo is preferable unless it's cost. And that's not a good enough reason to hamstring yourself with an internal.

Yes and Chuck's reasoning

:iagree:

Perhaps you should do some research on that turbo especially in relation to the the design of the internal gate. I wanted to dismiss the internal waste gate concept as well.

That turbo could be the best thing since sliced bread, but good luck getting a turbo with an internal wastegate actuator and built in bypass valve to fit without replumbing a lot of the kit.

As far as I know, the EFR turbo is $2,400, and if you want the internal wastegate on a T4 twin scroll turbine it is another $400, which brings you to $2,800.

The internal wastegate is also only available with the T3 twin scroll turbine and the smallest a/r T4 twin scroll turbine, which means it would not work well with the VHR car, as the turbine is too small in both cases.

So even with the large 9180, with a properly sized turbine, you still need two wastegates.

Discussion is good.

This a pretty well engineered kit given the space restrictions. I notice that torque does not drop off drastically like some other kits.

I was just looking at possible cost effective areas to make it less complex and more tempting to a larger number of persons.

Having all the piping fabricated seems like a good idea. instead of fabrication from scratch each time.

You have the turbine side well matched. A compressor speed sensor along with pressure ratios could shed a lot of light on the compressor side.

I have a right hand drive HR and I am still looking for a cost effective single turbo application. I guess this is the same for the rest of the world.

Why does the new kit come with one bov as opposed to the two in the first batch? How's the loudness compared to the first and second kit?