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The standard V1 kit did not come with powder coated charge piping it was unfinished. The powder coating started after the intercooler
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#1 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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The standard V1 kit did not come with powder coated charge piping it was unfinished. The powder coating started after the intercooler
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#2 (permalink) | |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Well I got my kit used so don't hurt me haha
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R/T Built motor, wiseco 9:1 Pistons, Eagle H-beam rods, ARP L-19| BP kit, PTE 6766, EPS 70mm TB, GTR Intake, PRS lower conversion| ID1000cc, CJM Twin pump 340&255, PRS Rails, CJM fuel return| Fast Intentions| R/T Tuned, 660WHP 596WTQ at 18lbs. 93 octane |
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#5 (permalink) | |
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![]() Read this sticky. 370z Forced Induction for Noobs... YzGyz Last edited by YzGyz; 12-11-2014 at 04:52 AM. |
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#6 (permalink) | |
A True Z Fanatic
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BP Pros: - You can install it in your garage on jack stands - A single turbo makes more torque than a TT - With a twin scroll divided housing you hardly notice any spool difference - Everything you need, except a basic tool set, is included with the purchase of the kit - Pulling the turbo is pretty simple and can be done in less than an hour, probably more like 30 mins Cons: - A scavenge pump is required since turbo sits at the same level as the oil pan so gravity draining is not possible - Turbo is low - The secondary PCV system is vented causing a slight hiccup in the idle when coming to a complete stop. - Only available for MT - Have to drop the turbo cross piping to change the tranny fluid (highly recommend adding a transmission fluid change at time of install. Use synthetic so you don't have to worry about it for awhile) TT Pros: - Turbos are located like the factory would have installed them - No scavenge pump cuz the turbos gravity feed - Power curve is likely slightly easier on the engine than the ST because the torque comes on a little more gradually - Keeps the stock PCV system - Transmission type doesn't matter, the kit will fit. (assumes you ignore the power restrictions the AT has without serious upgrades) Cons: - Basically have to drop the motor to install - Unlike the BP kit, most people will need a shop to install the TT - Won't come with everything to install - Turbo upgrade requires you to drop the motor again |
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#7 (permalink) | |
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Is that really the case ?
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#8 (permalink) | |
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#9 (permalink) | |
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YzGyz |
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#10 (permalink) | |
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#11 (permalink) |
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As an aside. Mine is installed and up and running. You are more welcome to ask me any specific questions or I'd be willing to let you check out the car. it's currently at the shop for the V1.5 piping retune but I should have it back next week.
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#12 (permalink) |
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Good comparison write up Jwick!
The only one I am curious about is the hiccup at idle you speak of. I have never noticed it. Not saying it isn't there, just never noticed it. One thing you left out is price. The ST will cost a couple thousand less than twins.
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#13 (permalink) | |
A True Z Fanatic
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The idle hiccup is something that I thought all the guys that eliminated the PCV system were having. I know Mitch, Gale and I have had long discussions about it. If you aren't having it I'd be real interested to understand what your tuner did to eliminate it. It was part of my base map (R/T Tuning), my custom tune and Mitch has it and he tunes himself. Basically when I come up to a stop light/sign and a complete stop the car will drop a couple hundred RPMS, go way lean (16-17 AFR) and then pretty rich (12-13), then it stabilizes itself. |
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#14 (permalink) |
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Thanks man. I followed your build and I was super impressed with your install. I'll definitely be doing more research. My only concerns are is I'm not the most mechanically inclined when it comes to cars and this is the only car I have, so I'd need to do the install all in one sitting.
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#15 (permalink) | |
A True Z Fanatic
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If you don't get carried away with electronic gauges and boost controller, this project could be knocked out in a long weekend. We did it in two but I kind of went crazy with electronics and heat management. |
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