Heat that bitch up with a heat gun and it slides right on :tup:

Just be careful not to melt it:rofl2:

Gale is the source :tup:

Worked with me to make serial number 001 for a G :D

Thanks to the existing customers for chiming in, and explaining their experience.

I am here, and do read all the posts. It is good for the new/potential customers see the feedback from existing customer on the process/install. It is hard for me to tell you new guys about the install process because it is very easy for me. I have engineered the kit, and can do the install quickly, mainly because I don't need to go to the manual at any point for anything.

As mentioned earlier, the V 2.0 (and V 1.5) is considerably easier to install due to turbo clocking and not having to mess around with the first coupler in a very tight spot. The IC piping is very easy to get at and install.

You guys already know the price of the kit, but I always say that there will be additional upgrades needed. This is standard for all forced induction kits:

Clutch/Flywheel
Boost gauge
A/F monitoring and gauge
Pod for all the gauges
Exhaust (unless you have it upgraded already)
Boost controller (not a must, but highly recommended)

The car will also need a custom tune. Believe it or not each car will run a bit different on the same tune. These cars/engines are not 100% the same...it is what it is.

If a shop is installing just the turbo kit, I don't think it should ever be more than $1,500...but then again, there are all the other upgrades that need to be budgeted for.

I'm not sure I know what I would do without this community of helpful people! I'm working feverishly to count my beans and make sure that I have plenty of padding before pulling the trigger, but I know I can't wait too long or I'll be crying.

Do u ever see these going for a lower price?

NO....:wtf2:

For a guy who claims to make so much money, you are obsessed with being as cheap as possible. Especially on the things you shouldn't be cheap on.

Currently stuck with my gtm tt kit but due to a crack in the drivers side exhaust manifold I'm now forced to go with another kit. No this isn't a gtm bashing but now trying to decide on which kit since there are many choices now.. I don't do much posting here but enjoy reading about many of the successful fi setups and kinda afraid of shelling out another 7-8k.. This sounds like an awesome kit..

This kit is so nice and user friendly to instal that I got mine used and the whole instal was a no brainer. Most cost effective kit you can buy and the quality rivals the big name company's. This kit speaks for itself. I was always set on TT and still do love TT set ups. But this kit performs just as good as a TT and makes everything about it easier and better for the user. Whether it's the instal or simply maintenance this kit in my opinion is way better. I couldn't be happier with anythin else. Sasha knows what he's doing and makes a top of the line product while also keeping quality and his loyal followers happy.
Thanks Sasha for such a great product!!!

P.S. My boost addiction keeps getting worse!!! Might have to check myself into rehab haha.:excited:

My GTM TT kit that I sold had both manifolds crack driver side was the worse. You can't go wrong with the BP kit simple kit but so effective is a win win.

Just to give you guys an update on the fabrication of the V 2.0 kits....

I have taken two weeks off for Christmas, and that will give me a lot of time to get things done. All the down pipes are built, the Y-pipes for the F.I exhaust guys are 75% built, and the manifolds are at about 75% as well. Recirculation section for the wastegates still need to be worked on, as well as the intercooler piping.

All the brackets are done, as are the ports on the oil pans, oil lines are custom built and on the way in.

So, I am still on track for shipping everything out by the end of January.

There are 5 kits still available.

Also, I will have 4 V 1.5 turbo kits available as well very soon. The only difference between the V 2.0 and V 1.5 is the turbo compressor cover. Everything else is the same. The V 1.5 kits will work with the 6266 (700HP) and the 6766 (935HP) turbos. Everything else between those two version is the same.

And the pan spacer ports are now welded:

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...psjwqppvyf.jpg

Awesome, time for me to ask the boss for time off in feb.


Yzgyz

More boosted brothers on the way :happydance:

:iagree:.....:happydance:

Hey Sasha, Im sure this has been covered, but whats the price to convert my V1 to a V1.5? Im trying to get rid of some oil lines and simplify things more. That and I have a leak from my oil filter adaptor.... Probably user based but Ill get a better idea soon when I remove it to take a peek. Hopefully lol. Its leaking from the main bolt from the center. Anyway, you can PM me if you don't want to cluster this thread. Thanks!

Does anyone know if we can re-use the manifold gaskets once they have been put on then taken off?

I wouldn't recommend it. Those triangle flanges are notorious enough for leaking. It would suck to have to drop the entire kit again just for a leak.

Where do I get new ones from? Besides from sasha.

Z1, ZSpeed, Concept Z Performance...

http://www.zspeedperformance.com/Ber...1407gasket.htm

http://www.z1motorsports.com/g37_370...oducts_id=6448

https://conceptzperformance.com/Cart...on.php?II=4180

The last ones you linked are the ones I use (Berk makes them). They are better than the metal ones, as these will compress, and metal ones won't (as much), making a better seal.

Also, if the old ones are in good shape (no burns anywhere) then they should be fine to re-use torquing the bolts in stages.

My test pipes are on with just ultra copper. No leaks for 3+ years. When I had asked FI for new ones they told me to use the stuff.

Whatever you do stay away from the copper ones! They didnt seal very good if at all.

They left a little of the gasket itself on the manifold and we had to scrape it off.

Replace for sure then. You don't want to go through the whole built more path and then deal with exhaust leaks.

I got the Berks that Sasha recommended, Overnighted. Ill actually have my car running this weekend.

What does everyone recommend for break in of a new motor?

Some type of break-in fluids and baby it like you would a new clutch for 500ish miles. No cruise control and try not to stay at a consistent speed for prolonged periods.

WOT for 10 minutes down the straightest piece of highway you can find! lol Im not one for taking it to easy on it. But I do agree with no constant rpm speed. City driving it on a lower boost tune is probably what I would do.

A lot of people believe in that method too :tup:

Ive never had enough control to stay out of the go pedal. Has never let me down once tho. I dunno. I say the big thing you want to make sure you do is change the oil after a short while a few times as the breakin will have more contaminants than usual. I wouldn't think twice about driving it hard on a low boost tune, i mean if the engine can't take that then she sure as heck is not going to hold together down the road.

Lol I dont even think I was nice on my second clutch. I think I went to the track that weekend it went in.

Manifold Monday???:

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...psfent8iks.jpg

Y-pipes for all those with the F.I exhaust system:

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps2jlw5ynd.jpg

Down pipes in two sections, tomorrow they will be joined by a flex couplers:

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...psaq95vsoq.jpg

I will be working on these kits for the rest of this week, and hope to have everything very close to complete.

Manifolds need header flanges and the wastegate tubes welded
Y-pipes need the flanges welded on
Down pipes need flanges welded
Re-circulation tubes still need to be fabricated

Next couple of weekends will be dedicated to FMIC piping, but that weill go much quicker than the stainless/exhaust portion.

Some white guys yelled at me (so I'm telling!!! j/P). They said I should wrap my hot pipes and give my turbo a blanket. I had originally planned for this but read that wrapping can cause cracks in the piping. Once they are cracked, it's going to be just about impossible to find the crack unless you take all the wrapping off, which you will probably never do unless it was a big leak and you suspect a crack. I though wrapping was a damn good idea until I read about the crack and decided against it. Well, that and it hides the shiny pipes. I originally planed to wrap because it "was a good" safety measure to melted lines, dried wires and much more. Now I don't know.

In your honest opinion, do you think it is worth it? If so, what side bag do I need for this new snail? I can find the $$ to buy the stuff if it's recommended.

Thanks
YzGyz

has anyone installed the kit on a nismo with the stock nismo exhaust?

I just wrapped all mine. I had it on before with nothing wrapped. It actually gets really hot by your feet with all that heat in that area. Living in a hotter climate I'm sure only makes this worse. It also will hold in those hot gasses and give you "slightly" better spool. And again it does help to keep wires and vac lines from melting, which I have done in the past also.

I have heard of it cracking pipe also but I have never heard of a BP kit having cracked from the wrap. Time will tell I guess. However, Sasha now uses heavier gauge steel for the hot piping. So if mine ever cracks, Ill be upgrading to the new manifold.

I will speak directly from experience....

This exact kit has been on my car for 3 years now, and I have never melted anything, or have had any heat related issues. The two test mule cars have had the kits on for a couple of years as well, combining for about 40,000 miles, including some very hard driving...never had a heat related issue. (Well, one did, but it was due to not securing the transmission harness nice and high after a clutch install)

I believe if the instructions are followed, there should never be an issue with anything. The wastegate tubing is high quality silicone with a temperature rating of 450*F, so unless it is a couple of inches away from manifold, it will be fine. The transmission harness is tucked up as well, and far away from the heat...so again, I can' see it melting at all.

If it is in the budget, wrapping things does not hurt, and is not a bad idea, because keeping the exhaust gases hot is beneficial.

For those that are looking at adding a turbo blanket, and wrapping the manifold, let me know. I can send out a turbo blanket and some wrap.

A 2000*F turbo blanket would be around $70 and 60' of 2" wrap would be about $50.



The down pipe would not bolt up, you would have to do a bit of custom exhaust...not much though. Probably $200 at a shop that works with stainless.


I assume that when you say by the feet, you are talking about the passenger side, where the turbine is? That is the closest thing to the under side of the car.

And yes, the new manifolds are built of very heavy stainless pipe, not tubing. I don't think there should ever be an issue with cracking, especially the way I weld them.

Right on! Pmed for the blanky and wrap. Where do I get the strip to tie it down at? I want extra of that.

Yzgyz

Don't use the ties they give you with the wrap. Buy a roll of safety wire and safety wire pliers.

Safety wire is the only way to go when wrapping. Leaves it nice and clean and much easier to work with

I can send stainless zip ties.

Spent a couple of days working on the IC pipes. Today I finished welding 16 sets of 3" charge pipes (showing only driver side here):

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...pskcl3hhdj.jpg

These are going to be dropped off at the machine shop for MAF sensor slots to be milled in. Once that is done, MAF sensor housings will be welded. Hopefully the machine shop can get them done by Thursday nigh...so I can take all the IC pipes to the powder coater on Friday.

I am now waiting for some flanges (3-bolt) for the manifolds, 20 wastegates and a bunch of BOV's. Once those come in, the respected flanges will be welded as well. Hope to see those at the end of this week.

Other than that things are moving along nicely.

There is two V 2.0 kits, and 4 V 1.5 still left/available.