My tuner loves the Wolf products. Don't think you can go wrong with either. Just make sure the Wolf is rated for 550ft-lbs or better

Thanks. I appreciate it! I've heard a lot of good things regarding the Wolf combo. Many members here seem to like the Z1 also.

If you hassle to pull the trigger on BP kit, this one may help ;)

my 370z with BP kit vs BMW M5 vs Lexus ISF vs Mercedes C63 AMG

That is awesome. Can you share how much power you're making ?

Cool but street race on a non street race forum = fail? (damn that looks fun though!! So ready for it!)

YzGyz

^This is the forced induction forum. What were u expecting? Dyno queens or sumthin?:gtfo2:

And stay tune, there will be more :). It was my previous setup without built engine, now the car is like a beast :)

Just curious if anyone is running FI long tubes with this turbo set up,and if so,what are the benefits of doing so? To me,it would make sense that you would make better power off less boost because of better exhaust flow. Am I right to assume this? I'm also assuming that there is no modification to make the header work with boosted' turbo set up as the header is a strait up bolt on.
I'm looking in to going fi. I was going to go full bolt on,but I did that on my last platform and although I enjoyed the extra power overall,the amount I paid to go that route,I could of bought a one off turbo setup almost. Want the bigger bang for my buck!

Nobody is because it's not possible. The turbo manifold (cross-over pipe) or whatever you want to call it bolt up to the OEM style header triangle flanges.

As for bang for your buck. FI is not a cheap option. I was completely NA full bolt on for under $3k with tune. I have $12-13k in turbo setup and that includes already having a $1200CBE.

I see the 566whp in your thread at 13psi, assuming that is the built motor. What power level were you running on the stock block?

Ahh,so for the header question,there would have to be some custom cabbing then. As for the money spent,I'm fully aware that it is not cheap to go the fi route. Would you say the money you spent was because you had to spend that amount,or because once you popped,you couldn't stop?
Judging from what I've been reading up on,what your at cost wise sounds about right. If I can get away with spending around 12 k,then I'm "all aboard" with going boosted. With all the good talk about the quality,good customer service and being pretty much hassle free,if a guy is going fi,it's a no brainer on this set up. Of course I'll be doing more homework,but I like what I see so far!

There's no question. You can't run long tube headers with this kit. It's a non-starter.

What we said :tup:

I believe the money I spent was required. You should never cut corners when boosting a NA factory car.

- Kit - $8k
- Clutch/FW/HD CSC - $1500-2000
- Radiator - $600
- Gauges - $500
- Misc Heat Management/Tools/Etc - $1000
- Tune - $600-700

So there's roughly $12.5k with zero allowance for any labor. Also keep in mind that you need to keep a cushion ($5-7k) for the, 'my motor let go fund'.

That just handles the go. You still haven't touch the handling and stopping portions of the car.

Most of us that have gone down this rabbit hole are looking in the rearview mirror at $20k invested.