The thought or question rather just came to mind. What color are the silicone hoses, couplers, and eels? Are they black, red or blue?
My engine cover is red so it would be nice to have a matching red.


YzGyz

Mine are all black

Thanks Jwick

Black would be preferred if a matching red was not available. It will keep the stealth look instead of flow with red color scheme.

YzGyz

Here's a pic of my engine bay just so you know what the couplers look like.

http://i1155.photobucket.com/albums/...ps4aa0f451.jpg

I can look in to this, and see if my supplier has all the sizes needed in red.

How much is it to powdercoat the charge pipes? I would want them to look OEM-ish lol

They come powdercoated now. It's the same crinkly black stuff that's on the intake piping.

I am sure Jwick has 4879 of his posts in Boosted threads, lol everytime I look through my subscripted thread and its bumped up to the top it shows you as the last poster!

haha time to demand a Job as Boosted Performance Industries! hahah :p

Sasha did mention I was vying for a job but I told him he probably couldn't afford me or my boost monkey:tup::rofl2:

Wow this kit just keeps getting better and better

I have a V1 kit and the charge pipes came powder coated the wrinkle black like jwick was saying.

Boosted Performance V 2.0 turbo list
 

The standard V1 kit did not come with powder coated charge piping it was unfinished. The powder coating started after the intercooler

Case and point! :p hahaha

Well I got my kit used so don't hurt me haha :stirthepot:

FI noob here. What are the pros and cons of a TT set up vs this one?

You get to join the Houston BP group? :tiphat:

Read this sticky.
http://www.the370z.com/forced-induct...ion-noobs.html

YzGyz

Here's a start of a list for you. Some of the items listed below are my opinion and not necessarily FACT. I won't point out which ones. I'll let the guys debate...

BP
Pros:
- You can install it in your garage on jack stands
- A single turbo makes more torque than a TT
- With a twin scroll divided housing you hardly notice any spool difference
- Everything you need, except a basic tool set, is included with the purchase of the kit
- Pulling the turbo is pretty simple and can be done in less than an hour, probably more like 30 mins

Cons:
- A scavenge pump is required since turbo sits at the same level as the oil pan so gravity draining is not possible
- Turbo is low
- The secondary PCV system is vented causing a slight hiccup in the idle when coming to a complete stop.
- Only available for MT
- Have to drop the turbo cross piping to change the tranny fluid (highly recommend adding a transmission fluid change at time of install. Use synthetic so you don't have to worry about it for awhile)

TT
Pros:
- Turbos are located like the factory would have installed them
- No scavenge pump cuz the turbos gravity feed
- Power curve is likely slightly easier on the engine than the ST because the torque comes on a little more gradually
- Keeps the stock PCV system
- Transmission type doesn't matter, the kit will fit. (assumes you ignore the power restrictions the AT has without serious upgrades)

Cons:
- Basically have to drop the motor to install
- Unlike the BP kit, most people will need a shop to install the TT
- Won't come with everything to install
- Turbo upgrade requires you to drop the motor again

As an aside. Mine is installed and up and running. You are more welcome to ask me any specific questions or I'd be willing to let you check out the car. it's currently at the shop for the V1.5 piping retune but I should have it back next week.

Good comparison write up Jwick!

The only one I am curious about is the hiccup at idle you speak of. I have never noticed it. Not saying it isn't there, just never noticed it.

One thing you left out is price. The ST will cost a couple thousand less than twins.

This is pretty interesting to me... let me explain. I spoke with BP about a kit and thought my gosh the price is great. Then I got ahold of a place to install and tune and it was the same cost as the kit itself. That being the case I thought 15k was pretty steep to drop for FI, knowing that if money is at all a concern I shouldn't mess with it. That being said, your explaination sure makes it sound like I can spend the 7k and have this knocked out in my garage within a week and be up and running... pending a tune.

Is that really the case ?

Add in the cost for a clutch (and a csc and flywheel since you're in there), gauges, tune, boost controller, probably a radiator (add in the cost to recharge the ac system after install), an exhaust if you don't have one, etc. A FI kit is never the total cost. Budget 3-5k for supporting mods and tune.

Yes and no. He only commented on the turbo kit. He did not mention the upgrades to keep everything running. These upgrade are technically the same for any FI or big HP/TQ modding. Sure you can get your car up and running with just the kit. But, who reliable is the car as a whole? How well will it perform? How long the current set up will last are questionable.

YzGyz

I think I'm making the right decision then to hold off until I have another 5k or so saved up so I can just send it off and have everything done at once. I reallllly want FI but I'm not willing to short cut anywhere.

In the meantime I suppose I'll dump some cash into some NA mods, understanding there is little room to grow and I'll end up reselling most of them, but it will keep me happy until I find the end of the rainbow.

Spend the money on the suspension. It'll scratch the modding itch and it won't be wasted money.

Good point. There is a couple thousand savings with a ST kit.

The idle hiccup is something that I thought all the guys that eliminated the PCV system were having. I know Mitch, Gale and I have had long discussions about it. If you aren't having it I'd be real interested to understand what your tuner did to eliminate it. It was part of my base map (R/T Tuning), my custom tune and Mitch has it and he tunes himself. Basically when I come up to a stop light/sign and a complete stop the car will drop a couple hundred RPMS, go way lean (16-17 AFR) and then pretty rich (12-13), then it stabilizes itself.

The shop you talked to is extremely high on install cost. I can't see why a shop would charge more than 10-12 hrs of shop labor, so $1200-1500.

However, Yes you can have this kit installed in a week. Its a beautiful thing. You don't NEED a new clutch, radiator, etc...

You know its crazy how HP has gotten lately. I remember in the 350z era when we made 400whp we were all going crazy, and it was awesome! Fast and fun. Now it seems if your not making 500+ its sub par...lol..

What I am getting at is that if he wants to go with the kit and some gauges that really is all you need if your ok with 7lbs of boost and taking it from 230whp to 400! Still is an insane increase. Then when you get the itch...and you will... get a better clutch and supporting mods for whatever you need. Guys are putting 450 to the stock clutch. ALTHOUGH, I wouldn't trust the csc at all.

Maybe its my E85 tune that tuned it out. Not sure. But I had that hiccup really bad with my old Utec EMS. It was annoying.

I am also on ID1000's. Could be something there as well.

Are hot starts an issue at all? Does it take a bit more cranking?

No starting issues at all. I'm convinced that the ECU is expecting crankcase gases to be recycled into the intake. By venting that PCV I think it stumbles slightly expecting a little bit of rich air that doesn't come in. Of course it could be the other direction and when the crank case goes high vacuum it sucks in a bunch of unmetered air. I'm grasping at straws and I'm not a tuner :tup:

It's very minor these days but it's still there. My idle cleaned up a ton when I pull the post-cat O2s complete out.

Are you able to keep the CEL cleared off after the O2 deletes?

It never showed up. Now in all fairness I've only been running that way for about 25-30 miles. I'm thinking my tuner removed that code when he tuned it.

I'd argue that. You're blocking off the factory radiator with an intercooler. It'll be seeing nothing but hot air now. Additional capacity is pretty necessary at that point. Water temps get hot on these cars. Also, given how much of the kit you'd have to remove to swap out a clutch, doing it before the kit goes on is the most cost-effective option if you're paying labor.

Sasha Z1 just released a new oil pan spacer that you might like! Check it out :)

Ummm....link?

http://i1325.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7w3qmbgr.png

Won't let me copy a link from fb but here's a screenshot

Chuck, I would argue that since I am in Colorado and we seldom see 90+ degree days. However, even in the dead of summer I never seen my temps rise very much at all, but then again im running a colder fuel. Houston on pump gas could be very different.

But.. I have honestly never seen a need for an aftermarket radiator, for street use, on any of my vehicles. I had a twin charged 350z making extreme under hood temps with the top mount supercharger and the top mount turbo along with not 1 but 2 intercoolers plugging the air flow. I can honestly say that I never seen my temp rise at all.

Now if you are going to be doing autocross or time attacks thats a different situation.

Are you talking water or oil temp? How are you monitoring water temp?

Water. In my 350 it was just the dashboard gauge. Now in my 370 im using torque with the obd dongle.

Oil did rise. I have a Defi oil temp.

Ok. I'm seeing 200-220 degree water temps as normal on stock Zs. That's higher than I'd like to see even before you stick an intercooler in front of the radiator.

If the shop quoted u around 7k for install and tune then you need another shop cuz that place is robbing you.