The base tune is from R/T Tuning and the car is Galeforce's. Not sure the location but Gale can confirm.

What issues are you having anyway?

Double check your wiring on the fuel pump?

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mine has trouble starting even after being tuned. More so on hot starts than cold starts. I just have to give it a little gas and it will start.

^^^ This unless Sasha had one redone since then. It has been a couple of years since I had mine done.

R/T Tuning is located in PA.

My cold start is fine. On hot starts it wont start unless i press the throttle very slightly. After its running though my idle is stable and everything seems fine, almost perfect.

I too had the same starting issues after my supercharger was installed and would say it's definitely in the tune. My tuner allow the car to cool completely, played with some values and the cold start and hot start issues were finally resolved.

My tuner would also let the car cool down a long time to ensure that we had cold start issues covered during the tune. I don't have any cold start issues.

Is this Bill with the map I just sent over? Sorry can't remember the user names on here.

The map is for 3" charge pipes, are your pipes 2.75"?

I personally have not had any issues with the base maps with e5 local installs. The maps I get are just like everybody else's, locked and non editable by me. It is odd to hear that some of you have.

Sasha -

Not my post. I should have this running in a few weeks. I'll let you know how it goes ...

Bill

Just wanted to pop in and say hello again to everyone. My car has been back up and running for about 3 or 4 weeks now thanks to R/T tuning. I just finished getting my "break in" mileage and I'm waiting for my CJM kit to arrive before I can go back for a retune and see what numbers it puts down..car still has the basic BP kit, but now with a built motor. Eagle H-beam rods, wiesco 9:1 Pistons, and ARP L-19 head studs. Can't wait to see what happens!!

congrats bro !

Thank you jay!

Ditto. Keep us posted

When I finally get my retune, I'm probably going to be pushing the limit of the basic kit. I'll probably max the injectors out first but we will see what happens. Give some numbers of how well this lot performs. Previous numbers were 554whp 491wtq at 12lbs.

You are definitely going to need 1000cc injectors.

I completely agree. Although Im going to give Vince a call to see what kind of duty cycle my current ones are at. If it's not too bad may just run them out. Who knows, a lot has been going on and a lot of money been going out the past few months. Haha

I'm upgrading to 1000cc, going to E85 and ecutek in the fall.

:eek:oh my lawd. Lol I wanna stay on 93. And maybe a 110 or c16 tune but that's a maybe. I don't want to strickly stay on e85 so that got ruled out for me. Definitely need to share your numbers lol

So I had Seb/Greg - load a Ecutek tune yesterday. And the first thing he noticed was my idle fuel pressure is 72 psi. And this might be causing an issue with the cranking tables. As hot start issue is still there, uggg.

But during a few of the base runs - they also noticed my fuel pressure at wot drops to 62 for a couple secs then it drops to around the 40 psi range. :confused:

8 psi got me to 478 hp/torque of 394 then did a 10 psi pull and it got me to 525 hp but it was lean - and unsafe - so they got me to back it down to 8 psi of boost. And that's where it stays until I find the issue with the fueling.

Seb/Greg recommended a fuel return system. So I know Jmac88 here does not run a return system, and he has no problems running with pressure loss.

And Mitco here does have a return system, and has had a couple fueling issues.

So how many of you guys have return systems? Do you guys think maybe I have a bad fuel pump?

It should be around 42 with the stock system at wot. I did notice that my pressures do fluctuate on a cold start with my return system though.

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I do not run one. My fuel pressure stay pretty rock solid expect at idle when it runs high.

You can fix the high idle pressure by doing the Venturi diameter drill out procedure in Phunks ultimate fuel pump thread.

58PSI at 0 psi of boost, and ~70ish at boost :D. My stock system was droppign into the 36-40 range stock. Now even with my Areomotive 340 my fuel pressure sits at an even 52-53PSI (I hooked it up to a 1:1 with a vac/boost source).

I drilled out my venturi as well.

I was very close to building my bottom end till I started to realize the only way I would really get to use it is if I was running race fuel or E85. I am pushing our 94 octane about as far as Ill ever get it, I mean you could lower the compression but I love the responsiveness of the engine out of boost and I wouldn't want to lose that. This kit now has 25,000miles on it and is still going strong.

Stock pressure is 52. It sounds like your fuel pump module was not properly modified to accommodate the larger fuel pump you have, and its causing a low load pressure spike. The regulator is unable to do its job during low fuel consumption. As fuel consumption increases pressure will come back down to the proper setting. Then it should hold there around 52 until you are maxing out fuel system and then pressure starts to drop again.

Do the idle pressure fix and that will solve your spikes. The return system will solve the drop on the top end.

A VVEL engine should really have the regulator hooked up to only a boost source, with no vacuum, before the throttle bodies. Its not the end of the world, but your closed loop cycle will be really struggling to keep A/Fs in check during steady load cruising.

So if we have a regulator open to atmosphere should we put it on a boost reference?

I know thats what you suggested, and I was going to swap it back (switched it to this when I was having all sorts of pressure issues) and there have been no ill effects at steady state the pressure stays even +- 1-2psi. If I start to have issues I will put it back. I never looked at my trims yet but when im do that will give me a better idea on what the system is doing.

You dont need to hook up the boost ref, and if you do you will need a retune because you will start to run very rich in boost if the car was tuned without it.

It wouldnt matter unless you run out of fuel... My 370z still has never had a line to the regulator, just 52psi pressure full time, even at 12 psi

The VVEL system will run the engine at as little as zero vacuum during steady state cruising. You fuel pressure will swing around about 10psi up and down if you are watching it at the right time. Whether it bothers you or not just depends on your expectations of the tune and its consistency. With a VVEL engine, manifold vacuum is not a consistent or linear measurement of engine load. With that relationship broken, the only way you can gain true repeat-ability of the fuel pressure is to take the vacuum out of the equation. It wont hurt the engine or even matter during full throttle... it would basically just be like a little gremlin sitting in your engine bay turning your fuel pressure up and down when cruising down the road.

Are you guys willing to sell the kit without the turbo/wg/bov? We have our own preference on turbo options and prefer Turbosmart to Tial items.

I still keep reading this hope there would be a solution for the auto guys. Great stuff tho.

There is, buy a manual...:stirthepot:

Phunk - so why do some Z's require a fuel return system and some do not?:confused:

Some guys just need more fuel than others! It all depends on individual goals and needs. There is no clear crossover point where it becomes absolutely necessary, but it does eventually become necessary for most. Those making high power without one would generally find themselves in better shape to have it. Someone could say that they have 600rwhp with no return system, but that doesnt mean it shouldnt have one... fuel pressure is going to drop towards redline when you are looking at that type of flow through stock plumbing especially when the pressure is regulated before rather than after incoming flow restrictions. Most tuners will find fuel pressure drop to be unacceptable because any system that is performing beyond its limits is going to lack consistency and without consistency in your fuel system you cannot really consider the setup to be truly dependable.

All aside from that, nobody ever really considers how efficiently their individual car is consuming and burning the fuel that its supplied. If two E85 370zs are running identical builds but one is tuned to 17 degrees timing and the other is tuned to 23 degrees timing, you are looking at 2 cars producing a variance of 75-100hp out of the same exact fuel volume. Timing is only one of countless values that can effect the engines ability to efficiently turn fuel into horsepower. Odds for or against you can reach the end of a fuel system a couple hundred HP apart. Some guys think a Walbro 255 can only support 400rwhp but I have seen them make 670rwhp! Its all over the place.

Going to try to get this done before our winter hits here - Thx Phunk, Jwick, Mitco for all the help.

The Ecutek tune from Seb/Greg partnered with Sasha Boosted Performance kit really bring my Z to the next level of enjoyment. If I had the dyno numbers to be part of the 500 club that would be the icing on the cake - but I am enjoying my Z just as it is...

Greg @ SpecialityZ - thanks for the clutch pedal adjustment too! :tiphat:

Sorry this is not an option. With different components (turbo/wastegates) there in no guarantee that things will fit.


Charles, thank you very much for sharing your expertise with the community when it comes to fuel systems, and how they perform...I am sure everybody appreciates it, I for sure do.


You also hit the nail on the head with regards to tuning and how power output and timing are so intricately connected. I have customer making 520whp and 480ft/tq, while some others are managing "only" 480hp and about 400ft/tq....all on the same OEM fuel system. Based on torque alone, it is easy to see that the higher torque output car has much higher timing....allowing for much higher power output with the same amount of fuel. I am seeing such a huge range with fuel injector duty cycles as well, which again is closely tied to how the car is tuned.

That doesn't concern me as we can make anything fit. Already replaced a Garrett on a Nismo Z with either your kit (or one that looks and/or mounts everything exactly the same way) with an oilless turbo because the oil scavenging pump sucked and the turbo was blowing oil through the compressor housing.... lol.

I like the ease of install of your kit, I'm not interested in the scavenging pump or turbo (prefer to run an oil less).

If you're interested in selling just the hard parts so we can fit our own turbo/gates/bov, lmk.

Tell then to make a manual AWD sedan :stirthepot:

:)

what would be an ideal turbo-back exhaust set up for your 600whp+ customers, to maximize flow & therefore power. can you still retain the dual exhaust set up for these cars or would a single be better?