I was just checking to rule out tuning issue. If Vince tuned it, we know the tune is good!

I don't know of any build that has north of 500wtq on pump gas without a built motor. All the big numbers are running E85 or have a built motor.

Mine let go just under those numbers. I was on E85 with 1000cc injectors and stock fuel system. It let go at about 7,800 rpms so I am about 75% sure it was due to a lean condition at those rpms. The other 25% lays in the fact I took it up to 600tq on a dyno pull when I had a boost control issue.

Were you on stock fuel system and 800cc's?

We should chat if you are going the built block route. Ive been there done that and now know exactly how I would do it again if I had to.

Yeah I'm planning on having my tuner keep the timing and gain on the boost controller low too.

If you pull the oil fill cap while the car is running and you see a lot of smoke come out its almost certain it's a ring land.

Yes that's what we did. White smoke out of the cap..and yes it was stock fuel system with 750cc injectors.

:stirthepot:
I see what ya did there lol.

I'm sorry to hear that!
Unfortunately, I know the feeling ...

Keep your head up! :tup::tup:

Im pretty sure its the fuel supply that did it. Id recommend anyone getting near 500 get a rfs from cjm.

I talked to Phunk and he told me it wasn't worth it unless I was trying to go for a bunch more power. I have a fuel pressure gauge and watch it religiously. I still have stock level pressure even at full boost.

where do you have it plumbed in?

The sender?

Thanks Swiss!! And yea a fuel return system is for sure in my mind now. Thanks for all the support guys!

Yeah for pump gas I'm sure its fine. When you need 30% more fuel then that's a different story. Funny thing is I went E85 for "safety" and it backfired..lol.. Oh well, now I can go even faster! :happydance:

Yeah

Used Phunk's multi-fitting and installed my gauge sender instead of the local indicator.

I'm thinking of a fuel system from Cj motorsports. I spoke with Vince and he said it is not needed for my power levels but I may upgrade to it eventually. Jwick, what would you advise for 550-600hp? And maybe Phunk can chime in? Lol

If you are going with a built motor then that means you will have to run more boost pressure to get the same HP due to lower compression, unless you are keeping stock compression. More boost pressure means more pressure drop against the deadend rail. I would definitely upgrade to one of Phunks return systems. At minimum I would go to the S1 return setup. Whether you want fuel rails is your call. Phunk is the expert so I'd consult with him.

To be honest just for my own comfort I'll be upgrading to the S1 system at some point its just a few items down the list at the moment. Seems like I've been upgrading/repairing/spend more money than I have been actually driving and enjoying the car. It's time I stop tinkering awhile and get in some serious :driving:

That's how I feel right now, many things in the way and it's another item down the list. Time to dump the clutch and go:driving:lol

Yo guys how do I contact boosted performance...I'm trying to order one of these kits!!!!

You can PM me here and we'll go from there.

Ok cool pm sent

Torque specs for the lower manifold that the fuel rails go into?

Check the fsm its posted around here somewhere

The bolts that tie down the fuel rail itself or the lower portion of the manifold?

Lower portion to the top of the head. I can't download the FSM on my phone

So, got a few questions for the V2 guys.

Does anyone have pictures of how they ran their oil lines? Mine are good but I'm feeling skeptical about a few of them.

What size is the oil filter sandwich nut?

Any anyone know the solution for the low hanging charge pipe?
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05...46ef20645d.jpg
I've already trimmed 3/4" off the coupler.

Check pg 23 (standard posts per page setting) of my build thread and you can see some pictures of my oil lines (I'm upgrade to V1.5 which has everything identical to your setup except the manifold).

In words:
- One line from the sandwich plate I ran in front of the passenger wheel, below the washerfluid tank, behind the FMIC and to the oil cooler.
- Second line I ran behind the radiator towards driver wheel (zip tied to fan shroud), over charge pipe, behind Exa pump, behind FMIC and to oil cooler.
- Both EXa pump lines I ran with the second oil cooler line to the pump and then tied into the pan and turbo drain pan respectively.

Note: I did build the oil cooler lines myself so I'm not sure how much length Sasha provided.

Sandwich nut, not sure on size. I tightened it with my robogrips.

As for charge pipe, I don't think mine hangs that low but having V1.5, I can't really provide any advice.

Oil lines sound exactly like I have em routed. The one running by the radiator wouldn't run any other way. I'm waiting for a new pan to pump line from sasha

I have a slight seep from the sandwich, couldn't get a really good bite on the nut.

Thanks jwick.

:tiphat:

Yeah it was difficult to get the sandwich plate snug. The nut is so big and there is little clearance between it and the plate housing.

Yeah that's why I was asking what size so I can get a socket on it. Hopefully I can just unscrew my filter real quick tighten it and put it back on without loosing too much oil. 7 quarts of red line is not cheap!

If you figure out the nut size, let me know cuz I want to pick up a socket in that size.

I'm thinking it's 1" or 26mm I had a 24mm handy and it didn't fit. Maybe Sasha can mic one out for us or if it comes down to it I'll pop my filter and mic it.

Roger that. I would have miced it myself if I hadn't been dead tired after a weekends worth of work. I'm also 3,000miles or 6 months from the oil filter being removed.

I also had a hardtime tightening that big nut for the oil cooler adapter plate. I had to take the nut and run to HF and match it to one that fit. The only one that fit well at HF is a 1'' one from the socket set # 69560

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psd9gegtku.jpg
As for the oil line, I had cut a chunk off the plastic corner on the bottom left side to allow the oil lines to reach.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psvdumb7bu.jpg

(don't mind the blocks and the 2x8 under the tires. They are extra and have very little weight on them. The weight of the car is on the floor jacks.)

YzGyz

^ awesome, Repped ;)

1" combination wrench works best for me. I'll z check out this oil line business this Saturday. I am doing a full install starting Saturday morning.

Oil line business?

What boost controller is everyone running? and how do you have your vaccum/boost lines run.

I have a Turbosmart E-boost Street 40, the install instructions don't give anything about a twin scroll setup. I was thinking about using the single port/single solenoid/twin turbo instructions which is
Single port, single solenoid, twin turbo connection Method
(For straight configuration twin parallel turbocharger engines E.g. RB26DETT)
 Port 1 of solenoid vent to atmosphere
 Port 2 of solenoid tee to bottom port of wastegates
 Port 3 of solenoid to Pressure only source

The new oil lines I am using...just to make sure everything fits as intended.

I did notice that you when to crimped ends