I hope I can get 550 whp on high boost but I'll take what Jonny will give me.

YzGyz

Did your kits come with shrink wrap for the fuel pump?

No, I soldered and then shrink wrapped the wires from my own supplies.

YzGyz

I don't think I would push to 550 on pump gas and if I wanted over 600 then E85 is the way to go. I don't think I'd feel comfortable with that level of power on 103oct

That. And any shrink wrap you do outside the cabin, use the marine grade cuz it's waterproof

thanks!

Compatible with 7AT?

No

Boosted Performance V 2.0 turbo list
 

Nor RHD :tup:

All of my piping is finish except for where the charged side connects to the turbo itself. That part hangs super low!! If I was driving, the pipe would probably be 2'' off the ground. It looks like A 45 ell may work if I clock the turbo a bit to the left.

In the manual,it states that the 90 degree ell connecting to the turbo is cut. My 90 is not cut. It looks like the pipe will still hang too low if the 90 was cut.

Side pic
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psqcauuctk.jpg

All of there other pictures are from the back of the car facing forwards.
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psvak8koju.jpg

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psrpopmb8j.jpg

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...pslfgyue2l.jpg

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psh5kufrcb.jpg

Any input?

YzGyz

Mine is the same...wasn't sure if it was just me or what...

I've tried every possible way and it's still so low..re-did all the piping and couplers to,helped a bit but not much

Boosted Performance V 2.0 turbo list
 

Looking at those pictures I don't think the turbo is clocked properly. Rotate it clockwise towards the tranny. When I installed mine I had he compressor cover rotate so close to the tranny that I could barely get the t-bolt clamp on between the silicone and the tranny.

Probably still have to trim be silicone coupler some but I think it should work.

The pic I posted was from the initial v2 announcement thread.

I want a referring to Y's pics

Ah I meant in reference to mine. I didn't clarify where my pic came from =P

Roger that:tup:

I tried that and it was still hanging pretty low...I think a 45 degree coupler would work better than the 90,but that's just me!

I tried all sorts of ways. Each time I moved or removed a pipe, I held my breath hoping that the silicone 90 ell did not come off. That thing is a mofo!

Anyhoo, Everything is exactly like that picture except that our piece slides into another one. I still don't see how I can gain enough ground clearance to drive safely without a 45 ell.

Let me go snap another pic at a further distance to show the whole thing.

YzGyz

What's the size of that 90 degree ell? 3 inch to 2.5 right? Or 4 to 2.5?

The pipe connect the to turbo slides into the pipe on the left (although very difficult and only a little bit) with the silicone coupler on the left.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psaorfxs2e.jpg

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psoqkwdrxo.jpg

What size is the ell? I have no idea. Look on the t-band clamps. They have sizes on them.

YzGyz

I'd have to see that in person

I've been away awhile and haven't fully read back yet, but Sasha, are there any V2 kits ready or are you currently taking orders for new kits?

He said that it would be awhile before he would take another order as he wanted to restock on the parts. It's on his Facebook page I believe

You still need to clock the turbo more, and the smaller diameter pipe needs to slide in to the next pipe (short/second pipe from the turbo). I can see the label on the first pipe, where it says : "slide in to second pipe".

Your OEM oxygen sensor harness also needs to be pushed further forward so that it is not over the first charge pipe.

I have pushed the pipe into the 2nd one more. I have not clocked it better yet. The pipe does sit higher but still hangs lower than what I would like. I posted in my build thread. I will have to take things apart and clock it better. (see my build thread)

It's just soo hard to get that darn pipe to slide into the other one. There is very little room (I have no idea how you magically design such a tight fitting kit. kudos). Clocking and tightening the turbo is a pia! I'll see about the o2 sensor harness.

thanks

YzGyz

Turbo isn't that bad to clock inplace.

I just finished taking things apart and re-clock the turbo. It us a little better now. I am okay with how she sits now. I would estimate there is about 5/8" space between the pipe comming out of the turbo and transmission. I also took some heat wrap and made a sleeve around the wires in the area. What a pain in the butt. I got caught up in the mess and did not call Up Rev back. I'll call them tomorrow When I get home from work in the morning.

N/m, they are closed Saturday and Sunday. I'll call on Monday since I need to rest before work.

YzGyz

The turbo should be clocked enough to have the outlet side of that 90 degree silicone coupler almost touching the transmission.

BTW, good job on the install.

Thanks. I don't facebook

I cannot get the fuel rails off. Removed the 4 bolts holding the rails to the lower and the two bolts to the fuel damper are off. I don't want to tear anything so I'm trying not to yank the fuel rail and injectors out

I removed the entire fuel feed tubing and it helped a lot

http://i1325.photobucket.com/albums/...pslpamxcpi.png

I have no idea what to do now

The first thing I would do is stuff paper towels in those intakes.

Did you unhook the injector harness ?

That fuel damper hard line has to come off too like jwick said.

Nvm

Then I guess...Nvm

-1st: take that gasket off and put it on the underside of the manifold.
-2nd: make sure everything is disconnected, sensors, vac lines, bolts
-3rd: climb on top of the engine and pull like a mad man! My fuel rail were super tough to separate from the engine. They slid in easy but were a monster to remove.
-4th: zip tie the adapters to the fuel rail after you put it back onto the car. I made the mistake of zip tieing them on the rail first then had to take the rail off again to zip tie them after I was able to test fit the manifold on right.

YzGyz

Yeah I got it eventually. I just thought I was missing something because it felt like it wanted to come out but I didn't want to ruin anything by yanking on the damn thing lol. Thanks all for the help

So went to start the car tonight...No fuel pressure..Relay isn't clicking on...Got my Voltage meter out and checked the ring terminals voltage and got 12V...Could the relay be bad possibly?