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That was when the clutch was toast! Before the clutch went out, that vette and I were running almost identical, cept I was a little faster That video is from
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#1 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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That was when the clutch was toast! Before the clutch went out, that vette and I were running almost identical, cept I was a little faster
![]() That video is from the very last pull i made, after letting the clutch cool for a hour to see if it would hold or not. That was my 1.847 60', 12.649 / 83.21mph |
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#2 (permalink) |
Im a Fireball
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could tell you hit the brakes before you got close to the end, ive been wanting to take mine to the track, but im afraid i will roast my clutch or have no traction.
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#3 (permalink) |
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Ya on the bad runs I pushed hoping it would do OK because it was still moving out well in first gear, but by 3rd the car would just stop pulling well so I left off somewhere in there.
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#4 (permalink) |
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Not sure if you posted or not, but did you ever figure out or resolve the issue you faced that day with the clutch?
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#5 (permalink) |
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No I havent opened it up yet.
Due to the way its behaving, I have a slight suspicion of the pressure plate being damaged from over-extension. I originally did the clutch and CSC at the same time, so I am not sure if the way my clutch has always been was just because of the clutches natural characteristics alone, or if the CSC was involved in making it this way. But it has always been an on/off switch at the VERY top of the pedal. I had to push the pedal down maybe 15% to be fully disengaged. I dont know if these clutches are all like that, or if the CSC i have in there is too small a diameter and travels too far with the stock master. Being an on-off switch, I had to adjust the pedal to put it either at the top or the bottom so that it was easy to find. Well the bottom sucks for racing so I went with the top. I always wanted to put a pedal stop there so that the pedal would only go down 40-50% and move the start switch, but I never did. My driving adapted and I never pushed the clutch down more than probably 25% unless starting the engine or driving all out where I just kick the pedal to the floor real hard. This day at the track was just a whole lot of slamming that pedal to the floor and combined with the age... I wonder if I fatigued the pressure plate fingers with over extension or something. I dont know. Never seen anything like that personally... but it seems possible based on how far past disengagement it was going. My reason for believing this is because not only has it lost its ability to hold power before slipping, but the pedal characteristic has entirely changed and now the clutch starts grabbing right off the floor and is very easy to modulate. OR I am just over thinking it, and its just burned out. This clutch has never seen that much riding before as I rarely attempted to launch my car due to no traction what so ever.
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Last edited by phunk; 09-22-2014 at 10:11 PM. |
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#6 (permalink) |
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wow man this is great stuff.
now i am even more interested in seeing what kinda of power i can make on a built motor also e85 looks like 100hp over normal 93oct gas easy my goal for spring is to hit the 600's on pump gas i will need more boost because i am on a low compression engine but i am truly loving these numbers
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#7 (permalink) |
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WTH? Where have I been? I guess there IS a thread for this. I remember asking on a different thread after I seen your sig.
Got the S1 kit btw. Still waiting for my built motor to get back from the machine shop then ill be installing this. For those pushing the limits... Remember, a lot more can go wrong than just a bent rod. My piston disintegrated and took out the crank, block, oil pump, head and now I have metal shavings in my oil lines and cooler. Ended up costing me a lot more than if I had just built it when it was still in one piece.
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#8 (permalink) | |
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One reason I am curious if phunk cracks open is block this winter and see what is stressed, any unusual wear that has occurred. It is great to see people able to push these blocks as far as they can, especially 4 years ago when the first SC/TT kits were put on and people were at 500whp and everyone thought that might be the limit.
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#9 (permalink) | |
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Food for thought.. On occasion we use Blackstone Labs. They can provide a great analysis for what's going on inside your motor without tearing it down. ![]() |
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#11 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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Charles:
Have you looked at the clutch and such yet? I am hoping that you will say something like "of course not Rob, I am too busy developing parts to drop my tranny right now", lol. I hope you get that worked out pretty soon man. Both of our cars can't be down right now........
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#12 (permalink) |
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Haven't touched the car since I backed it off the trailer and parked it in the shop! Without a new clutch in hand, might as well keep the car in running/driving shape in case I feel like driving it. That is, until today when I took the insurance off it. Going to put it on jack stands tomorrow or Monday and it's not going anywhere for a while... Going to change a "few" things!
edit: i picked up another car to drive 2 weeks ago so i dont have to drive the Z every day anymore.
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Last edited by phunk; 10-05-2014 at 04:52 PM. |
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#13 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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Uh Oh.............You have me worried again. I am going to be broke purchasing your S2-SE, RRP, and manifold/plenum. Unless you plan on going a different route with the plenum.
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#14 (permalink) |
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I dont want to say exactly what I am doing at this point because I am not yet 100% certain that I wont start parting the car to sell it the next few weeks. We are going to finish the intake manifold either way, but some of the other stuff is pending if I keep the car or not. I have been looking at Vipers again (i used to build them but never owned one), and you can get 2006 coupes for like $40 now... I dislike several things about the car, but the platform is much better suited for doing the things I want to do. If I keep the Z, I will have some pretty cool stuff to show.
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#15 (permalink) | |
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I just threw up in my mouth a little...
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