The tires are 28" diameter, on 15" wheels. Stock tire diameter is somewhere around 26 iirc

Gopro has free software on their site

I'm just curious, what do you have your rev limiter set at? I've watched each of your videos like 5 times btw ;)

It's either 7500 or 7600... I never changed it in the software. I'm pretty sure I was noticing that the tachometer cannot keep up in first and second because I kept hitting the limiter on the first passes before the needle was there

Charles do you think now it's safe to DD at 600rwhp? I know you said you where 525 or so before or you think 500-550 is still the safe zone for a DD TT

This. Is. Awesome!

Kudos to you, Charles :tiphat:

I ran it at 586+ for a year after 2 years of the 525ish, then now almost another 100 and it didnt break after a day of abuse, indicating it probably didnt get overly fatigued by the 586....

so I am going to raise my "safe" zone opinion to about 575-600rwhp for a daily driver. Assuming there are no tuning quirks. Personally I would never run the stock engine at that power on pump gas with the factory ECU... I have seen my ignition timing make too many decisions of its own to trust it on pump gas and high power.

Driving habits and peak torque are probably a larger factor though. I beat my car furiously all the time, but if my torque was up higher it might not have lasted all this long. But then again, I do not even ask my engine for peak torque anyway.

Any time I am going to high throttle the car I downshift and start at higher RPM. For example, I would never put my car in 5th gear at 3000rpm and just floor it. No way. I wouldnt even do that to a factory turbo car. Sure when I am in higher gears I will throttle it enough to make decent torque and enjoy the fact that its a high comp turbo 6 and not a low compression 4, but I dont ask it to be a viper v10 either.

I would also never personally road race a twin turbo 370z unless it was a proper race car. Maybe I would go at it a few laps at a time turned down to 500 and only with E85 and tons of airflow and cooling upgrades.

My only cooling upgrades right now are a small oil cooler, I think maybe 24 row, and its behind the intercooler... and a vented hood. Stock radiator still.

Not intending to get so off topic, just saying my piece on what i would or would not do when expecting a stock engine to hold together.

Damn dude that's impressive!

I told you I would go if you give me a heads up :)

Phunk that you?





not bad run against a supercharged z06

That was when the clutch was toast! Before the clutch went out, that vette and I were running almost identical, cept I was a little faster :)

That video is from the very last pull i made, after letting the clutch cool for a hour to see if it would hold or not. That was my 1.847 60', 12.649 / 83.21mph

could tell you hit the brakes before you got close to the end, ive been wanting to take mine to the track, but im afraid i will roast my clutch or have no traction.

Ya on the bad runs I pushed hoping it would do OK because it was still moving out well in first gear, but by 3rd the car would just stop pulling well so I left off somewhere in there.

Not sure if you posted or not, but did you ever figure out or resolve the issue you faced that day with the clutch?

No I havent opened it up yet.

Due to the way its behaving, I have a slight suspicion of the pressure plate being damaged from over-extension.

I originally did the clutch and CSC at the same time, so I am not sure if the way my clutch has always been was just because of the clutches natural characteristics alone, or if the CSC was involved in making it this way. But it has always been an on/off switch at the VERY top of the pedal. I had to push the pedal down maybe 15% to be fully disengaged. I dont know if these clutches are all like that, or if the CSC i have in there is too small a diameter and travels too far with the stock master.

Being an on-off switch, I had to adjust the pedal to put it either at the top or the bottom so that it was easy to find. Well the bottom sucks for racing so I went with the top. I always wanted to put a pedal stop there so that the pedal would only go down 40-50% and move the start switch, but I never did.

My driving adapted and I never pushed the clutch down more than probably 25% unless starting the engine or driving all out where I just kick the pedal to the floor real hard.

This day at the track was just a whole lot of slamming that pedal to the floor and combined with the age... I wonder if I fatigued the pressure plate fingers with over extension or something. I dont know. Never seen anything like that personally... but it seems possible based on how far past disengagement it was going.

My reason for believing this is because not only has it lost its ability to hold power before slipping, but the pedal characteristic has entirely changed and now the clutch starts grabbing right off the floor and is very easy to modulate.

OR I am just over thinking it, and its just burned out. This clutch has never seen that much riding before as I rarely attempted to launch my car due to no traction what so ever.

wow man this is great stuff.
now i am even more interested in seeing what kinda of power i can make on a built motor
also e85 looks like 100hp over normal 93oct gas easy
my goal for spring is to hit the 600's on pump gas i will need more boost because i am on a low compression engine but i am truly loving these numbers

WTH? Where have I been? I guess there IS a thread for this. I remember asking on a different thread after I seen your sig.

Got the S1 kit btw. Still waiting for my built motor to get back from the machine shop then ill be installing this.


For those pushing the limits... Remember, a lot more can go wrong than just a bent rod. My piston disintegrated and took out the crank, block, oil pump, head and now I have metal shavings in my oil lines and cooler. Ended up costing me a lot more than if I had just built it when it was still in one piece.

That is very true, pushing the limits almost anything can happen.
One reason I am curious if phunk cracks open is block this winter and see what is stressed, any unusual wear that has occurred.

It is great to see people able to push these blocks as far as they can, especially 4 years ago when the first SC/TT kits were put on and people were at 500whp and everyone thought that might be the limit.

Food for thought.. On occasion we use Blackstone Labs. They can provide a great analysis for what's going on inside your motor without tearing it down. :tup:

I wish I had done one of those when I was N/A or stock to have at least a starting place with my car.
I should probably do one since I am approaching 100k miles, and been boosted since 19k.

:iagree:

I just budget the cost of an analysis into every oil change. It's nice to be able to see trends and not just spot checks.

:werd: Me too! Real interested in what the first one post-turbo looks like.

You havent put 3K on your ride since the install yet? :icon14:

I just play dumb because ignorance is bliss and thus my motor remains intact

Nope. Sitting at about 2500-2600. I did change oil post dyno tune which was another 500ish miles and the G isn't my daily driver.

Charles:

Have you looked at the clutch and such yet? I am hoping that you will say something like "of course not Rob, I am too busy developing parts to drop my tranny right now", lol. I hope you get that worked out pretty soon man. Both of our cars can't be down right now........

Haven't touched the car since I backed it off the trailer and parked it in the shop! Without a new clutch in hand, might as well keep the car in running/driving shape in case I feel like driving it. That is, until today when I took the insurance off it. Going to put it on jack stands tomorrow or Monday and it's not going anywhere for a while... Going to change a "few" things!

edit: i picked up another car to drive 2 weeks ago so i dont have to drive the Z every day anymore.

Uh Oh.............You have me worried again. I am going to be broke purchasing your S2-SE, RRP, and manifold/plenum. Unless you plan on going a different route with the plenum.

I dont want to say exactly what I am doing at this point because I am not yet 100% certain that I wont start parting the car to sell it the next few weeks. We are going to finish the intake manifold either way, but some of the other stuff is pending if I keep the car or not. I have been looking at Vipers again (i used to build them but never owned one), and you can get 2006 coupes for like $40 now... I dislike several things about the car, but the platform is much better suited for doing the things I want to do. If I keep the Z, I will have some pretty cool stuff to show.

I just threw up in my mouth a little...

The Viper is pretty awesome. You definitely have to do suspension work and the like to make it handle well. Otherwise, it is awesome out of the box.

I sincerely hope you don't part out and sell, but I won't be mad at you if you do.

Sent from my GT-I9506 using Tapatalk

Viper? Charles did someone hack into your account and troll you? haha

Goodluck with whatever you decide!

This makes me a little sad that you might part the Z. And id rather see you get a 996TT over a viper. Just my two cents. Good luck either way.

Well I ordered some Carillo rods yesterday to join my CP 10:1 I have sitting around, and I located a HR engine (good bye VVEL) in florida that meets my specs for a good price... so far it looks like I will be turning it up a notch with the Z. We will still see though. I figured I should have the parts ready to go, I can still sell them for my cost or higher (surely having things ready to ship is worth a few bucks versus having to wait 4+ weeks for 10:1 CPs) if I bail out.

Still have to figure out a clutch though. I tried to contact RPS about their carbon race clutches but they havent responded. I have to find someone to work with that can build a VQ clutch that can handle some serious power.

I also have to talk to Haltech about what they can do for the 370z... with VVEL gone I can run any standalone, but I would prefer something that works with the CAN.

OH, and I am pulling my Greddy kit over the next couple weeks.. it is for sale! If I keep the car its getting much larger turbos, if I dont keep it, I obviously have no use for the Greddy kit anymore! I am working on getting a fresh set of manifolds for the Greddy kit right now since I am sure by now one of the manifolds is cracked.

25G12cm2 are much larger and will fit in that location, but you will definitely have to support the weight somehow........

I dont think anything bigger is going to the fit the Greddy manifolds. My 20gs are within MM of the chassis! A car with good motor mounts and flex sections in the exhaust shouldnt need any supports for the turbos, unless the turbo is mounted away from the cylinder heads.

We will just make some exhaust manifolds like we did for Justin's 350z. I am currently looking at the HTA3582s.

Charles just get the OS Giken Triple Disc clutch that's what I have it is rated for 1000 HP. If you need more than that then get he OS Quad Disc.

When I get the clutch removed from my 370z to figure out what went wrong, I will contact OS Giken and see if there is anything they can do with building me something using some of the existing parts or what not. I am not sure if they have anything that will hold up for my project or not.

Does this mean fuel rails for the HR motor could be in the horizon? :yum:

I dont think the engine is coming with the lower intake manifold and fuel rails, so i wouldnt be able to use it for HR rails :/