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When does the stumble hiccup happen? That may give a clue. When datalogging (or reviewing it later) take note of what the voltage readings are doing, as well as load and TP. I think the heater correction is normal for both -- the difference may or may not reflect anything. Once you confirm no vac leaks, no bad spark plugs, and injectors are working fine, all that's left is to check the O2 sensor (or just replace -- Denso p/n is 234-9104), wiring, and connector. If all is good then assume its just bad detection logic until a clear symptom presents itself. You should be able to narrow it down between cipher and checking those few specific mechanical issues. Finally, if the problem is consistent and can be narrowed down to a specific load range,you can always tweak the Bank 1 fueling in uprev. |
The hiccup is the same for all BP kits. Happens right as you pull up to a stop. Rpms dip a bit and car goes lean then rich before it stabilizes itself. The going theory is the fact that the kit vents crank case instead of routing pcv back into it. Like the ECU is expecting it. Galeforce has a thread on here that I can't link cuz I'm on the cell. Mitch is very familiar with it too.
I'll admit that although I'm mechanically sound what goes on in the ECU and tuning software is somewhat new to me and I'm not very good at understanding the meaning of what I'm seeing. |
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In any case, your sensors sound ok, and it sounds like this is a common problem. Maybe include a PCV and vac line and/or catch can? If OEM PCV isn't up to it, I know there are aftermarket PCV's for boosted applications. |
Jordo, take a look at the thread and let me know if you have any ideas. Thats the best one I got, and I plugged the vac lines going to the intake manifold and atleast around idle the problem seemed much better. Didnt want to drive it like that because I first want to get a catch can.
http://www.the370z.com/tuning/93796-...induction.html |
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I'm very interested to see what happens when Mitch gets a catch can and is able to drive around without the PCV system completely. On a similar note I order my O2 bung plugs and will get my tuner to update my map to disable the code this week. See how much that helps the idle issue. Any true tuning updates will have to wait until I get the V1.5 piping. |
I think for both you guys, welding a nipple for a PCV or setting up catch cans is the only solution.
At light load, you guys are clearly pulling vacuum, so that means you need a regulatory valve to fix. Either fix will do, because it will result in a closed system -- than means no more unmetered air slipping in. The only other solution I can see would be trying to have a PCV before the open filter? Then the crankcase filter becomes a one way vent. Just throwing out some ideas to try... |
So has anyone found a fix for this yet? I'm hesitant to start replacing expensive sensors if that's not the issue. If it's harmless, then I guess I could have the code disabled. If there's some risk, then I want to find a real fix. Anyone tried Jordos suggestions?
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Short story long, I've made no changes |
Gotcha. I don't drive mine much either but it always comes back eventually.
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Adding a PCV or catchcan should fix the problem. The crankcase needs to vent and not suck air.
If you have a nipple welded in you might get away with a breather filter too --but if its pulling air you need to keep everything in a closed system. |
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Anybody familiar enough with the GTM SC kits to know what they do with the secondary PCV system (the one that OEM routes back into the intake)? I was also discussing with Mitco39 and he told me that tapping the intake piping and routing back in would open up other issues. Can't remember all the details because it was above my technical knowledge. So it appears that a catch can might be the only solution but wouldn't that be vented too? |
Has anyone or have you guys considered doing a crank case evac system setup? That my plan but I havent found anyone who has done it yet. I want to avoid taping it back into the intake system as well and a CCE system would avoid that.
I can confirm that my kit stumbles as well when coming to a stop and im venting too. |
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The trick here is allowing the crankcase to vent to atm while at the same time keeping boost out of there. Ideally you want a bit of a vacuum at all times in the crankcase. But when you go boosted this stops happening under WOT as your manifold pressure is no longer below atm. This means that you cannot tap into the intake as you could under NA without some sort of metering system to keep the pressure of the crankcase at or below atm.
What you really need is a vac pump. because under WOT you don't have a vac source. At idle things are fine because of your throttle bodies. WOT in a NA car still has a marginal vacuum in the intake runners just due to the pressure differential between your air filters and the combustion chamber. Its hard because for every idea that comes up there is a reason why its not going to work. |
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