Adding a PCV or catchcan should fix the problem. The crankcase needs to vent and not suck air.

If you have a nipple welded in you might get away with a breather filter too --but if its pulling air you need to keep everything in a closed system.

Everything I've heard tells me that if you were to route the PCV back in, instead of venting it, you would have to do that pre-turbo. Both the AAM and GTM kits do it that way, and I would venture to guess FI is the same. The problem is the air filter in our setup is clamped directly to the inlet of the turbo and there is no room to route it back in.

Anybody familiar enough with the GTM SC kits to know what they do with the secondary PCV system (the one that OEM routes back into the intake)?

I was also discussing with Mitco39 and he told me that tapping the intake piping and routing back in would open up other issues. Can't remember all the details because it was above my technical knowledge.

So it appears that a catch can might be the only solution but wouldn't that be vented too?

Has anyone or have you guys considered doing a crank case evac system setup? That my plan but I havent found anyone who has done it yet. I want to avoid taping it back into the intake system as well and a CCE system would avoid that.


I can confirm that my kit stumbles as well when coming to a stop and im venting too.

Are you running the VSR kit?

The trick here is allowing the crankcase to vent to atm while at the same time keeping boost out of there. Ideally you want a bit of a vacuum at all times in the crankcase. But when you go boosted this stops happening under WOT as your manifold pressure is no longer below atm. This means that you cannot tap into the intake as you could under NA without some sort of metering system to keep the pressure of the crankcase at or below atm.

What you really need is a vac pump. because under WOT you don't have a vac source. At idle things are fine because of your throttle bodies. WOT in a NA car still has a marginal vacuum in the intake runners just due to the pressure differential between your air filters and the combustion chamber.

Its hard because for every idea that comes up there is a reason why its not going to work.

And this is why we all still have a stumble issue at idle.

No. Its all custom and a headache! :)

I probably dont have a complete understanding of a CCE system but it plumbs into your downpipe or header collector for NA. So wouldnt that techinically be vent to atmosphere? This would avoid running it into your intake side and also avoid being fully open and making a mess in the engine bay. I get what youre saying about keeping boost out of there though.

Also found some info on vaccum pumps if that is a more preferred route
Electric vacuum pump - Yellow Bullet Forums

I have this right now but I have not implemented it into my setup yet.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-120108/?rtype=10

Im just spitballing ideas here.

The vac pump could work although the way our system is setup something would have to be done with that PCV line that goes to the stock resonator boxes on our cars. With that left open to atm air would just get sucked in through there as it is when the car is idling. I drew it up for Jwick back in that thread he posted on here to make more sense of it.

Can't you just run a hose to the supercharger inlet? Depending on the inlet plumbing, you might not have a lot of vacuum but it should always be below atmospheric. YMMV

You could and as long as its post MAF you should be fine. Its us turbo guys with the filters stuck right on the compressor housing that have a bit of an issue.

Ah. Thanks for clearing that up for me.

Anything come out of this aside from changing the random misfire sensitivity?
mine has been throwing p2a00 here and there usually in the same conditions.

might just have it disabled. long term fuel trims have been spot on.

Disabled with 0 issues in a very long time.

Same here.

Is disabling the code something we would be able to do with cipher? I have had to reset the code about 6ish times since I've had my car back in my possession, since early October. My tuner is across the country so taking it to them is unrealistic.

It can't be done in cipher. It must be done in the actual tune.

Looks like I'll just have to keep erasing the code for now.

Thanks for the clarification.

I've been having this issue for quite some time, bank 1 sensor 1 P2A00 code with random misfire (reset it multiple times and it comes back) and the RPM dip when I come to a stop. So either I pay $700 for two wideband o2 sensors and hope that clears the code issues or pay ~$600 for an uprev tune that also removes that code detection along with a mild tune for FI LTH and exhaust?

Check your long term fuel for bank 1 if they're not completely out of whack I'd go ahead and get tuned and delete the codes

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Are you referring to the duty cycle of the injectors to see if they're all pumping out fuel properly or the pre-cat wideband o2 sensor checks?

If you look at your live data on a obd scanner there should be something about long term fuel trims

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