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3.3 vs 3.69 Final Drive with FI setup

To boosted guys: has anyone here with MT and FI done a final drive change from OEM 3.69 MT to 3.3 AT? How much does that help with e.g. 1/4

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Old 08-13-2014, 05:42 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default 3.3 vs 3.69 Final Drive with FI setup

To boosted guys: has anyone here with MT and FI done a final drive change from OEM 3.69 MT to 3.3 AT? How much does that help with e.g. 1/4 mile time? Is that worthy of 0.2-0.4s less for 1/4 mile?
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Old 08-13-2014, 06:02 PM   #2 (permalink)
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There are a few who have. If their names pop into my head I'll PM them to chime in...

If you WANT to make the switch, I'm more than happy to swap with you!!!
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Old 08-13-2014, 06:16 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by DEpointfive0 View Post
There are a few who have. If their names pop into my head I'll PM them to chime in...

If you WANT to make the switch, I'm more than happy to swap with you!!!
I hope someone done it before and will share with us some results, I know that 1&2 gear traction should be better but would that be a real gain with better time on 1/4? I already have the Racelogic Traction Control, Whiteline bushings, Toyo r888 and looking something more...
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Old 08-13-2014, 06:24 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Diabel View Post
I hope someone done it before and will share with us some results, I know that 1&2 gear traction should be better but would that be a real gain with better time on 1/4? I already have the Racelogic Traction Control, Whiteline bushings, Toyo r888 and looking something more...
Your working against physics. There is only so much traction available at any given time. Changing gear ratios does not change the amount of torque you can apply to the wheels before slipping. If you want to control your slippage you have to control the torque, this can be done through a boost controller that limits boost on throttle position and rpm. The torque can be "curved" to only increase in the upper rpms where it can become usable.
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Old 08-13-2014, 06:29 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I did, got the diff from an auto 350z so it's a 3.3 vlsd. I guess I don't have a lot of info though since I swapped before I went FI, and I haven't really launched my car yet (still getting used to the new power). It seems like everyone has traction issues in 2nd even from rolls though, and while it spins into 2nd if say I do a 20 roll from 1st and then shift into 2nd, if I'm going like 35 and mash it in second it kinda chirps and then grabs.
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Old 08-13-2014, 06:30 PM   #6 (permalink)
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oooorr you can put a 3.33 rear gear in like he is suggesting and reduce the torque delivered to the wheels by 11%. FYI that is why nissan puts a 2.66 rear gear on the m56

most porsches and supercars with "more traction" also happen to be gear 10-20% higher than the factory z. the more torque you have in a light car, the higher you you want the gearing to be control delivered torque.
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Old 08-13-2014, 06:40 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Yeah look at the ZR1, thing does like 66mph in first gear lol. Probably a big part of why it's 0-60 is so fast
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Old 08-13-2014, 07:23 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Edited...

There are other consequences of the switch that have kept me from doing it thus far. First, SRM will not work well the farther you get away from the factory MT rear end ratio. My guess is 3.53 is not that big of a deal, but 3.3 could be. Also, cruise control will not work properly in at least 6th gear with even the 3.53 (I believe) and definitely not with the 3.3. I can't be without cruise control!
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Old 08-13-2014, 07:47 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Yep, did lose cruise in 6th gear (which is like the most important one lol)
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Old 08-13-2014, 08:10 PM   #10 (permalink)
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There are other consequences of the switch that have kept me from doing it thus far. First, SRM will not work well the farther you get away from the factory MT rear end ratio. My guess is 3.69 is not that big of a deal, but 3.3 could be. Also, cruise control will not work properly in at least 6th gear with even the 3.69 (I believe) and definitely not with the 3.3. I can't be without cruise control!
Just an FYI the factory MT rear end ratio that is in your car is already 3.69
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Old 08-13-2014, 09:25 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Can a tuner adjust SRM to match a 3.3 gear?
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Old 08-13-2014, 09:54 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Can a tuner adjust SRM to match a 3.3 gear?
You can with ecutek. I'm running the 350z 3.52 final drive and the SRM is close enough to still work well and you don't lose cruise control like the 3.3 does, but 3.3 is your best bet for a twin turbo if you want the most traction, no question.
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Old 08-13-2014, 09:59 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 1slow370 View Post
oooorr you can put a 3.33 rear gear in like he is suggesting and reduce the torque delivered to the wheels by 11%. FYI that is why nissan puts a 2.66 rear gear on the m56

most porsches and supercars with "more traction" also happen to be gear 10-20% higher than the factory z. the more torque you have in a light car, the higher you you want the gearing to be control delivered torque.
exactly. another example are the twin turbo 1/3 series BMW's that have a 3.0 final drive as well and don't have anywhere near the traction issues we do while running smaller tires and better 1/4 mile times.
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Old 08-14-2014, 12:06 AM   #14 (permalink)
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I did the 3.3 in my 350z and it was worth it. I plan to with my 370.

dang, I didnt know the 370z dropped cruise with the 3.3. Hmm, I will have to ponder why the cruise control cares about the final drive. I figured it would just be a wheel speed based thing, and it would adjust throttle to achieve the target wheel speed. Anyone clear on why we lose cruise? I am drawing a blank at the moment.
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Old 08-14-2014, 12:20 AM   #15 (permalink)
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You can with ecutek. I'm running the 350z 3.52 final drive and the SRM is close enough to still work well and you don't lose cruise control like the 3.3 does, but 3.3 is your best bet for a twin turbo if you want the most traction, no question.
Anyone know if uprev can do it?
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