How much boost pressure can a built VQ37VHR withstand?

G37Sam · 08-11-2014, 02:04 AM

One of the reasons people build their engines is to drop compression to a decent enough level for boost. The OEM compression ratio is too high for pump fuel.

You also need to keep in mind that traction is a major issue on our cars, and the increased torque makes breaking parts in your drivetrain much easier. If you're building a dyno queen you'll be fine but anything you plan to race requires serious consideration in terms of traction and strength.

Nuc370z · 08-11-2014, 09:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by G37Sam

One of the reasons people build their engines is to drop compression to a decent enough level for boost. The OEM compression ratio is too high for pump fuel.

You also need to keep in mind that traction is a major issue on our cars, and the increased torque makes breaking parts in your drivetrain much easier. If you're building a dyno queen you'll be fine but anything you plan to race requires serious consideration in terms of traction and strength.

What would you recommend upgrading for the drivetrain? Eg. Clutch (which brand is best suited for high torque spikes), driveshaft, differential (I plan on an OS giken, but any suggestions?), gearbox, etc.

Thanks!

KratikosG37 · 11-04-2014, 11:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by G37Sam

One of the reasons people build their engines is to drop compression to a decent enough level for boost. The OEM compression ratio is too high for pump fuel.

You also need to keep in mind that traction is a major issue on our cars, and the increased torque makes breaking parts in your drivetrain much easier. If you're building a dyno queen you'll be fine but anything you plan to race requires serious consideration in terms of traction and strength.

Agreed. After reading this thread, they're no reason for 600+whp for street use.

12 PSI tune on OEM engine is a protenial low 11's 1/4 mile car all day long.

IMO i'm happy with 8 PSI with 450ishwhp. Can do a John Force in 3 gears, or 1.6 60ft with good tires(and great driver).

Just don't see the point in building a engine other then appying some where other then the street. (Not implying street racing for $$$ just normal use fyi)

1slow370 · 11-04-2014, 12:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KratikosG37

Agreed. After reading this thread, they're no reason for 600+whp for street use.

12 PSI tune on OEM engine is a protenial low 11's 1/4 mile car all day long.

IMO i'm happy with 8 PSI with 480whp. Can do a John Force in 3 gears, or 1.6 60ft with good tires(and great driver).

Just don't see the point in building a engine other then appying some where other then the street. (Not implying street racing for $$$ just normal use fyi)

Yup I have 370whp and I'm running out of traction need to get better tires. 500+ whp is pretty useless on these cars unless you want to go a bazillion mph.

08-11-2014, 02:04 AM	#1 (permalink)
G37Sam A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Dubai, UAE Posts: 1,507 Drives: RB'd G37 Rep Power: 21	One of the reasons people build their engines is to drop compression to a decent enough level for boost. The OEM compression ratio is too high for pump fuel. You also need to keep in mind that traction is a major issue on our cars, and the increased torque makes breaking parts in your drivetrain much easier. If you're building a dyno queen you'll be fine but anything you plan to race requires serious consideration in terms of traction and strength. __________________ '14 Viper GTS '08 RB'd G37S - Sold

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