The twin setup I'm building next well be what enends up on my car someday..I think the 6266 should be more than enough...I think if I can get high 6 to low 700 the z will be point less so that what I'm shooting for...lol...but my number one goal is busting *** on high dollar cars its what I love idk y but I love to say I have less 30k in my car and I just walked you. ..plus the z will never do what my talon will do on the strip so I'm not going to try...I like to slide....

Agreed. After reading this thread, they're no reason for 600+whp for street use.

12 PSI tune on OEM engine is a protenial low 11's 1/4 mile car all day long.

IMO i'm happy with 8 PSI with 450ishwhp. Can do a John Force in 3 gears, or 1.6 60ft with good tires(and great driver).

Just don't see the point in building a engine other then appying some where other then the street. (Not implying street racing for $$$ just normal use fyi)

I cant wait to see how this project turns out!
Please log your boost curve upon completion of dyno. I mean, that is after all the number 1 reason to make it twins vs. single right?

Yup I have 370whp and I'm running out of traction need to get better tires. 500+ whp is pretty useless on these cars unless you want to go a bazillion mph.

I have tons and tons of info on all the work I do...but I will for sure....as far as traction goes I was putting down 500 whp and didn't have a problem with traction out side of first and tires warm..and that's on stock 2014 rays

Surprised to hear this. My car has trouble putting down the power even in 2nd. Running 305 PSS's and whiteline diff bushings.

:iagree:

Mine will get sloppy as hell in 2nd, and I'm probably only putting down ~480whp or so.

I always wonder whats really going on with traction. I have around 500 and I spin through 1st but hook up pretty hard in 2nd, in summer.

And 10 lbs on E85 with 16* timing is plenty to put me in the range of "I should be losing traction".

hmmm. i also have 500+ and i have traction in all but 1st and part of second.
now i do have a wheel hop problem i am chasing but once she is rolling shes gone.
i dont think 500 even 550 is to much power for the street, out of boost the car drives just like stock

see there is a problem here you have guys who only give a shiz about putting down power in a drag, then you have guys who actually want to drive the car and use that power like a normal car. can the z be set up to put down 500hp in a straight line under semi controlled conditions? sure but it doesn't mean that it isn't going to be a total bitch to use that power while actually driving. thats why when robispec took the blue meanie out in a time attack against the greedy tt car put together by one of the magazines his lap times were only .1 of a second slower. This car can't really use more than 450whp even when fully set up.

Guess I'll chime in...First is worthless, I get most of 2nd if the temperature is above 90, 3rd gear I hook up unless temperatures are below 60. Haven't seen temps in the 40's yet.

Best DynoJet number guess is 480whp/450wtq @ 10psi. I do have the diff bushing upgrade which seems to help.

Absolutely. There's a huge difference once you start turning the wheel in regards to traction. I take it your building your NA beast for this very reason?

Pretty much it's more controllable/consistent, another 40hp and I will be happy but I still ned to get used to what I have now.

you have to take the good with the bad. i mean if you want to drive the car like normal then dont boost it. we all know you cant just add 5-600hp to a stock car and expect it to run normal with all stock suspension.
redo the suspension to match the power and the car will run like a race car

but then expect to lose so of that comfort you just have to find that zone.

when i had my mustang i made about 550rwhp or so and over did the suspension to support 800 or so hp and it was horrible to drive on a day to day

Damn. Aren't you blowing the old NA record out of the water? How do you plan to add the 40 more? That thing will be faster than most 350Z's with FI.