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The E85 Mystery

Octane, tuning, and other in-cylinder transient factors aside, unless we're talking same set-up, same (type of) dyno, etc, I would take that claim with a pinch of salt. Even if

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Old 06-19-2014, 03:20 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Octane, tuning, and other in-cylinder transient factors aside, unless we're talking same set-up, same (type of) dyno, etc, I would take that claim with a pinch of salt.

Even if it can be achieved and verified, how long is the motor holding together as torque levels climb past mechanical tolerances? You can crack a ringland if combustion pressures get high enough, even without evidence of autoignition/knock events.
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Old 06-19-2014, 10:12 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by TopgunZ View Post
Seriously bud where are you coming from? Your over on the other thread saying how you want to switch to e85 on an na application then your here dogging it.

Op... Its a way to make more power safely. Its cheaper and readily available race gas. Thats it.

Mods...Lock up the thread before more people become misinformed.
I said over there I'd run e85 only as needed. Only at the track. Not sure if you saw that or not.

It's not cheaper. Saving a few cents per gallon doesn't make up the 30% faster burn rate. It's no where near cheaper!!
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Old 06-19-2014, 10:23 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Jordo! View Post
Octane, tuning, and other in-cylinder transient factors aside, unless we're talking same set-up, same (type of) dyno, etc, I would take that claim with a pinch of salt.

Even if it can be achieved and verified, how long is the motor holding together as torque levels climb past mechanical tolerances? You can crack a ringland if combustion pressures get high enough, even without evidence of autoignition/knock events.
Ill admit that the more power your making, in every revolution, the motor weakens. Rods, pistons, rings, everything.

However, you can make that power with less chance of it letting go due to predet. Also you can stretch out the lifetime of that motor if you are running less boost by using more timing, which is safer to do with E.
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Old 06-19-2014, 10:28 AM   #19 (permalink)
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I said over there I'd run e85 only as needed. Only at the track. Not sure if you saw that or not.

It's not cheaper. Saving a few cents per gallon doesn't make up the 30% faster burn rate. It's no where near cheaper!!

You also said "Id be scared to use E85 as a power adder". Now you want to run it on the track.

Again where the hell are you coming from? I said it was cheap RACE GAS. So "a few cents per gallon"? Please show me where I can get race gas for $2.89.

Nobody runs E85 for its amazing cost saving benefits. We run it because its race gas for 1/3 the price.

Ask yourself why they make race gas.

Would anybody not want to run race gas if you could all the time?
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Old 06-19-2014, 11:17 AM   #20 (permalink)
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You also said "Id be scared to use E85 as a power adder". Now you want to run it on the track.

Again where the hell are you coming from? I said it was cheap RACE GAS. So "a few cents per gallon"? Please show me where I can get race gas for $2.89.

Nobody runs E85 for its amazing cost saving benefits. We run it because its race gas for 1/3 the price.

Ask yourself why they make race gas.

Would anybody not want to run race gas if you could all the time?
If you're going to quote me do it right. You left off the important part. I said scared because it changes THROUGH THE YEAR!!. I don't run at the track in December with a foot of snow, do you??? Plus even in summer it may not be e85, more like e80-75-70 etc. like my friends before a fill up I'll check the etoh content. If its low ill retune before a track day and not just blindly put it in like a dumb *** and go.

Lol I think VP racing fuel would disagree with you there. And I know why they run RACE gas! Its 100% controlled and perfect everytime and not some different street gas that's always changing and never the same from the multitude of companies that produce it. You thinking its race gas and used as such is like me saying I run a re11, rs3, z1 yok, etc etc on different wheels at different times and it doesn't matter because they're all "race tires."
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Old 06-19-2014, 11:44 AM   #21 (permalink)
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That's why you tune off of E70 then you can only get better quality from there on up. I agree that the fact they differ the content can be a pain.

However, E85 has only been proven to be a far superior fuel to run vs. pump gas by every tuner in the world. You talk about subi guys all the time. Well subi guys love this stuff for a reason. They all are boosted.

Why do you think there are guys that drive 50 miles out of there way with two 5 gallon tanks in their hatch just to run this stuff?

This shouldn't be a "should I run it" discussion. It should be a " Am I boosted and do I have availability"? Then its a no brainer.
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Old 06-19-2014, 04:45 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Ill admit that the more power your making, in every revolution, the motor weakens. Rods, pistons, rings, everything.

However, you can make that power with less chance of it letting go due to predet. Also you can stretch out the lifetime of that motor if you are running less boost by using more timing, which is safer to do with E.
If quenching hotspots are the only issue, then, yes, that follows.

Also, if E85 has a lower stoichiometric ratio than regular petrol I believe that translates into more potential energy (i.e., combustion pressure) to get out of it, so that could be contributing too.

I have no idea what the actual mechanical tolerances are on a stock VQ37HR longblock, tho...

Are there any confirmed breaks from overpower as opposed to detonation?
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Old 06-19-2014, 05:38 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Also, if E85 has a lower stoichiometric ratio than regular petrol I believe that translates into more potential energy (i.e., combustion pressure) to get out of it, so that could be contributing too.
Ethanol has significantly less potential energy than gasoline. That's why it takes significantly more of it (think huge injectors) to make lots of power. But it's excellent for knock resistance.

Per Wiki: Gasoline has 114K BTU/gal to Ethanol's 76K/gal.
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Old 06-19-2014, 11:35 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Are there any confirmed breaks from overpower as opposed to detonation?

Not that I know of. I'm sure mine will go eventually. I flog the hell out of it at the track pretty regularly. And that's 600+ whp on stock internals. But of course that's one of the main reasons I went with e85.

I'm just treating it as an experiment at the point. How long can I beat on it at these power levels at the track before it fails? We'll see!
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Old 06-20-2014, 04:31 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Ethanol has significantly less potential energy than gasoline. That's why it takes significantly more of it (think huge injectors) to make lots of power. But it's excellent for knock resistance.

Per Wiki: Gasoline has 114K BTU/gal to Ethanol's 76K/gal.
I think the key value here is latent heat of vaporization vs. amount of fuel needed to achieve peak torque, which is a factor related to stoichiometry -- check out p. 117 on down at this link.

http://martysgarage.info/manuals/bell2ttuning.pdf

It's from A.G. Bell's book on fueling 2-stroke engines, but he has the exact same formulas/rationale in his 4-stroke supercharged tuning book.

Anyway, in theory, less efficient, but more energy ultimately produced as a consequence.

Now, if E85 ends up breaking about even, then it's just less efficient, but has a higher auto ignition threshold and higher octane, in which case never mind my other point
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Old 06-20-2014, 10:25 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Jordo! View Post
I think the key value here is latent heat of vaporization vs. amount of fuel needed to achieve peak torque, which is a factor related to stoichiometry -- check out p. 117 on down at this link.

http://martysgarage.info/manuals/bell2ttuning.pdf

It's from A.G. Bell's book on fueling 2-stroke engines, but he has the exact same formulas/rationale in his 4-stroke supercharged tuning book.

Anyway, in theory, less efficient, but more energy ultimately produced as a consequence.

Now, if E85 ends up breaking about even, then it's just less efficient, but has a higher auto ignition threshold and higher octane, in which case never mind my other point
Those are great books BTW!
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Old 06-21-2014, 10:57 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Default The E85 Mystery

Some great discussion taking place here.

It would be nice if VQ owners knew whether our cars are power limited at 550WHP due to engine internal strength or if it's based solely on detonation. This is important to distinguish because guys with stock motors and FI should know what the limiting factor really is.

If a tuner could get 700WHP out of my stock engin, regardless of fuel, would I really feel comfortable keeping it there (even if there are no signs if detonation)? Definitely not lol

I'm getting my car tuned in a couple weeks and I want to be prepared so I think I'll play it safe. I'll have two maps. 1 for 91 and another for 94 octane. Regardless of the amount of power he can get with the 94 I will make sure to use a boost setting that maintains no more power than 550WHP. When someone can produce information indicating it's 600WHP then I'll change it at that point. For the long haul I think that's the best approach - IMO


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Old 06-21-2014, 12:30 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Some great discussion taking place here.

It would be nice if VQ owners knew whether our cars are power limited at 550WHP due to engine internal strength or if it's based solely on detonation. This is important to distinguish because guys with stock motors and FI should know what the limiting factor really is.

If a tuner could get 700WHP out of my stock engin, regardless of fuel, would I really feel comfortable keeping it there (even if there are no signs if detonation)? Definitely not lol

I'm getting my car tuned in a couple weeks and I want to be prepared so I think I'll play it safe. I'll have two maps. 1 for 91 and another for 94 octane. Regardless of the amount of power he can get with the 94 I will make sure to use a boost setting that maintains no more power than 550WHP. When someone can produce information indicating it's 600WHP then I'll change it at that point. For the long haul I think that's the best approach - IMO


NOBLE
One BIG issue that doesn't come up is the fuel pressure drop associated with a stock fuel pump assembly AND keeping it returnless. Over time the drop can get worse leaning out the AFRs. I HIGHLY, and I stress HIGHLY, recommend forced inducted 370Zs run a return style fuel system. From what we've gathered, fuel pressure drops become apparent near and around 450 whp.
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Old 06-21-2014, 03:42 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Some great discussion taking place here.

It would be nice if VQ owners knew whether our cars are power limited at 550WHP due to engine internal strength or if it's based solely on detonation. This is important to distinguish because guys with stock motors and FI should know what the limiting factor really is.

If a tuner could get 700WHP out of my stock engin, regardless of fuel, would I really feel comfortable keeping it there (even if there are no signs if detonation)? Definitely not lol

I'm getting my car tuned in a couple weeks and I want to be prepared so I think I'll play it safe. I'll have two maps. 1 for 91 and another for 94 octane. Regardless of the amount of power he can get with the 94 I will make sure to use a boost setting that maintains no more power than 550WHP. When someone can produce information indicating it's 600WHP then I'll change it at that point. For the long haul I think that's the best approach - IMO


NOBLE

There are quite a few of us running 600+ for some time now. But admittedly no one with 20k miles or so. Just give it time

I'm convinced 600 with proper fuel, cooling, and tune is well within limits. Proof is in the pudding
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Old 06-22-2014, 10:35 PM   #30 (permalink)
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One BIG issue that doesn't come up is the fuel pressure drop associated with a stock fuel pump assembly AND keeping it returnless. Over time the drop can get worse leaning out the AFRs. I HIGHLY, and I stress HIGHLY, recommend forced inducted 370Zs run a return style fuel system. From what we've gathered, fuel pressure drops become apparent near and around 450 whp.
Can't you just upgrade to a higher output pump?

Between that and bigger injectors I'm surprised there would be much drop off unless we're talking a lot of boost pressure.

What lph and injectors are the high horsepower Z's running vs. OEM specs?
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