So just ordered my Stillen SC

mikey1600 · 07-02-2014, 04:49 AM

Day 3;

thought I'd throw up a few pictures as well (they have been added to my album), got a fair bit done today. Came up with a really good solution for everyone upgrading to the frozenboost heat exchanger, this involves the lower part of the crash bar frame (not the main beam) and using the arms as brackets so the heat exchanger sits back far enough so you don't have to cut up the front bar + don't have to cut up the crash bar itself. It's a combination between Vlad and Ivo's installs. Measured the heat exchanger to need to sit around 20-25mm behind being flush with the crash beam. You'll still need to remove the standard drain plug and find something to block the hole, I'll be trying to find a Hex key bolt like the one already on the unit in another place, and also cut out a whole in the plastic which screws to the front bar so I can drain the fluid when needed, just like you would with the engine's radiator. I'll label the pictures as Frozenboost so you get the idea, any questions just ask.

managed to mount the blower along with the water pump/water reservoir/overflow bottle/plumbing for it and put the new belt on, test fit the intakes to make sure they don't interfere with the heat exchanger positioning. I did have to move the horns, on the Aus models we have a High and Low horn, one is on either side of the front, I've had to move the one from the right (looking at the front of the car) to the left hand side, just used the same bracket as the existing one and put them both onto it. Also tidied up some of the cabling etc in the engine bay, it was starting to get all over the place, so removed some mounts, moved some cables under/over things and redone the mounts.

Tomorrow will be heading out first of all to get the water plugs/hex key for drain of the heat exchanger and getting distilled water (already have the MoCool) along with new genuine nissan coolant for engine (as I had to drain it even after being told multiple times would not!)

up to page 22 of 37 for tomorrows start after finishing off the cooler stuff, there's not many parts left over now, mainly some wiring to do and some more plumbing, STILL waiting on my tune file.... will be ringing vivid again tonight to try get it, also contacted my tuner and they are seeing if they have anything available from previous stillen installs.

theDreamer · 07-02-2014, 09:39 AM

I'm not 100% sure with the stillen SC kit, but I know with other kits you can potentially drive on the stock tune for a short distance if you need to, to get to your tuner. Just keep it under 3k rpm and out of boost and be cautious, basically keeping the system thinking all is the same. How far is your tuner? Another option might be to tow the car.

mikey1600 · 07-02-2014, 09:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by theDreamer

I'm not 100% sure with the stillen SC kit, but I know with other kits you can potentially drive on the stock tune for a short distance if you need to, to get to your tuner. Just keep it under 3k rpm and out of boost and be cautious, basically keeping the system thinking all is the same. How far is your tuner? Another option might be to tow the car.

Hmm,

so you think it would be safe if I don't get a tune in time just to start it/check for leaks and not drive it, I'm happy to get a tow if needed and I've advised them I may need one and they can organise it all for me. I was just worried cause we have changed fuel pump/injectors/spark plugs/maf sensor positions etc.. never really changed this much before and used a standard cars tune, I know they are a lot better these days with making adjustments.

tuner is about 50km (31-32miles) away, mostly highway driving as well, so would just be sitting in 6th around 2000-2500rpm. I could definitely shift under 3k rpm if needed, it's not gunna stall on me? lol

theDreamer · 07-02-2014, 09:58 AM

I will have to check with others, because more so on how the stillen moves a few items versus other setups. I know some have started up on a stock tune to check for leaks while waiting and it was ok.

Z&I · 07-02-2014, 10:11 AM

Double Check with Stillen just to make sure ...

mikey1600 · 07-02-2014, 10:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Z&I

Double Check with Stillen just to make sure ...

Stillen will flat out say not to do it obviously to cover themselves, even to get the 9lb pulley you have to sign a waiver and in the description it says using this pulley with stock tune or stock stillen tune could result in catastrophic engine failure without getting a custom tune, I mean of course it will if you are red lining the thing with a not designed tune for the increased boost.

after people who have done so if possible

thompsontechs · 07-02-2014, 10:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikey1600

So day 2 down, finishing earlier today.

now up to page 17 of 37 for tomorrows start.

had to head out and buy a 3/8 breaker bar for the belt tensioner, couldn't get just the bar anywhere so bought a deep drive 3/8 socket set with the bar in it, I'll use the deep sockets on other stuff so no biggie.

lots of fiddling with bits and pieces today, probably the most pain in the *** thing was getting the 3 bolts underneath the new manifold tightened along with having to cut/re-solder 6 wires at each end for the throttle body extension (labelled as a harness in the manual, just 6 wires lol). they should really make this into an adapter clip, for the money you pay for the kit, really didn't expect to be doing things like that. Again lots of bending of pipes/brackets and cutting. you are told twice in the manual to bend the fuel line which is bolted to the front of the engine which goes to the fuel rails. the first bend it tells you to do shows the bent fuel sender at one angle, then later on it tells you to bend it again so you can get the front throttle body plug in, and another picture shows it at a completely different angle.. lol

spent some time also looking at the crash bar for mounting the frozen boost heat exchanger, will do the 180 on the crash bar and will probably end up making a bracket that bolts into the crash bar then to the heat exchanger so I don't have to do much cutting of the front bar, I've had a look at Vlad's and Ivo's way they have done it and will be a combination of both without cutting the crash bar/minimising cutting up the front bar.

installed new spark plugs as well while doing the injectors, went with HKS for those.

the standard spark plugs are different from other normal ones I've seen before, they were a different size so a spark plug socket wouldn't work, so we just used a normal socket to loosen them off and once they were unscrewed, used a magnetic light thing I have to pull them out, not sure what everyone else used here, but I would have been off buying more stuff if it wasn't for the magnetic light thing I have.

another thing not really indicated in the manual is the steps of doing things, a lot of time is wasted with having to undo parts you have already completed in order to make it easier or even fit some other parts on. whoever wrote the manual must have installed many kits beforehand and it's just in their head as the normal install.

It's been fun and frustrating at the same time, but can't wait for it to be finished!

Tomorrow we are onto mounting the supercharger and running more lines.

I use the coil-pack boot to remove and start old/new plugs, works like a champ.

ANMVQ · 07-02-2014, 11:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikey1600

Stillen will flat out say not to do it obviously to cover themselves, even to get the 9lb pulley you have to sign a waiver and in the description it says using this pulley with stock tune or stock stillen tune could result in catastrophic engine failure without getting a custom tune, I mean of course it will if you are red lining the thing with a not designed tune for the increased boost.

after people who have done so if possible

Well your right about they'll say no, Right in the instructions is say in red bold letters , DO NOT START without the tune. Heck I couldn't start mine ON their tune, car would flood out. :/ I have to had it sent back and forth for 3 days to get it right then custom tuned it anyways, Why not just flat bed it to your tuner and let them do it. I'm sure he'll have a base tune to work off on his laptop, mine did.

mikey1600 · 07-02-2014, 11:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ANMVQ

Well your right about they'll say no, Right in the instructions is say in red bold letters , DO NOT START without the tune. Heck I couldn't start mine ON their tune, car would flood out. :/ I have to had it sent back and forth for 3 days to get it right then custom tuned it anyways, Why not just flat bed it to your tuner and let them do it. I'm sure he'll have a base tune to work off on his laptop, mine did.

yeah leaning towards this, wow that's really bad you couldn't even get your car started!

mainly just wanted to start it to make sure there are no leaks, would feel so bad if I got it to the tuner and there was a leak somewhere and they had to fix my work..

Team_STILLEN · 07-02-2014, 11:30 AM

We don't ever start the cars here at STILLEN without a tune. Because of the bigger injectors and the voltage change in signals you would run lean at higher rpm but should be very rich at idle. You might be okay with just turning it on and letting it idle but I can't say for sure and would personally not risk it.

mikey1600 · 07-02-2014, 11:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Team_STILLEN

We don't ever start the cars here at STILLEN without a tune. Because of the bigger injectors and the voltage change in signals you would run very lean. You might be okay with just turning it on and letting it idle but I can't say for sure and would personally not risk it.

fair enough, cheers for the reply, I'm waiting on my stillen tune from the vendor I purchased through, will the standard tune be right to drive to a tuner with the 9lb pulley on? obviously will be shifting low RPM and slow acceleration for low load..

Team_STILLEN · 07-02-2014, 11:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikey1600

fair enough, cheers for the reply, I'm waiting on my stillen tune from the vendor I purchased through, will the standard tune be right to drive to a tuner with the 9lb pulley on? obviously will be shifting low RPM and slow acceleration for low load..

Are you talking about the STILLEN Supercharger tune for the 8lb on a SC with the 9lb pulley? If so it should be fine. If you have the international base tune then I would just go really easy on it. The 9lb pulley builds boost by 2500 rpm and the base tune is really just designed to start the car and give a tuner something to work off of. It should be okay to drive for a short distance but it will be sluggish obviously.

mikey1600 · 07-02-2014, 11:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Team_STILLEN

Are you talking about the STILLEN Supercharger tune for the 8lb on a SC with the 9lb pulley? If so it should be fine. If you have the international base tune then I would just go really easy on it. The 9lb pulley builds boost by 2500 rpm and the base tune is really just designed to start the car and give a tuner something to work off of. It should be okay to drive for a short distance but it will be sluggish obviously.

yeah currently waiting on the international base tune, not sure what the hold up is :S assumed it was readily available.

yeah definitely would take it really easy, majority of the trip 50km (31-32 miles) is highway driving so could cruise along at slightly less than highway speeds around 2k RPM.

swiss370Z · 07-02-2014, 12:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Team_STILLEN

Are you talking about the STILLEN Supercharger tune for the 8lb on a SC with the 9lb pulley? If so it should be fine. If you have the international base tune then I would just go really easy on it. The 9lb pulley builds boost by 2500 rpm and the base tune is really just designed to start the car and give a tuner something to work off of. It should be okay to drive for a short distance but it will be sluggish obviously.

BTW: I think it's great that you assist here!
And the questions clarified.

Team_STILLEN · 07-02-2014, 01:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by swiss370Z

BTW: I think it's great that you assist here!
And the questions clarified.

Always glad to help when possible

07-02-2014, 04:49 AM	#121 (permalink)
mikey1600 Track Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Brisbane, Australia Posts: 503 Drives: MY11 370z Black Rep Power: 16	Day 3; thought I'd throw up a few pictures as well (they have been added to my album), got a fair bit done today. Came up with a really good solution for everyone upgrading to the frozenboost heat exchanger, this involves the lower part of the crash bar frame (not the main beam) and using the arms as brackets so the heat exchanger sits back far enough so you don't have to cut up the front bar + don't have to cut up the crash bar itself. It's a combination between Vlad and Ivo's installs. Measured the heat exchanger to need to sit around 20-25mm behind being flush with the crash beam. You'll still need to remove the standard drain plug and find something to block the hole, I'll be trying to find a Hex key bolt like the one already on the unit in another place, and also cut out a whole in the plastic which screws to the front bar so I can drain the fluid when needed, just like you would with the engine's radiator. I'll label the pictures as Frozenboost so you get the idea, any questions just ask. managed to mount the blower along with the water pump/water reservoir/overflow bottle/plumbing for it and put the new belt on, test fit the intakes to make sure they don't interfere with the heat exchanger positioning. I did have to move the horns, on the Aus models we have a High and Low horn, one is on either side of the front, I've had to move the one from the right (looking at the front of the car) to the left hand side, just used the same bracket as the existing one and put them both onto it. Also tidied up some of the cabling etc in the engine bay, it was starting to get all over the place, so removed some mounts, moved some cables under/over things and redone the mounts. Tomorrow will be heading out first of all to get the water plugs/hex key for drain of the heat exchanger and getting distilled water (already have the MoCool) along with new genuine nissan coolant for engine (as I had to drain it even after being told multiple times would not!) up to page 22 of 37 for tomorrows start after finishing off the cooler stuff, there's not many parts left over now, mainly some wiring to do and some more plumbing, STILL waiting on my tune file.... will be ringing vivid again tonight to try get it, also contacted my tuner and they are seeing if they have anything available from previous stillen installs. ANMVQ, vlad370z and dajw like this.

07-02-2014, 09:39 AM	#122 (permalink)
theDreamer A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Texas Posts: 30,879 Drives: 370z Rep Power: 4210	I'm not 100% sure with the stillen SC kit, but I know with other kits you can potentially drive on the stock tune for a short distance if you need to, to get to your tuner. Just keep it under 3k rpm and out of boost and be cautious, basically keeping the system thinking all is the same. How far is your tuner? Another option might be to tow the car. __________________ theDreamer's Z // Fast Intentions // Uprev // GTM // HKS // TEIN theDreamer's Silvia // URAS // GREDDY Houston Zs // Facebook // Twitter // Instagram

07-02-2014, 09:58 AM	#124 (permalink)
theDreamer A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Texas Posts: 30,879 Drives: 370z Rep Power: 4210	I will have to check with others, because more so on how the stillen moves a few items versus other setups. I know some have started up on a stock tune to check for leaks while waiting and it was ok. __________________ theDreamer's Z // Fast Intentions // Uprev // GTM // HKS // TEIN theDreamer's Silvia // URAS // GREDDY Houston Zs // Facebook // Twitter // Instagram

07-02-2014, 10:11 AM	#125 (permalink)
Z&I Enthusiast Member Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: New Jersey Posts: 410 Drives: '09 370z 6MT FI Rep Power: 12	Double Check with Stillen just to make sure ... __________________ . BB

07-02-2014, 11:30 AM	#130 (permalink)
Team_STILLEN Base Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: Costa Mesa, California Posts: 216 Drives: 2009 370Z Rep Power: 20	We don't ever start the cars here at STILLEN without a tune. Because of the bigger injectors and the voltage change in signals you would run lean at higher rpm but should be very rich at idle. You might be okay with just turning it on and letting it idle but I can't say for sure and would personally not risk it. diego@vossen likes this. __________________ Financing with Affirm now available!!! *STILLEN* \| Robin \| Performance Specialist \| rmoses@stillen.com\| 800.576.2131 x133 \| Last edited by Team_STILLEN; 07-02-2014 at 11:55 AM.

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