Rear Camber / Alignment Settings with Turbos
 

Sorry in advance if this is wrong forum. I can't decide between suspension and FI since it's really an FI-specific suspension question.

Anyway, I am looking to change my rear camber now that I have SPL adjustable rear camber arms. Curious what people have tested and/or run successfully. I want to do some tracking with the car, but it's 95% a street car, so straight line tire patch and traction means a lot.

I suspect I am around negative 1.5-2 degrees now. I have seen negative 0.5 degrees recommended in one thread. I am particularly interested in the settings for those guys (like DJTodd) that are running hard at the track.

IMO, and I'm no expert.

You want camber lockout bolts, and toe bolts, I know my OEM bolts don't have enough adjustment.

You really want camber at 0, almost positive because when the car squats, you get a lot of camber. And your cars squat a lot more than my car

I think my camber arms give me more adjustment than the lockout bolts. Now, as for toe bolts, I may need those.

Paging DJTodd! Resident TT track junkie.

If I was you, and doing a couple of trackdays (road course) a year. I would set the camber to -1.5 ~ -1.7. Drag would be 0 or close to it. I'm running -1.75 and zero toe in the rear.

NEED. The camber arms don't provide much USEFUL adjustment without the bolts (just got my car aligned and just SPL arms was a waste because they couldn't take more camber out without messing up toe big time)

Yeahhhhhhh... This is better, I didn't read or remember reading anything for track usage (I assumed you meant for drag)
Either way, the 370Z is not a rear camber friendly car, especially with that amount of power. (I say that because it squats like a mofo and the multilink suspension throws everything out of whack)

Do you need to buy camber arms to get your camber close to zero if you only have a ~1" drop? (Swift springs)

NEED, no, should you get them? IMO, yes, with toe bolts. The investment cost pays off greatly in tires

There is basically no adjustment with the stock setup and because the car gains negative camber quickly with squat, it's really hard to dial-in the camber you want without an adjustable arm.

Ok lets get some things straight here, IF you are stock height or less than an inch drop you may be able to get away with larger eccentric camber bolts and hit -.5 to -1. If you want to bring the camber to 0 you will need arms. If you want to run less than -1 camber in the rear you will need toe bolts or toe arms. As for lockout bolts, they are not for adjustment they are LOCK OUT bolts. If you are using an adjustable arm you should have lock out bolts on it instead of eccentrics <--you are adjusting it with the arm, not the eccentric. IF YOU INSTALL AN ADJUSTABLE ARM WITHOUT LOCKOUTS YOUR SETTINGS WILL CHANGE. No point in paying extra for spl arms if you still have the eccenrics in there, the settings will still move until you put in lockout bolts.

and the BEST part of 0 rear camber is your tires won't bald out on the inside as fast so you get A LOT more life out of them.

Words of wisdom.

And you can still camber in like a mofo for the front to help aid in traction on turns

Okay, so for the rear I should be good with camber & toe arms, and then 2 sets of lockout bolts. Got it.

The issue is that I believe you cannot just replace the toe arm without going with a full coilover. Otherwise, you need to replace the mid-link, which has a spring perch. SPL makes some lust-worthy mid-links with adjustable perches, but they are very expensive. I would suggest starting with the adjustable camber arms and see if you can get in spec for toe based on your ride height. If you can't, then consider options to deal with toe, like the mid-links.

Okay, I'll see if just the camber arms will do

You do not need toe arms per say I highlighted it in red for you. The only toe arm that works with factory style springs is the spl midlink. if you get a toe arm that doesn't have a perch on it you need true coilovers.

Just to clarify this one more time the toe arm and midlink are the same piece. It's just that some aftermarket replacement arms do no not have a place for the factory spring to push against, requiring you to switch to true coilovers.

Right. I was just describing them the way the aftermarket parts are described from SPL. For whatever reason, they call one a toe arm and one a mid-link.

Ah you said it as if they are two different arms so i just wanted to clear that up

Sent from my HTCONE using Tapatalk

I am running camber and toe arms with swift springs. I set my camber right at 0. Running 305 toyo r888 tires. Between the tires and the alignment, traction is about as good as it is going to get with this suspension setup. I really have no complaints with this setup. 2nd gear and beyond has great traction with minimal slippage.

One thing to keep in mind, camber doesn't have a huge affect on tire wear. 1 or even 2 degrees should not really be noticeable. Toe is what kills tires.

Also, i'm sure zero degrees of camber out back will have a negative affect on handling. Don't drive with unsafe alignment settings.

What camber/toe arms did you go with?

Camber determines where the tire will wear toe says how fast it will wear(basically generalized here there is more to it). when you set the camber and rear toe to 0 you will gain a lot of tire life.

know if you are tracking sometimes you will notice that a front wheel set at -1 or -2 camber will wear on the outside first, due to the cornering loads the weight is still rolling the car on to the outer edge of the tire and you could actually run MORE camber to get even wear.

spl pro

Rear camber set at 0 degrees is far from unsafe...

I'm running -3 camber in the rear with 0 toe. You're saying when I put my camber arms to reduce camber I'll mess up toe? I don't have lock out bolt for toe or camber

yes on a multi link when you change the length of one arm the knuckle that holds the wheel will articulate due to the change, and the arms are designed such that they are not just straight changes to one setting. The toe arm primarily changes toe the camber arm primarily changes camber but they also effect each other as well. this way when you turn a corner you get both a change in camber according to the load to increase grip, and a change in toe so that the wheels will actually steer themselves around the corner a little bit. This is the advantage of a multilink over a double a-arm, is that it is a more dynamic design that can be tuned to adapt itself to changing driving conditions. Setting the rear toe to 0 is far from unsafe because the multilink setup is designed to add a tremendous amount of camber as the wheel is loaded. Setting the camber down in the rear increases the handling balance because from the factory the car likes to understeer.

The suspension on this car is its party piece, it isn't particularly light, nor is it particularly powerfull, but it does have one hell of a suspension setup and the rest of the car is "good enough". Most people don't really appreciate what the 370 is until the take it to a road course and find out it is indeed fast as ****.

Thanks for the reply. So I'll need to get bolts for both camber and toe? They camber lockout toe isn't included in spl kit?

spl does not include the bolts with the kit they sell them separately, talk to DE he can hook you up.