Rear Camber / Alignment Settings with Turbos
 

Sorry in advance if this is wrong forum. I can't decide between suspension and FI since it's really an FI-specific suspension question.

Anyway, I am looking to change my rear camber now that I have SPL adjustable rear camber arms. Curious what people have tested and/or run successfully. I want to do some tracking with the car, but it's 95% a street car, so straight line tire patch and traction means a lot.

I suspect I am around negative 1.5-2 degrees now. I have seen negative 0.5 degrees recommended in one thread. I am particularly interested in the settings for those guys (like DJTodd) that are running hard at the track.

IMO, and I'm no expert.

You want camber lockout bolts, and toe bolts, I know my OEM bolts don't have enough adjustment.

You really want camber at 0, almost positive because when the car squats, you get a lot of camber. And your cars squat a lot more than my car

I think my camber arms give me more adjustment than the lockout bolts. Now, as for toe bolts, I may need those.

Paging DJTodd! Resident TT track junkie.

If I was you, and doing a couple of trackdays (road course) a year. I would set the camber to -1.5 ~ -1.7. Drag would be 0 or close to it. I'm running -1.75 and zero toe in the rear.

NEED. The camber arms don't provide much USEFUL adjustment without the bolts (just got my car aligned and just SPL arms was a waste because they couldn't take more camber out without messing up toe big time)

Yeahhhhhhh... This is better, I didn't read or remember reading anything for track usage (I assumed you meant for drag)
Either way, the 370Z is not a rear camber friendly car, especially with that amount of power. (I say that because it squats like a mofo and the multilink suspension throws everything out of whack)

Do you need to buy camber arms to get your camber close to zero if you only have a ~1" drop? (Swift springs)

NEED, no, should you get them? IMO, yes, with toe bolts. The investment cost pays off greatly in tires

There is basically no adjustment with the stock setup and because the car gains negative camber quickly with squat, it's really hard to dial-in the camber you want without an adjustable arm.

Ok lets get some things straight here, IF you are stock height or less than an inch drop you may be able to get away with larger eccentric camber bolts and hit -.5 to -1. If you want to bring the camber to 0 you will need arms. If you want to run less than -1 camber in the rear you will need toe bolts or toe arms. As for lockout bolts, they are not for adjustment they are LOCK OUT bolts. If you are using an adjustable arm you should have lock out bolts on it instead of eccentrics <--you are adjusting it with the arm, not the eccentric. IF YOU INSTALL AN ADJUSTABLE ARM WITHOUT LOCKOUTS YOUR SETTINGS WILL CHANGE. No point in paying extra for spl arms if you still have the eccenrics in there, the settings will still move until you put in lockout bolts.

and the BEST part of 0 rear camber is your tires won't bald out on the inside as fast so you get A LOT more life out of them.

Words of wisdom.

And you can still camber in like a mofo for the front to help aid in traction on turns

Okay, so for the rear I should be good with camber & toe arms, and then 2 sets of lockout bolts. Got it.

The issue is that I believe you cannot just replace the toe arm without going with a full coilover. Otherwise, you need to replace the mid-link, which has a spring perch. SPL makes some lust-worthy mid-links with adjustable perches, but they are very expensive. I would suggest starting with the adjustable camber arms and see if you can get in spec for toe based on your ride height. If you can't, then consider options to deal with toe, like the mid-links.

Okay, I'll see if just the camber arms will do