Rear Camber / Alignment Settings with Turbos

Nixlimited · 06-04-2014, 05:52 PM

Sorry in advance if this is wrong forum. I can't decide between suspension and FI since it's really an FI-specific suspension question.

Anyway, I am looking to change my rear camber now that I have SPL adjustable rear camber arms. Curious what people have tested and/or run successfully. I want to do some tracking with the car, but it's 95% a street car, so straight line tire patch and traction means a lot.

I suspect I am around negative 1.5-2 degrees now. I have seen negative 0.5 degrees recommended in one thread. I am particularly interested in the settings for those guys (like DJTodd) that are running hard at the track.

DEpointfive0 · 06-04-2014, 05:54 PM

IMO, and I'm no expert.

You want camber lockout bolts, and toe bolts, I know my OEM bolts don't have enough adjustment.

You really want camber at 0, almost positive because when the car squats, you get a lot of camber. And your cars squat a lot more than my car

Nixlimited · 06-04-2014, 05:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DEpointfive0

IMO, and I'm no expert.

You want camber lockout bolts, and toe bolts, I know my OEM bolts don't have enough adjustment.

You really want camber at 0, almost positive because when the car squats, you get a lot of camber. And your cars squat a lot more than my car

I think my camber arms give me more adjustment than the lockout bolts. Now, as for toe bolts, I may need those.

Nixlimited · 06-05-2014, 01:25 PM

Paging DJTodd! Resident TT track junkie.

Rusty · 06-05-2014, 08:05 PM

If I was you, and doing a couple of trackdays (road course) a year. I would set the camber to -1.5 ~ -1.7. Drag would be 0 or close to it. I'm running -1.75 and zero toe in the rear.

DEpointfive0 · 06-05-2014, 08:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nixlimited

I think my camber arms give me more adjustment than the lockout bolts. Now, as for toe bolts, I may need those.

NEED. The camber arms don't provide much USEFUL adjustment without the bolts (just got my car aligned and just SPL arms was a waste because they couldn't take more camber out without messing up toe big time)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty

If I was you, and doing a couple of trackdays (road course) a year. I would set the camber to -1.5 ~ -1.7. Drag would be 0 or close to it. I'm running -1.75 and zero toe in the rear.

Yeahhhhhhh... This is better, I didn't read or remember reading anything for track usage (I assumed you meant for drag)
Either way, the 370Z is not a rear camber friendly car, especially with that amount of power. (I say that because it squats like a mofo and the multilink suspension throws everything out of whack)

R3drckt09 · 06-05-2014, 08:21 PM

Do you need to buy camber arms to get your camber close to zero if you only have a ~1" drop? (Swift springs)

DEpointfive0 · 06-05-2014, 08:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by R3drckt09

Do you need to buy camber arms to get your camber close to zero if you only have a ~1" drop? (Swift springs)

NEED, no, should you get them? IMO, yes, with toe bolts. The investment cost pays off greatly in tires

Nixlimited · 06-06-2014, 12:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DEpointfive0

NEED, no, should you get them? IMO, yes, with toe bolts. The investment cost pays off greatly in tires

There is basically no adjustment with the stock setup and because the car gains negative camber quickly with squat, it's really hard to dial-in the camber you want without an adjustable arm.

1slow370 · 06-06-2014, 02:57 AM

Ok lets get some things straight here, IF you are stock height or less than an inch drop you may be able to get away with larger eccentric camber bolts and hit -.5 to -1. If you want to bring the camber to 0 you will need arms. If you want to run less than -1 camber in the rear you will need toe bolts or toe arms. As for lockout bolts, they are not for adjustment they are LOCK OUT bolts. If you are using an adjustable arm you should have lock out bolts on it instead of eccentrics <--you are adjusting it with the arm, not the eccentric. IF YOU INSTALL AN ADJUSTABLE ARM WITHOUT LOCKOUTS YOUR SETTINGS WILL CHANGE. No point in paying extra for spl arms if you still have the eccenrics in there, the settings will still move until you put in lockout bolts.

1slow370 · 06-06-2014, 03:00 AM

and the BEST part of 0 rear camber is your tires won't bald out on the inside as fast so you get A LOT more life out of them.

DEpointfive0 · 06-06-2014, 03:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1slow370

Ok lets get some things straight here, IF you are stock height or less than an inch drop you may be able to get away with larger eccentric camber bolts and hit -.5 to -1. If you want to bring the camber to 0 you will need arms. If you want to run less than -1 camber in the rear you will need toe bolts or toe arms. As for lockout bolts, they are not for adjustment they are LOCK OUT bolts. If you are using an adjustable arm you should have lock out bolts on it instead of eccentrics <--you are adjusting it with the arm, not the eccentric. IF YOU INSTALL AN ADJUSTABLE ARM WITHOUT LOCKOUTS YOUR SETTINGS WILL CHANGE. No point in paying extra for spl arms if you still have the eccenrics in there, the settings will still move until you put in lockout bolts.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1slow370

and the BEST part of 0 rear camber is your tires won't bald out on the inside as fast so you get A LOT more life out of them.

Words of wisdom.

And you can still camber in like a mofo for the front to help aid in traction on turns

R3drckt09 · 06-06-2014, 12:50 PM

Okay, so for the rear I should be good with camber & toe arms, and then 2 sets of lockout bolts. Got it.

Nixlimited · 06-06-2014, 01:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by R3drckt09

Okay, so for the rear I should be good with camber & toe arms, and then 2 sets of lockout bolts. Got it.

The issue is that I believe you cannot just replace the toe arm without going with a full coilover. Otherwise, you need to replace the mid-link, which has a spring perch. SPL makes some lust-worthy mid-links with adjustable perches, but they are very expensive. I would suggest starting with the adjustable camber arms and see if you can get in spec for toe based on your ride height. If you can't, then consider options to deal with toe, like the mid-links.

R3drckt09 · 06-06-2014, 01:13 PM

Okay, I'll see if just the camber arms will do

06-04-2014, 05:52 PM	#1 (permalink)
Nixlimited A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: San Diego Posts: 1,235 Drives: 15 GT-R / 11 Prius Rep Power: 26	Rear Camber / Alignment Settings with Turbos Sorry in advance if this is wrong forum. I can't decide between suspension and FI since it's really an FI-specific suspension question. Anyway, I am looking to change my rear camber now that I have SPL adjustable rear camber arms. Curious what people have tested and/or run successfully. I want to do some tracking with the car, but it's 95% a street car, so straight line tire patch and traction means a lot. I suspect I am around negative 1.5-2 degrees now. I have seen negative 0.5 degrees recommended in one thread. I am particularly interested in the settings for those guys (like DJTodd) that are running hard at the track. __________________ Car Sold! Pleasure being a part of the Z community. New ride: 2015 GT-R - 647 WHP / 641 WTQ (e85) & 543 WHP / 519 WTQ (91) Last edited by Nixlimited; 06-04-2014 at 05:55 PM.

06-04-2014, 05:54 PM	#2 (permalink)
DEpointfive0 Premium Member Bitches Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: SoCal Posts: 14,824 Drives: a lot Rep Power: 17151	IMO, and I'm no expert. You want camber lockout bolts, and toe bolts, I know my OEM bolts don't have enough adjustment. You really want camber at 0, almost positive because when the car squats, you get a lot of camber. And your cars squat a lot more than my car __________________ Do YOU want to know what/where I got my username from? ( Click to show/hide ) NSFW due to language:

06-05-2014, 01:25 PM	#4 (permalink)
Nixlimited A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: San Diego Posts: 1,235 Drives: 15 GT-R / 11 Prius Rep Power: 26	Paging DJTodd! Resident TT track junkie. GaleForce likes this. __________________ Car Sold! Pleasure being a part of the Z community. New ride: 2015 GT-R - 647 WHP / 641 WTQ (e85) & 543 WHP / 519 WTQ (91)

06-05-2014, 08:05 PM	#5 (permalink)
Rusty Ronin Samurai - Assassin Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky Age: 68 Posts: 35,174 Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M Rep Power: 2684437	If I was you, and doing a couple of trackdays (road course) a year. I would set the camber to -1.5 ~ -1.7. Drag would be 0 or close to it. I'm running -1.75 and zero toe in the rear. __________________ 浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

06-06-2014, 02:57 AM	#10 (permalink)
1slow370 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: In the D Posts: 3,732 Drives: v8 74 260z ;) Rep Power: 7251	Ok lets get some things straight here, IF you are stock height or less than an inch drop you may be able to get away with larger eccentric camber bolts and hit -.5 to -1. If you want to bring the camber to 0 you will need arms. If you want to run less than -1 camber in the rear you will need toe bolts or toe arms. As for lockout bolts, they are not for adjustment they are LOCK OUT bolts. If you are using an adjustable arm you should have lock out bolts on it instead of eccentrics <--you are adjusting it with the arm, not the eccentric. IF YOU INSTALL AN ADJUSTABLE ARM WITHOUT LOCKOUTS YOUR SETTINGS WILL CHANGE. No point in paying extra for spl arms if you still have the eccenrics in there, the settings will still move until you put in lockout bolts. GaleForce, DEpointfive0 and zefaulter like this. __________________ ANSWER PRICE LIST Answers - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - $0.75 Answers (requiring thought) - - - - $1.25 Answers (correct) - - - - - - - - - - $12.50

06-05-2014, 08:21 PM	#7 (permalink)
R3drckt09 Base Member Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: Texas Posts: 145 Drives: 09 Nissan 370Z Base Rep Power: 12	Do you need to buy camber arms to get your camber close to zero if you only have a ~1" drop? (Swift springs)

06-06-2014, 03:00 AM	#11 (permalink)
1slow370 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: In the D Posts: 3,732 Drives: v8 74 260z ;) Rep Power: 7251	and the BEST part of 0 rear camber is your tires won't bald out on the inside as fast so you get A LOT more life out of them. __________________ ANSWER PRICE LIST Answers - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - $0.75 Answers (requiring thought) - - - - $1.25 Answers (correct) - - - - - - - - - - $12.50

06-06-2014, 12:50 PM	#13 (permalink)
R3drckt09 Base Member Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: Texas Posts: 145 Drives: 09 Nissan 370Z Base Rep Power: 12	Okay, so for the rear I should be good with camber & toe arms, and then 2 sets of lockout bolts. Got it.

06-06-2014, 01:13 PM	#15 (permalink)
R3drckt09 Base Member Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: Texas Posts: 145 Drives: 09 Nissan 370Z Base Rep Power: 12	Okay, I'll see if just the camber arms will do

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