You do not need toe arms per say I highlighted it in red for you. The only toe arm that works with factory style springs is the spl midlink. if you get a toe arm that doesn't have a perch on it you need true coilovers.

Just to clarify this one more time the toe arm and midlink are the same piece. It's just that some aftermarket replacement arms do no not have a place for the factory spring to push against, requiring you to switch to true coilovers.

Right. I was just describing them the way the aftermarket parts are described from SPL. For whatever reason, they call one a toe arm and one a mid-link.

Ah you said it as if they are two different arms so i just wanted to clear that up

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I am running camber and toe arms with swift springs. I set my camber right at 0. Running 305 toyo r888 tires. Between the tires and the alignment, traction is about as good as it is going to get with this suspension setup. I really have no complaints with this setup. 2nd gear and beyond has great traction with minimal slippage.

One thing to keep in mind, camber doesn't have a huge affect on tire wear. 1 or even 2 degrees should not really be noticeable. Toe is what kills tires.

Also, i'm sure zero degrees of camber out back will have a negative affect on handling. Don't drive with unsafe alignment settings.

What camber/toe arms did you go with?

Camber determines where the tire will wear toe says how fast it will wear(basically generalized here there is more to it). when you set the camber and rear toe to 0 you will gain a lot of tire life.

know if you are tracking sometimes you will notice that a front wheel set at -1 or -2 camber will wear on the outside first, due to the cornering loads the weight is still rolling the car on to the outer edge of the tire and you could actually run MORE camber to get even wear.

spl pro

Rear camber set at 0 degrees is far from unsafe...

I'm running -3 camber in the rear with 0 toe. You're saying when I put my camber arms to reduce camber I'll mess up toe? I don't have lock out bolt for toe or camber

yes on a multi link when you change the length of one arm the knuckle that holds the wheel will articulate due to the change, and the arms are designed such that they are not just straight changes to one setting. The toe arm primarily changes toe the camber arm primarily changes camber but they also effect each other as well. this way when you turn a corner you get both a change in camber according to the load to increase grip, and a change in toe so that the wheels will actually steer themselves around the corner a little bit. This is the advantage of a multilink over a double a-arm, is that it is a more dynamic design that can be tuned to adapt itself to changing driving conditions. Setting the rear toe to 0 is far from unsafe because the multilink setup is designed to add a tremendous amount of camber as the wheel is loaded. Setting the camber down in the rear increases the handling balance because from the factory the car likes to understeer.

The suspension on this car is its party piece, it isn't particularly light, nor is it particularly powerfull, but it does have one hell of a suspension setup and the rest of the car is "good enough". Most people don't really appreciate what the 370 is until the take it to a road course and find out it is indeed fast as ****.

Thanks for the reply. So I'll need to get bolts for both camber and toe? They camber lockout toe isn't included in spl kit?

spl does not include the bolts with the kit they sell them separately, talk to DE he can hook you up.