Brake Boosting
 

Just out of curiosity, I am hoping to single turbo right after chirstmas this year, but is this possible? I know I have tried playing around with the Z going down the road and holding the brake while applying the gas and get nothing. I also know you can not power brake the car. The ECU recognizes you are on the brake and doesn't apply power.

Again just wondering, I tried searching and came up with nothing.

Allegedly, some of the ROMS in uprev now have a option that turns off the brake on/throttle kill issue.

EDIT: see this thread. http://www.the370z.com/tuning/84786-...ifference.html this post http://www.the370z.com/tuning/84786-...ml#post2657055

I have a 2010 and my rom isn't supported :/

Won't pulling the brake light fuse enable one to power brake? Or am I thinking of something else?

Cut the brake signal wire to the ecu and put a switch inline. Turn off the switch when you want to do it.

^^^ these are the other two ways :tup:

Phunk you got a link for a DYI on locating and which wire exactly? Would I just splice in at the fuse box? Also I remember reading somewhere on here the fuse pulling method which I am assuming will accomplish the same as splicing and switching it throw all the dash lights on? And then I could have swore to turn them off you have to disconnect the power terminal and reconnect?

I had a switch built into my 350z that would turn off the brake lights when I wanted to do a burn out

I think details can be found here http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...ml#post2682497

I dont, but I can help you with some information from the FSM.

Pulling the fuse is the easy way to do it, but I believe this will cause your brake lights to no longer work, which is not suitable for street or road course use.

Information from the Nissan FSM, copied and pasted (property of Nissan):

P1805 BRAKE SWITCH
Description: Brake switch signal is applied to the ECM through the stop lamp switch when the brake pedal is depressed. This signal is used mainly to decrease the engine speed when the vehicle is being driven.

DTC detecting condition
A brake switch signal is not sent to ECM for extremely
long time while the vehicle is being driven.

3. Check the continuity between stop lamp switch harness connector and ECM harness connector.
Stop lamp switch Connector E110 Terminal 2
ECM Connector M107 Terminal 122


Looking at the ECU Pinout I confirm that terminal 122 at the ECU is the stop lamp signal input. Looks like it is a pink wire.

Also reconfirming this is the Connector M107 layout from the FSM. I have attached an image of a screen shot I took of this connector.

So in summary; You have 3 large connectors at the ECU. Find the one that matches the attached image and pin 122 is the pink wire for brake signal input. If you disconnect this wire, you can brake boost without losing your brake lights. But if you leave it disconnected too long you will get DTC Code P1805. This is why you would rather put a switch inline here rather than just cut the wire... so you can open the circuit when you want to brake boost without interference by the ECM, and then reconnect the signal later so you do not get the code. An alternative could be to disable P1805 in the ECM if you have UpRev. Which I think I might go ahead and do now next time I am in my ECU... then I can just de-pin terminal 122 without cutting the wire... to this day my cars wiring is all un-cut minus my injector sub-harness... prefer to keep it that way personally.

Thank you, will be going this route and saved the whole comment in my build info file.

So putting a switch on the purple wire turns off all electronic nannies, but a switch disconnecting the yaw sensor removed everything except ABS?

The switch on the pink wire will only allow you to give throttle input while pressing the brakes. It should have no other known effects on the "nannies". At least, nothing is mentioned of it in the service manual description of the circuit's purpose. But perhaps it could have its own contribution to your freedoms when applied with other nanny-reduction techniques.

BTW: Update on the brake/throttle limiter -- apparently that is NOT available at present for VHR engines as in the 370Z, confirmed by Megan370z (thanks again for checking on that! :tup: ).

So, for now, you need to follow the other methods if you want to do this.

I just did this myself and disabled the DTC P1805 code with uprev, so far no issues at all, brake + gas working as expected without ecu interruption. For anyone looking to do this, the wire color is actually Pink (P), not purple, its the last ecu connector furthest from the firewall. Be sure you cut the correct pink wire, the other pink wire is for the vehicle CAN.

Once you disconnect the plug and remove the pin cover you can trace the wire you want and cut or de-pin, I highlighted the wire here when looking from the back of the connector which is how the FSM picture phunk attached above shows it:

http://i.imgur.com/onotfEr.jpg

Thanks. Updated my posts to say pink instead of purple.

For everybody's general information..

Below sketch explains why intercepting the Pink wire at T122 is better than pulling Fuse No. 7. I traced back what else gets deactivated by pulling the fuse. As we can see, it both disables the rear brake lights and signalling the ABS actuator control unit.
I found out the other end of the pink wire terminates at terminal 3B of connector M2 of the driver side Fuse Box. I find this very helpful because it's much easier to intercept the pink wire at Connector M2 than on connector M107 of the ECM. All I needed was 30cm of 2-core wire running to a switch that I conveniently placed on the trim panel underneath the steering column.
http://www.prelude.myzen.co.uk/370Z/bin/Burnout.jpg

Sorry to revive an old thread but im trying to find some answers to this. I have intercepted the pink wire in the front most connector to the ECU (furthest away from firewall) and upon hitting the brake I see 12v on one side and nothing on the other side so I feel its the correct wire but disconnected I still get throttle cut during brake + gas... any ideas?

I soldered and heat shrunk the wires and the electrical tape is temporary until I bundle and reinstall glove box)


http://s33.postimg.org/e2y0ptj7z/201...16_resized.jpg

That is strange!

Anyone else with a 2014 able to comment on if this no longer works on this model year? We can see from V1H post that it still works on a 2013, but its entirely possible Nissan changed something for 2014.

That would be a bummer m8
To be fair I'm not really using brake boosting at all; could do w/o it, too.



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I just feel like it would be an asset to have and to warm tires at the track. It really seems like 2014 has a change because I promise my cut is still present.

On a side not does this look like the correct rpm wave source for my aem Uego failsafe?

http://s33.postimg.org/5ynsoba4v/201...52_resized.jpg

Just did this awesome hack on my 09 TT nismo and it definitely works! Brake boosting is a game changer. But did anyone have issues with the windows not going up automatically anymore? They'll roll down automatically but not up. Tried resetting the windows a bunch of times, no luck. Any suggestions?

Thats gonna be an unrelated issue! Sometimes its a hassle to get them to reset. Its been a really long time since I did it, but dont you have to set them at the top, and at the bottom?

I reset them at the top and bottom, heard the clicks, reset with the switch on and off, nothing. I tried just about every variation of window resetting here on the forum. The switch went in Friday night and I thought by today I might be able to reset. It probably is unrelated but I never had this problem before the switch went in so figured I'd ask. I'll disconnect the battery again tonight and keep trying.

This will work for waterbox burnouts at the track right? To be able to do something get like this?

Yup works great for burnouts

Awesome...finally a solution

Just discovered that u can avoid all the re-wirings and fusepulling with EcuTek's software which allows u (via tuner) to Hijack the Throttle. Here's a vid of the Throttle Hijack enabled. Thnx to Seb @ Specialty Z.

Just tried this on a 2016 370z Nismo and can confirm it no longer works. Yes used the right wire and yes Traction control was off.
Has anyone found a work around for new 370s?

If anyone can post a 2016 service manual i will see if I can figure out why it no longer works. I am assuming they are no longer getting the brake switch signal straight from the switch now... its probably trickling in through the CAN now or something.

Finally took a moment to peek in there.

According to the 2016 service manual the function and circuit is the same. The brake switch is wired to terminal 122 of connector M107 at the ECU.

See page EC-473 and 474 where it describes the functional and diagnostics.

Hey phunk, does this method still allow retaining the ABS?

It has no known effect on ABS

Sadly, ecutek cannot disable the brakeoverride if the yaw sensor is disconnected as there is an interlock with the slip light. Looks like the pink wire may be the only solution if you want full control of the car