Forced Induction motors that have died

jwick

It's recommended to do the fuel pump relay above 500whp regardless of fuel pump used.

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'10 G37T 6MT Graphite/Graphite - BP - G37T Build

shadow85

What is the fuel pump relay?

Is that something like the CJM S1.SE fuel system?

jwick

Do your research. Every question you've asked is covered on this forum already. Use the search function.

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'10 G37T 6MT Graphite/Graphite - BP - G37T Build

phunk

A fuel pump relay kit is a modification to upgrade the wiring to the fuel pump. Larger fuel pumps pull more current and the factory fuel pump wiring circuit will become a "restriction".

The relay/wiring upgrade is a standalone modification from the rest of the fuel system. Although the CJM Billet Top Hat really finishes off the relay/wiring upgrade because it uses larger terminals through the fuel tank flange. Using the stock top hat means that your wiring upgrade still has to bottle neck down to fit through the stock fuel pump wiring connector.

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jchammond

Did we hear of maybe 3 blown boosted engine's? That's pretty few for 1.5years of thread....

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MazWorx built long block | FI-TT-100 Stage 2.75 | IPT built 7A/T

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KN21283

So without the relay kit, would it cause low throttle voltage?

I'm having trouble with low voltage and trying to figure it out any *info would be appreciated.

Optimiser

Until it happens to you!

phunk

it would be unrelated to the throttle. At least, I cannot imagine it having any adverse side effects on other systems in the vehicle. But I am no electrical engineer. Without the relay kit on an upgraded fuel pump, the fuel pump wiring will be overheating and could be preventing the fuel pump from operating at full system voltage, reducing its output.

I have run the stock wiring (in my personal car) with an Aero 340 and with a Walbro 400 and the wires get impressively hot. Surprising it never blew a fuse or melted a relay but there is no doubt that the pump is not operating at its peak like this. I did start melting the plastic around the terminals on the stock fuel pump hat.

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jchammond

Your question about low throttle voltage Doesn't have anything to do with the explanation that Mr."Phunk" gave about upgrading the wiring to the fuel pump/pumps...It's about preventing a restriction in the wiring;that would keep plenty of juice to the pump/without overheating the circuit...(Look up OHM's LAW & Study).
Another thing you can research is a good (Wire Sizing Chart) to let you know the recommended size wires to be used in a circuit-pending amperage draw & length of wire in an automotive circuit.
I know this is just barely scratching the surface of electrical connection's,wiring,relay's,voltage,amperage,etc.. .& i apologize for getting off topic with the electrical conversation;as i know this is about (FI) engine's.
Also Voltage is used in different automotive circuit's,sensor's in different value's....not alway's battery voltage.
Good Explanation Mr."Phunk"

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MazWorx built long block | FI-TT-100 Stage 2.75 | IPT built 7A/T

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EliteXpress

Just like anything, when building a house you want to add the supporting mods to the structure to ensure longevity.

Fuel management is the same for our platforms when running BOOST. On my build, I sometimes experienced fuel starvation while running the Aeromotive 340 pump even at only 10 PSI running a mixed e85 blend. One advantage of having a fuel content analyzer, I would cut the blend to e68-e70 to keep things happy until we upgraded to the new CJM Top Hat along with a Walbro 450. Now she sits nice and rich under wide open throttle even while utilizing pure e85 up top to red line.

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Boosted Performance Kit Built By JMS Racing 700whp. IG: @EliteXpress370z

ANMVQ

To answer both question I think air temp had something to do with it, but the tune and the way"YES" Rob the tuner went about things probably had more to do with it. I was'nt making an WOT pull went my car starting knocking, I was getting of the hw " off ramp" to pick my with up at school. In the three days a drove it maybe made 3 WOT pulls :/. I didn't beat on the car.


You had you car tuned in MA Jay?

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14 Q50 AWD, ARK, ECUTEK (SEB), Takda,

JWillis72

He tuned my car in Florida, he's good friends with the shop owner here. I'm not saying he was responsible for my blown motor, that was a cracked radiator and being stuck in crazy traffic but he never had my car where I felt it was right. Seb had my car running better within the first couple flashes.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

ANMVQ

I'm sure he was, . Sorry man, Like I said wish I knew about Seb 3+ years ago when all my crap happened

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14 Q50 AWD, ARK, ECUTEK (SEB), Takda,

solidus

What was the WHP? 443 (mustang)
What wtrq? 373
How long did it run before it died? 2months (1 day after tune )
Was it ever 100% running right before it died? No
What kit? BP 6266 1.5ar ,
What PSI? 7.5
What was the cause if you know? Overboost due to vacuum leak. 23.7psi
What year was the car? 2015



I had installed the BP kit and it took awhile to work out heat related gremlins such as melted trans harness and melted filter. I "thought" it was over. Took it to dyno after everything was buttoned up hoping to tune for 12psi. It kept spiking at 16.5 on the dyno so the tuner turned off the ebc assuming I had a BC solenoid problem. finished the tune at wastegate using the 7.5 springs and yielded the above listed numbers. I was "Ok" with it since I knew I needed to work out some issues. The very next day I take it for a spin and it felt "Very good" better than it had since driving it only on the base map. On my way home I had an opportunity in the form of a wide open road. I WOT'd it and it felt beyond good all the way through 4th gear. At the top of fourth it felt like a 200 shot nitrous hit for about 3 second. Then there was silence and wind noise. No exhaust, no thumping or clanking, just silence and wind. Took me a bit to absorb it but I located a 7.5kmile engine from another 15' Nismo and started over. When the install was done, the oil pan from the old engine was filled with shattered metal. Looked like a silver prospector borrowed it. After nursing the car from the shop to my house I noted I was still getting spikes of 13-14psi on wastegate without EBC plumbing. Pulled all the vacuum to replace it and found a hole burned in the line to the passenger side wastegate. After replacement boost was stable with zero spikes over wastegate pressure. Put EBC plumbing back and all thats left is to fine tune the EBC.

Kris9884

Dang. Its a shame all that time and money spent replacing the motor was due to a simple leaky hose. I bet it felt great for those few seconds though

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