Originally Posted by blackonorange How was it tuned with out Afr gauge tom? Yikes I'd assume the tuner used the tailpipe sniffer. I hope. The other option is that he's
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04-29-2014, 02:54 PM | #16 (permalink) |
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I'd assume the tuner used the tailpipe sniffer. I hope. The other option is that he's still on the GTM base map which is so rich it likely fouled his plugs to this point.
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04-29-2014, 03:03 PM | #17 (permalink) |
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I am not familiar with your setup but when I had my supercharged BMW 330, I had a similar problem to yours. It turned out to be the MAF sensor going bad. I am not sure if your system uses a MAF but if it does, I would definitely check that.
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04-29-2014, 03:13 PM | #19 (permalink) |
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How does that even work?
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04-29-2014, 03:18 PM | #20 (permalink) |
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Hey Kelby, their sniffer works now. Plus you don't need a physical gauge to tune, its just a medium for displaying information... I'm not sure if it is their base map or not. The car was datalogged a few times and reflashed with a new tune so it has to be somewhat custom.
I also pulled out a plug today and looked at it. Sure it was a little sooty, but not any worse than I have seen from any normal vehicle, still made a good strong spark... I'm thinking there might be something under the fuel rails that didn't get plugged back in when I had it all apart to fix a leak, so that is what I am currently checking. Also pulled out the mafs and had a look at them, spotless, not a speck of dirt or oil on them. Even checked them with a multimeter and seemed to be good.
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04-29-2014, 05:48 PM | #21 (permalink) |
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UPDATE : I tore the intake down to the fuel rail to see if any connections were off, they were all good. Compression is good, no particles in the oil. Crank sensor looked good... So I tossed everything back on, reflashed it to a stock map and tried to start it, all it will do is crank. Reflashed it with a safe boosted map and same thing, all it will do is crank.
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04-30-2014, 11:39 AM | #23 (permalink) |
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Yeah I tried that, nothing. I even tried spraying in some starting fluid while cranking, also nothing. It should have at least fired from that.
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04-30-2014, 11:40 AM | #24 (permalink) |
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That's making me believe there's a spark issue, but you're saying all of the coil packs seem ok and the plugs are ok?
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04-30-2014, 11:51 AM | #25 (permalink) |
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Yeah. I even checked with a coil, pulled it out, found a random spark plug laying around, grounded it, and it made a nice spark... Computer still spit out that U1024 code and one about vvel. Something about the computers not being able to communicate to each other.
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04-30-2014, 11:54 AM | #26 (permalink) |
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A coil, or ALL coils? Fried ECU maybe?
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04-30-2014, 12:02 PM | #27 (permalink) |
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I tried a coil... Even if only one was working, it would still try to run as a single cylinder. Maybe a fried comp. I guess I can try and talk to a stealership about it... Since in theory the only thing the kit changes is a few mechanical changes, and a reflash... Nothing electrical
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04-30-2014, 12:05 PM | #28 (permalink) |
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Did you get the U1024 before the reflash with the new safe map, or after? A bad ecu wouldn't slowly crap out, right? So you have a mechanical issue with the slowly reduced performance, and an electrical/ECU issue with the code and not starting?
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04-30-2014, 12:10 PM | #29 (permalink) |
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It's hard to say. Cipher wouldn't pick up any of those codes. It took my buddies professional reader to pick up on it... And I could only get that good reader onto it after I had put on a safe map, and by then it wasn't starting no matter what map is on it, stock or the safe one. And I can't even think of what mechanical issue could be wrog, I've gone over everything. I'm just running out of ideas.
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04-30-2014, 12:13 PM | #30 (permalink) |
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So you're getting fuel, you've got spark. I'm out of ideas unless the ecu is just bricked. The 2800 rpm at idle thing is really odd.
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