Just did mine the other day, you can bend the hard line enough to fit the tap with the Stillen intake. Just out a pair of pliers or something right at the inlet to the dampener so it doesn't bend right there and you'll be fine.

I added a 1/8" NPT 45* elbow to move the gauge out of the way a bit since I have a bit more going on in that area. Worked like a charm.
http://www.the370z.com/members/chase...6-img-1238.jpg

Now, this OEM regulator. I remember reading earlier that the Stillen instructions were erroneous in saying to use a 7/16 drill bit. Was it supposed to be 7/64... can someone clarify, I'm pulling mine out right now to drill it and get my psi into spec. Thanks :)

Edit: copy of the Stillen instructions
http://www.the370z.com/members/chase...8-img-2817.jpg

According to that instruction image, it says they supplied the drill bits. So you could ignore the incorrect description of 7/16 and use the supplied bit, assuming they didnt actually send you a 7/16 which is almost a half inch diameter and obviously too large.

So I'm installing the S1.SE system in my Z before installing my Boosted Performance turbo kit.

I have a 2016 Nismo and it appears they have updated the stock top hat and wiring. Unfortunately the wiring is different than what's in the fuel pump tech guide.

The fuel temp sensor has two yellow wires instead of a yellow and black so the two black wires aren't together like the guide shows.

https://i.imgur.com/JZHB9GRl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/05S4vJal.jpg

I do have the DW fuel relay kit. Are there any install instructions or wiring guide for this other than the universal instructions from Deatschewerks?

So I assume I'm only supposed to use the sensor wires from the stock wiring harness? Is there a diagram showing what colors do what on the stock external connector? Mine looks totally different than whats in the guide.

https://i.imgur.com/y8mVVvIl.jpghttps://i.imgur.com/1798mxql.jpg

I have seen those before. You wont need to do much differently with the wiring. You have 6 wires and our connector has 6 positions... so you will just use all 6 rather than only 5 like the older hat connectors.

We can trace each wire with your pictures.

Bottom side:
Black & Blue = Fuel Pump
Red & Black = Level Sensor
Yellow & Yellow = Temp Sensor

If you look at the connector for the top side, you can discover the purpose of each individual wire by flipping over the hat and seeing where each one comes out on the bottom. In your pics we can see that

Top Side:
Pink & Black = Fuel Pump
Yellow & White = Level Sensor
Black & Red = Temp Sensor

You can crimp the terminals and connect each wire coordinating the same as the stock connector and its all set to go. I would recommend using a multi-meter continuity test function to verify each relationship... but the pics make it appear easy to tell which is which.

Just for reference, polarity on the sensors is of no consequence. It only matters for the pump. But may as well match up the polarity too. So again, if you look at the top connector.. the pink wire comes in, and then comes out the bottom as a blue wire. So with the new connector kit, you will do the same thing... pink on top leads to blue on bottom. And then move over to the next wire (heavier gauge black goes in top, comes out bottom as heavier gauge black), and so fourth, until all 6 are done.

For wiring the Relay Kit.. skip the stock fuel pump connectors ground and ground the fuel pump to chassis (using the small skimpy stock ground defeats the purpose of using a relay kit on the power side). Use the relay kit's instructions for connecting the power side to the pump connector... which means you will use the Pink wire in the stock top-side connector to activate the relay in the relay kit.

You are the man! Thanks for breaking it down for me!

No problem.. thanks for posting those pics. I saved them and I will use them to create an additional pinout for future installers.

Awesome! I'll post some more pictures when I have it finished and let me know if there are any other pictures you need while I have everything out.

For anyone else trying to feed the new 6an line up through the bottom of the tank, I fished some 14ga wire down from the top, tied it to the 90* fitting and use that to help pull the new line up.

I see quite a few posts regarding the venturi system, and to be honest, I only started learning about the venturi system while investigating the fuel starvation issue.

Is the venturi system considered a wear item? Would a new fuel pump assembly create a stronger venturi flow, mitigating starvation? I'm debating between replacing the fuel pump assembly vs going with the aftermarket setup. The car does see regular track time.

The venturi system is not a wear item. I tend to call them "solid state" devices, though I don't think the term is applicable, it just sounds intuitive in my head to describe it. There are no moving parts, the only potential wear would be erosion, and I am guessing none of us will live long enough to see it in our venturi. Debris could very easily clog one, as they have pinhole sized orifices'. But, they are fed only post-filter fuel (with a stock fuel system, no promises its being filtered with DIY custom setups).

I am pretty close to pulling the trigger on another accessory for our twin pump hanger that would add a filter and regulator to it, so that it could be used a direct replacement to the entire stock sending unit and not even require a return system to use it. This accessory might be the only thing I am currently missing to truly have something for everyone again in regards to the fuel system.

Hi Phunk,

Oh man, I need to find how to adjust notification settings because I didn't see that you had replied so quickly until now after manually checking the threads I've replied to.

I'm connecting the dots together and I realize you and I were just emailing each other. I didn't know you are THE Charles :).

I think a filter/regulator accessory would be great considering the twin pump can only be used with a return setup, and since I'm in California, I'm not confident the return setup will be a carb legal solution LOL. I do have the anti fuel starvation kit and I need to dig back into the tank and optimize it because I'm not confident it's working... I'm at my wits end trying to understand why it's so hard for manufacturers to prevent the issue. what happened to the days of tank welded metal baskets?

I think if the Twin Pump / Canister Kit can be used with the factory setup, I think it would be easier to justify it for track junkies like myself that isn't (yet) after big power, battling starvation, all while trying to remain carb legal.

My fuel hat finally snapped in turn 1 at thunderhill west, just checking in on this fuel canister accessory kit we talked about for the stock fuel system :).