Boosted Performance V 2.0

6mt370 · 11-08-2015, 03:51 PM

Sorry guys, confusing photo. I took all the bolts out before trying to pry. I just lightly put the bolts back in because I was calling it a night and didn't want to lose them. I appreciate the responses very much! Trust me, I'm not trying to do anything half assed, or wrong. I just didn't want damage that cast piece above the oil pan. I was using a flathead and a mallet to hit it in there and then pry it up. I could hear it creaking a bit with the rtv separating from the pan a bit, but still nothing :/
I'll get back to it later today hopefully. Working 14 hours days is killer

6mt370 · 11-09-2015, 05:35 AM

Praying that the oil feed port is facing the right way. Someone please tell me that's correct lol. If it is then I'm right on track. Very fun install minus a few headached parts that don't want to cooperate cough cough oil pan. Lol. Pretty close to buttoning everything up. A few more nights with 3-4 hours should do the trick. Thanks for the help guys. Oh and Sasha, everything is spot on fitting wise except for the IC bracket on the pass side. I'll have to re drill it a little to get it to fit properly.
I do have one question for you guys. My pipes are all wrapped and idk if that's the problem but I had to remove the heat shield from the pass side to get the turbo piping to fit. There was a stud protruding way to much and we pretty much had to remove it, and it's still very close to rubbing the floor board. Maybe a few MM's. Other than that all is good.

jwick · 11-09-2015, 09:12 AM

That 90 on the oil feed must be a later addition to the kit design because I don't have it but either way it should be facing forward so you're good. As for that stud, it has to be removed. I cut it off with my dremel. I thought that was in the instructions but I could be wrong its been almost two years since I installed.

6mt370 · 11-09-2015, 12:19 PM

Awesome, yeah it doesn't say it in the instructions to remove the stud. I do have the newer v2 kit so I know some things have changed compared to the v1

6mt370 · 11-11-2015, 03:42 AM

Sooooo I was doing the WG, installed a red and green spring because I don't have a yellow in either box. Anyways I was blocking off the air ports with the "supplied" block offs and one of the WG only came with 1 port in the bag and the other one came with all 3. Kinda lame. I'm also not understanding the whole making sure the valve seat is on the underside of the gate. Do you just place it in there and then put the clamp over it? Because the springs are already installed and the seat is out of the gate

jwick · 11-11-2015, 08:49 AM

You have to press down on the top of the gate a little to get it to seat so you can put the clamp on. The missing parts unfortunately isn't a surprise. Tial makes good stuff but they have packing issues. Have Sasha call so you can get the missing parts.

6mt370 · 11-11-2015, 03:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jwick

You have to press down on the top of the gate a little to get it to seat so you can put the clamp on. The missing parts unfortunately isn't a surprise. Tial makes good stuff but they have packing issues. Have Sasha call so you can get the missing parts.

So iv heard... Oh well, it's not that big of a deal. I'll PM Sasha and see what he can do

jwick · 11-11-2015, 03:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 6mt370

So iv heard... Oh well, it's not that big of a deal. I'll PM Sasha and see what he can do

I don't have my Tial cheat sheet anymore. What bar level are you at using the two combined springs you mentioned?

6mt370 · 11-13-2015, 01:39 AM

It was 10psi. Well I got the oil pan off and it's too badly bent for me to want to fix it. Spacer doesn't fit flush on multiple ends and I wouldn't have a peace of mind having that on my car. Does anyone have a new or used pan that they could sell me?

11-08-2015, 03:51 PM	#316 (permalink)
6mt370 Base Member Join Date: May 2015 Location: House Posts: 207 Drives: 370 Rep Power: 10	Sorry guys, confusing photo. I took all the bolts out before trying to pry. I just lightly put the bolts back in because I was calling it a night and didn't want to lose them. I appreciate the responses very much! Trust me, I'm not trying to do anything half assed, or wrong. I just didn't want damage that cast piece above the oil pan. I was using a flathead and a mallet to hit it in there and then pry it up. I could hear it creaking a bit with the rtv separating from the pan a bit, but still nothing :/ I'll get back to it later today hopefully. Working 14 hours days is killer zguynate and mag_black like this.

11-09-2015, 09:12 AM	#318 (permalink)
jwick A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Houston Posts: 14,532 Drives: '10 G37 6MT Rep Power: 2465056	Boosted Performance V 2.0 That 90 on the oil feed must be a later addition to the kit design because I don't have it but either way it should be facing forward so you're good. As for that stud, it has to be removed. I cut it off with my dremel. I thought that was in the instructions but I could be wrong its been almost two years since I installed. LMBmikeZ, zguynate and 6mt370 like this. __________________ '10 G37T 6MT Graphite/Graphite - BP - G37T Build Last edited by jwick; 11-09-2015 at 01:45 PM.

11-11-2015, 08:49 AM	#321 (permalink)
jwick A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Houston Posts: 14,532 Drives: '10 G37 6MT Rep Power: 2465056	Boosted Performance V 2.0 You have to press down on the top of the gate a little to get it to seat so you can put the clamp on. The missing parts unfortunately isn't a surprise. Tial makes good stuff but they have packing issues. Have Sasha call so you can get the missing parts. 1cleanZ and 6mt370 like this. __________________ '10 G37T 6MT Graphite/Graphite - BP - G37T Build

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11-09-2015, 05:35 AM	#317 (permalink)
6mt370 Base Member Join Date: May 2015 Location: House Posts: 207 Drives: 370 Rep Power: 10	Praying that the oil feed port is facing the right way. Someone please tell me that's correct lol. If it is then I'm right on track. Very fun install minus a few headached parts that don't want to cooperate cough cough oil pan. Lol. Pretty close to buttoning everything up. A few more nights with 3-4 hours should do the trick. Thanks for the help guys. Oh and Sasha, everything is spot on fitting wise except for the IC bracket on the pass side. I'll have to re drill it a little to get it to fit properly. I do have one question for you guys. My pipes are all wrapped and idk if that's the problem but I had to remove the heat shield from the pass side to get the turbo piping to fit. There was a stud protruding way to much and we pretty much had to remove it, and it's still very close to rubbing the floor board. Maybe a few MM's. Other than that all is good.

11-09-2015, 12:19 PM	#319 (permalink)
6mt370 Base Member Join Date: May 2015 Location: House Posts: 207 Drives: 370 Rep Power: 10	Awesome, yeah it doesn't say it in the instructions to remove the stud. I do have the newer v2 kit so I know some things have changed compared to the v1

11-11-2015, 03:42 AM	#320 (permalink)
6mt370 Base Member Join Date: May 2015 Location: House Posts: 207 Drives: 370 Rep Power: 10	Sooooo I was doing the WG, installed a red and green spring because I don't have a yellow in either box. Anyways I was blocking off the air ports with the "supplied" block offs and one of the WG only came with 1 port in the bag and the other one came with all 3. Kinda lame. I'm also not understanding the whole making sure the valve seat is on the underside of the gate. Do you just place it in there and then put the clamp over it? Because the springs are already installed and the seat is out of the gate

11-13-2015, 01:39 AM	#324 (permalink)
6mt370 Base Member Join Date: May 2015 Location: House Posts: 207 Drives: 370 Rep Power: 10	It was 10psi. Well I got the oil pan off and it's too badly bent for me to want to fix it. Spacer doesn't fit flush on multiple ends and I wouldn't have a peace of mind having that on my car. Does anyone have a new or used pan that they could sell me?