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Originally Posted by Merv Damn this is tempting! Hey Sasha,how far can the torque be dialed down when pushing about 450 horse? I only ask because I would be Leary

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Old 01-14-2015, 06:46 AM   #271 (permalink)
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Damn this is tempting!

Hey Sasha,how far can the torque be dialed down when pushing about 450 horse? I only ask because I would be Leary of running on stock internals and wouldn't be able to afford a rebuild.

I'd be shocked you could turn down the timing enough to get below 400-425wtq. Too little timing is just as bad as too much
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Old 01-14-2015, 08:48 AM   #272 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Merv View Post
Damn this is tempting!
Hey Sasha,how far can the torque be dialed down when pushing about 450 horse? I only ask because I would be Leary of running on stock internals and wouldn't be able to afford a rebuild.
From what I've seen of people on this forum so far I wouldn't be worried about running 450 WHP on stock internals. There was one guy who beats on his car and had 570 whp for around 20k miles, and then upped it to 671, and the only issue he had was the CSC (which people have had stock)
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Old 01-14-2015, 09:16 AM   #273 (permalink)
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Set it at 8psi and don't worry, be happy. And you will be. If it lets go at that psi level then it wasn't because of too much power.
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Old 01-14-2015, 09:31 AM   #274 (permalink)
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Set it at 8psi and don't worry, be happy. And you will be. If it lets go at that psi level then it wasn't because of too much power.
I would say use the 0.5bar spring in the WG and with a proper tune. Set it and be happy
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Old 01-14-2015, 10:10 AM   #275 (permalink)
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Can a guy use RTV on the header flange to xpipe to ensure a good seal? I can't get the berk gaskets as they are on backorder and have been since the beginning of December. I was thinking of using my old ones with a little RTV or the ultra copper permatex.

Is there a problem with this?
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Old 01-14-2015, 10:24 AM   #276 (permalink)
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Can a guy use RTV on the header flange to xpipe to ensure a good seal? I can't get the berk gaskets as they are on backorder and have been since the beginning of December. I was thinking of using my old ones with a little RTV or the ultra copper permatex.

Is there a problem with this?
I would just use RTV. Don't combine the two together.
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Old 01-15-2015, 01:58 AM   #277 (permalink)
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Thanks for the info guys.
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Old 01-15-2015, 02:35 AM   #278 (permalink)
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Should I crack the 2 triangle flanges that goes to the cat loose right now? The transmission is down and out of the way. I don't think I will every get as open of an angle to crack them loose as now. Me thinking yes, as I have already sprayed pb on them. Pic #10 on Shasha's original post on page 1. I need to stop by Harbor F and pick up a torque set and a darn 1/2 pneumatic impact gun. Stupid torques bolts are stuck.

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Old 01-15-2015, 06:46 AM   #279 (permalink)
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Should I crack the 2 triangle flanges that goes to the cat loose right now? The transmission is down and out of the way. I don't think I will every get as open of an angle to crack them loose as now. Me thinking yes, as I have already sprayed pb on them. Pic #10 on Shasha's original post on page 1. I need to stop by Harbor F and pick up a torque set and a darn 1/2 pneumatic impact gun. Stupid torques bolts are stuck.

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Unless you are willing to drive around with an exhaust leak until you do the kit install, I wouldn't touch the cat flange bolts
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Old 01-15-2015, 07:39 AM   #280 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YzGyz View Post
Should I crack the 2 triangle flanges that goes to the cat loose right now? The transmission is down and out of the way. I don't think I will every get as open of an angle to crack them loose as now. Me thinking yes, as I have already sprayed pb on them. Pic #10 on Shasha's original post on page 1. I need to stop by Harbor F and pick up a torque set and a darn 1/2 pneumatic impact gun. Stupid torques bolts are stuck.

YzGyz
-I would recommend getting a 1/2 inch breaker bar + cheater bar. You virtually have to break those bolts to remove them. My attempts with an impact were disappointing to say the least. The top one, especially, is a pain and needs a collection of extensions. I used a 4 ft. bar and had to hang on it.

I agree with jwick as well - exhaust leak is imminent if you break them off now and intend to drive the car.
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Old 01-15-2015, 07:41 AM   #281 (permalink)
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Unless you are willing to drive around with an exhaust leak until you do the kit install, I wouldn't touch the cat flange bolts
Maybe crack them loose and retighten to the appropriate torque spec so it's easier to remove later? Of course, you're boned if you snap one off.
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Old 01-15-2015, 07:46 AM   #282 (permalink)
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Maybe crack them loose and retighten to the appropriate torque spec so it's easier to remove later? Of course, you're boned if you snap one off.
You know it's going to snap. I've busted off four demon bolts and I'm 4for4.
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Old 01-15-2015, 08:33 AM   #283 (permalink)
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I PB blasted them and let them sit overnight. Then they came off the next day with just a driver and short cheater bar. None broke.

If it were me I'd take them off when the tranny was out of the way. Let the car sit like that until you complete the install. There are a hundred other things to do before you get the rest of the parts if that is your holdup.

Guess you need a backup rig for this though, which you should if you go FI on the Z anyway.
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Old 01-15-2015, 10:57 AM   #284 (permalink)
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Leave it alone it is. I still need to dd my car. What a shame. a perfect chance at them gone.

Thanks
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Old 01-15-2015, 07:46 PM   #285 (permalink)
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I got them off a Z with 50k+ miles with one turn. I was lucky. Same with my Z and it had 33k. PB blast them though at least before you try. Use a 1/2 and like others said a cheater pipe works wonders.
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