Originally Posted by Boosted Performance BTW, the difference between V 1.0, 1.5 and 2.0 can be found in the first post of this thread. Hey Sasha, I need you to
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10-26-2015, 02:37 AM | #301 (permalink) |
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Hey Sasha, I need you to email/message me please sir.
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R/T Built motor, wiseco 9:1 Pistons, Eagle H-beam rods, ARP L-19| BP kit, PTE 6766, EPS 70mm TB, GTR Intake, PRS lower conversion| ID1000cc, CJM Twin pump 340&255, PRS Rails, CJM fuel return| Fast Intentions| R/T Tuned, 660WHP 596WTQ at 18lbs. 93 octane |
10-26-2015, 11:36 PM | #302 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
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10-27-2015, 12:30 AM | #303 (permalink) |
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It is the downstream section of the exhaust system. It will bolt up to either the OEM exhaust, or any after market exhaust system that would bolt up to the OEM Y-pipe. I also have the option for a down pipe that will bolt up to the Fast Intensions dual 2.5" exhaust, as well as the Motordyne exhaust.
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10-27-2015, 08:55 AM | #304 (permalink) |
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Just to note. If you are buying for a G only the OEM exhaust option works. The FI mod-pope connection is in a different location than on a G. I cannot speak for the Motordyne.
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10-27-2015, 09:54 AM | #305 (permalink) |
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Oh, thanks for the input on that.
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10-27-2015, 09:56 AM | #306 (permalink) |
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Any time. And I should probably expand on that. Any exhaust that uses the OEM flange location will work (i.e. I originally had a Stillen exhaust and it mated just fine)
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10-27-2015, 12:01 PM | #307 (permalink) | |
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I figured that's what it was, but then again, just to clarify |
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10-29-2015, 11:05 AM | #308 (permalink) |
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my downpipe would be oem and hopefully it matches up to the Ark exhaust fairly well. I already spoke to a welder and he's already excited to get this build started.
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11-08-2015, 02:32 AM | #309 (permalink) |
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Hey guys, started installing my BP kit today and I have a few questions. First one is, how the hell do you get the oil pan separated from the engine? I was using any tool I could find to wedge in there and nothing. I'm baffled at how to get it off. I'm using the large cast area to pry against but it's chipping away at it and I don't want to ruin that!
Second, I installed the exa pump and clipped on the harness with the black and red wore attached only. Now, I'm left with two harnesses, both with several wires and one has the add a fuse attached to it. Confused on how to wire that or where to even install it because both my red and black wires are right next to the fuse box already ( haven't wired anything yet just ran those two wires over to the location) Those are the two harnesses. Really stuck on what to do there. Any help is appreciated. The exhaust is off and some of the oil lines are installed so only a few more days of work and I should be good |
11-08-2015, 08:14 AM | #310 (permalink) |
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Are you trying to pry it off w/ just one bolt removed?
edit: not trying to be a smartass about it.
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11-08-2015, 09:54 AM | #311 (permalink) |
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The oil pan needs a good bit of prying to get off. Take all the bolts off. Then use a flat bar ( one that is shaped like an "L") and stick the shorter end between the pan and block. Give it a few good wings with the hammer till it works itself in. Use a second pry bar or big long screwdriver to work your way around loosening the pan. The pan will be warped a little in the pry area but you can beat it strait again with a flat surface and a socket or something.
As for the two wire harness, one is for the Exa, one is for the fuel pump. I think I have pics somewhere in my build thread. YzGyz |
11-08-2015, 10:15 AM | #313 (permalink) |
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The relay with the add a fuse is for the Exa pump and the other is for the factory fuel pump harness. There's a pretty crude Microsoft paint sketch that shows how to wire the fuel pump harness. If I recall properly you cut the pink wire in the factory fuel pump harness but I can't remember which end of the harness gets spliced to each side of the cut pink wire. I agree with the others. Take all the pan bolts out completely before you start trying to pry it off. I stuck a flathead screw driver in the seam and hit it with a hammer a few times. Once I got it started I basically repeated the process with a second flathead until it was open enough for me to work my way around. You will have to reshape the pan a little once you get it off. There's a lot of detail in my build thread if you need reference. Clink the link in my signature. |
11-08-2015, 01:54 PM | #315 (permalink) |
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From that pic it looks like the pan is still bolted to the block. If you tried to take the oil pan off like that you should not be installing the turbo kit. Stop now!!!
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