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For the guys who have gone built blocks and used spare long block as ur new motor how did u go about taking off and reinstalling VVEL? Should it be

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Old 04-04-2014, 01:10 PM   #1 (permalink)
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For the guys who have gone built blocks and used spare long block as ur new motor how did u go about taking off and reinstalling VVEL? Should it be marked a certain way to be put back on correctly? What would be the procedure? Is it a simple just remove and reinstall? I'm building my spare longblock but might keep my heads from current motor. Would this be a problem for vvel?
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Old 04-04-2014, 01:35 PM   #2 (permalink)
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http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/370Z/Coupe/2010/EM.pdf

The procedure starts at page EM-89
Quote from the FSM "CAUTION: A high degree of precision is required for a valve(job) on the intake side. Never remove the valve related parts unless necessary."
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Old 04-04-2014, 06:20 PM   #3 (permalink)
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After removing the vvl off of the heads and reinstalling you will have to take it to the Nissan dealership and have them Flash the computer to reset the timing/vvl...
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Old 04-04-2014, 06:26 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by COSMO View Post
After removing the vvl off of the heads and reinstalling you will have to take it to the Nissan dealership and have them Flash the computer to reset the timing/vvl...
I didn't have to do that.

Just make sure you don't remove the solenoid, with the four allen bolts. Just remove the whole assembly off the back of the head and you'll be fine.

When re-installing leave the two screws a bit loose on the sensor so the ecu can adjust the timing, then you can tighten them back up. (this is the sensor on the back of the VVEL housing that can rotate a bit)
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Old 04-04-2014, 07:01 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Also, make sure you keep track of which cam caps go where, this was my problem. I had reinstalled a few incorrectly on the passenger bank and the assembly could not rotate correctly. It was a nightmare problem solving that. Tested everything, changed out VVEL computer control module from another Z, bought a new solenoid, tsted all the electronics before we figured out I had installed the cam caps wrong!
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Old 04-04-2014, 07:24 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Thanks guys
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Old 04-04-2014, 10:26 PM   #7 (permalink)
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This is as far as you need to break the head down for pressure testing at a machine shop if you want that done. You might not need to break it down this far. However, if you do, remember everything is torqued to 10lbs on the VVEl craddle and cam caps.





This is a pic of the VVEL assembly section with the solenoid removed, dont do that, LOL! It will just make your life easier.



This is the VVEL assembly internally, there are two allen/star bolts that connect to the VVEL cam that will need to be removed to get the entire assembly off the back of the head.



Cam caps, keep track! They are labled alphabetically and with numbers.



remember to clean all silicon off using whatever means you find easiest. I chose a power tool. Silicon is your friend on reassembly!

The most crucial part is the timing chain, make sure you understand the marks on the chains and cam sprockets and get this done correctly or you will hate your life. The timing chain tensors can be pushed in and held in place with a thumb tack to make dis-assembly and reassembly an ease, there are little holes on the tensors that you can slide the tacks in after you depress the tensor. There are 3 of them you can do this to. Two at the cam(exhaust & intake) sprockets Left and right. One on the center left side of the inside timing cover. Once again everything should be torques to 10lbs, but I mite need to double check that!



sandwich bags, a sharpie, lots of pictures and cleanliness will be your best friends during this process! Don't drink too much beer!

Good luck buddy!
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Old 04-05-2014, 01:27 AM   #8 (permalink)
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You should never remove the "cam caps" on the vvel ladder assembly. There is a big warning in the FSM in multiple places that says never to do it. all you need to do is pull the ladder assembley with the vvel intact from the head, after unbolting the the sensor and actuator from the back of the head. leaving the screws loose on the sensor until you start the car to let the computer adjust it? how is the ecu supposed to move the sensor to the correct neutral position? There is a procedure in the fsm that uses a multimeter and the ecu to set the vvel at neutral position, then clock the sensor until it outputs the correct voltage. Also yes there is no need to remove the dc motor from the vvel actuator but it is just a dc motor so there a good chance it wont cause any harm so long as it was reassembled correctly.
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Old 04-05-2014, 01:40 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I removed the cam caps and my car runs fine.... I didn't use the manual and my tuner has the top of the line scan tool that we used to check everything. We've built 3 of these motors from the ground up with no issues. This was my first time building a motor, so I ran into a few issues, which is why I'm trying to help by lending my experience doing it. As far as the cam sensor finding the neutral position, I'll have to ask JTran about it, but I know he didn't use a multimeter to do it.
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Old 04-05-2014, 01:41 AM   #10 (permalink)
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I was wondering when you would chime in, I guess if it's not in the manual or says not to do it, it can't be done! Doing it > reading about it!
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Old 04-05-2014, 02:07 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Bottom line is when JTran builds these motors Mr. Bergenholtz breaks everything down, testing and measuring all parts of the motor and creating a detailed spreadsheet. He likes to learn and understand how things work. I guess that comes from his 25 yrs of experience building motors. It was great having him there to help guide me and give pointers, learned a ton!



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Old 04-05-2014, 10:17 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1slow370 View Post
You should never remove the "cam caps" on the vvel ladder assembly. There is a big warning in the FSM in multiple places that says never to do it. all you need to do is pull the ladder assembley with the vvel intact from the head, after unbolting the the sensor and actuator from the back of the head. leaving the screws loose on the sensor until you start the car to let the computer adjust it? how is the ecu supposed to move the sensor to the correct neutral position? There is a procedure in the fsm that uses a multimeter and the ecu to set the vvel at neutral position, then clock the sensor until it outputs the correct voltage.
this was my understanding as well. the mechanic who works on my car used to work for nissan and has worked on many VHR motors. they never take the VVEL cam out of the ladder, and you reset the vvel sensors using a multimeter or scan tool after re-installing them.

now I'm sure that doesn't mean you cant remove the VVEL cam, but nissan does not recommend it, and really theres no reason at all to do it.
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Old 04-05-2014, 11:18 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Like I said, didn't read the manual, 1st motor build, car still runs. Now he knows what not to do. Leave the vvel cam alone and if there ever comes a need to mess with it Dont drink and install cam caps.

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Old 04-05-2014, 11:45 AM   #14 (permalink)
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But if you read the manual you would have avoided it in the first place. But dont get me wrong it shouldnt be followed 100% afterall it says you cant reuse or service half the motor which just isnt true.

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Edit: the vvel control shaft postion sensor adjustment is on page ec-21 and the non consult3 directions are on ec-22
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Old 04-05-2014, 12:56 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Agreed!

I know Tran and Bergenholtz had to have read it at some point. All I know is they said take everything apart and that's what I did. Live and learn.

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