CJM Mini FP Gauge Kit

valpozguy · 04-03-2014, 11:40 AM

Thanks for your quickness and responds to the shipping and questions.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I527 using Xparent BlueTapatalk 2

sixpax · 04-03-2014, 02:33 PM

I got mine today ... thanks for the prompt shipment Charles. Nifty packing job, and the parts are very, very nice looking. More bling bling, and functionality ! Hopefully I don't catch anything on fire putting it on, I am fairly clutsy.

phunk · 04-03-2014, 03:16 PM

Brief installation notes:

Let the car sit for a few hours before installation so that both the engine and fuel can cool, and so that at least a few psi of the fuel pressure can seep out before opening the line.

Either hide the key, or disconnect the battery. If someone powers on the car during install, fuel is going to spray all over the place.

Tools needed:

10mm socket on a ratchet
5mm allen wrench
Roll of paper towls, or a bunch of rags.
thread sealant

A: Install either a 1/8 NPT plug, sensor, or pressure gauge to the front of the CJ fitting with thread sealant. You can use teflon tape or paste. If you use tape, just try not to let it hang over and get on the inside of the fuel plumbing.

B: Make sure you have everything: The CJ fuel tap (which is now plugged with either a NPT plug, or a sensor or gauge.), you should have 2 SS bolts about 1.5" long, and a pair of SS washers. Make sure the viton oring on the bottom of the CJ fuel tap is both installed, and looks healthy.

C: Locate the fuel line and damper input flange. It is located at the front end of the passenger side valvecover.

D: Surround yourself with several rags within reach, use one hand to hold the damper and line down, while removing the 10mm bolts. The fuel is under pressure, so do not take your hand off, keep holding the part down after removing the bolts.

E: Surround the entire area with rags, because there will be a brief blast of fuel when you lift up the damper and hose. You want to basically mummy wrap the area so that it all gets absorbed when you lift up. Make sure your eyes are protected from spray.

F: With the entire area protected from fuel blast, and with your eyes protected, slowly slowly lift up on the damper/hose. You have about 1/4" up to go before the fuel will start coming out. If you go slow enough, you can get the fuel pressure to just seep into your rags. I usually hold the rags tight around while I lift up to make sure they absorb it, and you can usually feel the rags get cold/wet as it soaks in. You will be able to tell when you are lifted completely off.

G: Once you are lifted off and away, you are safe to continue. Dry up any fuel that got away.

H: There is probably a small puddle of fuel down in the fuel rail inlet fitting. Dab a tiny bit of that fuel on the viton oring of the CJ fitting to lubricate it, and then slide the CJ fitting down into the fuel rail inlet flange.

I: Now install the fuel damper/line into the CJ fitting. Secure it using the 2 SS bolts and washers, and use the 5mm allen wrench to tighten.

J: You are done! Make sure everything is snug and dry.

K: go into the car, and turn the car on without starting the engine. To do this in a 6MT, act like you are going to start the car, but do not push the clutch in. It will just turn everything on without starting. I assume this is the same for a 7AT you just dont press the brake peddle down. Doing this will prime the fuel pump momentarily. It might not have been enough to build full pressure, but it should be good enough to go check for leaks and make sure the gauge is reading some pressure if you have one.

L: If you have any leaks, and you dont know why, do not start the engine. Post here, or contact me, or call a buddy mechanic... whatever you do, dont drive around with a fuel leak!

Anyone think of anything I am missing? I just typed this up out of memory.

sixpax · 04-03-2014, 03:32 PM

Thanks Charles ... these were written so even sixpax could understand

ZMan8 · 04-03-2014, 05:41 PM

Charles, any pick up options? Don't really think it's necessary to ship when I'm so close.

09nismo498 · 04-03-2014, 06:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZMan8

Charles, any pick up options? Don't really think it's necessary to ship when I'm so close.

Yes I would like to know this too. I wanna get one when I get back in town next week if they are in stock!

phunk · 04-03-2014, 06:43 PM

Sure, $5 cash discount for saving me on the processing fees. Just get in touch with me before coming out because I come and go all day sometimes.

09nismo498 · 04-03-2014, 06:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phunk

Sure, $5 cash discount for saving me on the processing fees

Perfect! See you in a week or so. Silver in stock?

phunk · 04-03-2014, 06:45 PM

Yes I will hide one in a desk drawer now for you! Remind me if I say its out of stock.

09nismo498 · 04-03-2014, 06:49 PM

Awesome thank you!

Rusty · 04-03-2014, 08:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phunk

Brief installation notes:

Let the car sit for a few hours before installation so that both the engine and fuel can cool, and so that at least a few psi of the fuel pressure can seep out before opening the line.

Either hide the key, or disconnect the battery. If someone powers on the car during install, fuel is going to spray all over the place.

Tools needed:

10mm socket on a ratchet
5mm allen wrench
Roll of paper towls, or a bunch of rags.
thread sealant

A: Install either a 1/8 NPT plug, sensor, or pressure gauge to the front of the CJ fitting with thread sealant. You can use teflon tape or paste. If you use tape, just try not to let it hang over and get on the inside of the fuel plumbing.

B: Make sure you have everything: The CJ fuel tap (which is now plugged with either a NPT plug, or a sensor or gauge.), you should have 2 SS bolts about 1.5" long, and a pair of SS washers. Make sure the viton oring on the bottom of the CJ fuel tap is both installed, and looks healthy.

C: Locate the fuel line and damper input flange. It is located at the front end of the passenger side valvecover.

D: Surround yourself with several rags within reach, use one hand to hold the damper and line down, while removing the 10mm bolts. The fuel is under pressure, so do not take your hand off, keep holding the part down after removing the bolts.

E: Surround the entire area with rags, because there will be a brief blast of fuel when you lift up the damper and hose. You want to basically mummy wrap the area so that it all gets absorbed when you lift up. Make sure your eyes are protected from spray.

F: With the entire area protected from fuel blast, and with your eyes protected, slowly slowly lift up on the damper/hose. You have about 1/4" up to go before the fuel will start coming out. If you go slow enough, you can get the fuel pressure to just seep into your rags. I usually hold the rags tight around while I lift up to make sure they absorb it, and you can usually feel the rags get cold/wet as it soaks in. You will be able to tell when you are lifted completely off.

G: Once you are lifted off and away, you are safe to continue. Dry up any fuel that got away.

H: There is probably a small puddle of fuel down in the fuel rail inlet fitting. Dab a tiny bit of that fuel on the viton oring of the CJ fitting to lubricate it, and then slide the CJ fitting down into the fuel rail inlet flange.

I: Now install the fuel damper/line into the CJ fitting. Secure it using the 2 SS bolts and washers, and use the 5mm allen wrench to tighten.

J: You are done! Make sure everything is snug and dry.

K: go into the car, and turn the car on without starting the engine. To do this in a 6MT, act like you are going to start the car, but do not push the clutch in. It will just turn everything on without starting. I assume this is the same for a 7AT you just dont press the brake peddle down. Doing this will prime the fuel pump momentarily. It might not have been enough to build full pressure, but it should be good enough to go check for leaks and make sure the gauge is reading some pressure if you have one.

L: If you have any leaks, and you dont know why, do not start the engine. Post here, or contact me, or call a buddy mechanic... whatever you do, dont drive around with a fuel leak!

Anyone think of anything I am missing? I just typed this up out of memory.

Good write up.

I found it best to just leave the Z sit over night before working on the fuel system. This way. All of the fuel pressure has bled off.

phunk · 04-03-2014, 08:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty

Good write up.

I found it best to just leave the Z sit over night before working on the fuel system. This way. All of the fuel pressure has bled off.

I agree when that is an option... but you still have to take the measures because some cars will hold their pressure for dayyyys

Rusty · 04-03-2014, 08:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phunk

I agree when that is an option... but you still have to take the measures because some cars will hold their pressure for dayyyys

I should of said "most of the pressure". Thinking back after I installed mine. Sometimes it would show 20 lbs or more the next day.

09nismo498 · 04-03-2014, 08:51 PM

My z hasn't ran for 7 months now, and I've had the fuel system apart already, so I shouldn't have a prob with fuel pressure lol

ZMan8 · 04-04-2014, 10:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phunk

Sure, $5 cash discount for saving me on the processing fees. Just get in touch with me before coming out because I come and go all day sometimes.

Awesome ill probably try to make it out sometime within next 2-3 weeks. Ill pm you in advance of that.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk

04-03-2014, 11:40 AM	#91 (permalink)
valpozguy Track Member Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: valparaiso Posts: 501 Drives: 09 z Rep Power: 16	Thanks for your quickness and responds to the shipping and questions. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I527 using Xparent BlueTapatalk 2 phunk, elperuano and COSMO like this.

04-03-2014, 03:16 PM	#93 (permalink)
phunk A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Chicago Posts: 3,668 Drives: 370 Rep Power: 974723	Brief installation notes: Let the car sit for a few hours before installation so that both the engine and fuel can cool, and so that at least a few psi of the fuel pressure can seep out before opening the line. Either hide the key, or disconnect the battery. If someone powers on the car during install, fuel is going to spray all over the place. Tools needed: 10mm socket on a ratchet 5mm allen wrench Roll of paper towls, or a bunch of rags. thread sealant A: Install either a 1/8 NPT plug, sensor, or pressure gauge to the front of the CJ fitting with thread sealant. You can use teflon tape or paste. If you use tape, just try not to let it hang over and get on the inside of the fuel plumbing. B: Make sure you have everything: The CJ fuel tap (which is now plugged with either a NPT plug, or a sensor or gauge.), you should have 2 SS bolts about 1.5" long, and a pair of SS washers. Make sure the viton oring on the bottom of the CJ fuel tap is both installed, and looks healthy. C: Locate the fuel line and damper input flange. It is located at the front end of the passenger side valvecover. D: Surround yourself with several rags within reach, use one hand to hold the damper and line down, while removing the 10mm bolts. The fuel is under pressure, so do not take your hand off, keep holding the part down after removing the bolts. E: Surround the entire area with rags, because there will be a brief blast of fuel when you lift up the damper and hose. You want to basically mummy wrap the area so that it all gets absorbed when you lift up. Make sure your eyes are protected from spray. F: With the entire area protected from fuel blast, and with your eyes protected, slowly slowly lift up on the damper/hose. You have about 1/4" up to go before the fuel will start coming out. If you go slow enough, you can get the fuel pressure to just seep into your rags. I usually hold the rags tight around while I lift up to make sure they absorb it, and you can usually feel the rags get cold/wet as it soaks in. You will be able to tell when you are lifted completely off. G: Once you are lifted off and away, you are safe to continue. Dry up any fuel that got away. H: There is probably a small puddle of fuel down in the fuel rail inlet fitting. Dab a tiny bit of that fuel on the viton oring of the CJ fitting to lubricate it, and then slide the CJ fitting down into the fuel rail inlet flange. I: Now install the fuel damper/line into the CJ fitting. Secure it using the 2 SS bolts and washers, and use the 5mm allen wrench to tighten. J: You are done! Make sure everything is snug and dry. K: go into the car, and turn the car on without starting the engine. To do this in a 6MT, act like you are going to start the car, but do not push the clutch in. It will just turn everything on without starting. I assume this is the same for a 7AT you just dont press the brake peddle down. Doing this will prime the fuel pump momentarily. It might not have been enough to build full pressure, but it should be good enough to go check for leaks and make sure the gauge is reading some pressure if you have one. L: If you have any leaks, and you dont know why, do not start the engine. Post here, or contact me, or call a buddy mechanic... whatever you do, dont drive around with a fuel leak! Anyone think of anything I am missing? I just typed this up out of memory. G37sHKS, Presto, GaleForce and 3 others like this. __________________ Charles @ CJ Motorsports : Website \| Facebook \| Instagram \| YouTube Home of the 9 second, stock longblock, stock drivetrain 6MT 370z. 9.91 @ 142mph Last edited by phunk; 04-03-2014 at 03:19 PM.

04-03-2014, 05:41 PM	#95 (permalink)
ZMan8 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Chicago, IL Posts: 5,844 Drives: 10 370z 40th M6 Rep Power: 659	Charles, any pick up options? Don't really think it's necessary to ship when I'm so close. 09nismo498 likes this. __________________ 2010 370Z 40 Anniv., 6 MT \| Fast Intentions \| Swift Springs \| SPC \| Z1Motorsports \| JWM \| Redline Oils \| 35% Window Tint 2015 Mazda6 \| 370ZChicago: Chicago Area Cars & Coffee

04-03-2014, 06:43 PM	#97 (permalink)
phunk A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Chicago Posts: 3,668 Drives: 370 Rep Power: 974723	Sure, $5 cash discount for saving me on the processing fees. Just get in touch with me before coming out because I come and go all day sometimes. 09nismo498 and ZMan8 like this. __________________ Charles @ CJ Motorsports : Website \| Facebook \| Instagram \| YouTube Home of the 9 second, stock longblock, stock drivetrain 6MT 370z. 9.91 @ 142mph

04-03-2014, 06:45 PM	#99 (permalink)
phunk A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Chicago Posts: 3,668 Drives: 370 Rep Power: 974723	Yes I will hide one in a desk drawer now for you! Remind me if I say its out of stock. 09nismo498 likes this. __________________ Charles @ CJ Motorsports : Website \| Facebook \| Instagram \| YouTube Home of the 9 second, stock longblock, stock drivetrain 6MT 370z. 9.91 @ 142mph

04-03-2014, 06:49 PM	#100 (permalink)
09nismo498 Base Member Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Chicago burbs Posts: 207 Drives: 14 GTR Rep Power: 16	Awesome thank you! __________________ 2013 370z Nismo Turbo 2017 Lexus IS200T F Sport (DD)

04-03-2014, 08:51 PM	#104 (permalink)
09nismo498 Base Member Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Chicago burbs Posts: 207 Drives: 14 GTR Rep Power: 16	My z hasn't ran for 7 months now, and I've had the fuel system apart already, so I shouldn't have a prob with fuel pressure lol phunk likes this. __________________ 2013 370z Nismo Turbo 2017 Lexus IS200T F Sport (DD)

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
Mini cat cel fix	Zedx	Intake/Exhaust	10	03-09-2017 03:41 PM
One Mini I would like to get into.	Mitco39	Other Vehicles	1	11-16-2012 10:09 PM
The Not-so-Mini	scottIN	Other Vehicles	4	06-20-2012 08:16 PM
How do you remove Gauge Cover & cover for tri gauge??	Carbon_z	Exterior & Interior	4	11-26-2010 10:07 PM
What happened to the tire pressure gauge and speedo in the middle gauge cluster?	rbratton	Nissan 370Z General Discussions	33	01-24-2009 11:28 PM