Nitrous and 4.08 FD build!

megalapagas

Hey guys I'm so stoked to finally be able to start my build! Well it all started when I saw a member selling his Nitrous on the parts for sale thread and instantly I was Hooked! Haha!

I plan on running a 100 Shot but I haven't installed it yet because I'm looking for shops who can install it for me and of course tune it. One small detail that's bothering me though, I bought the one step colder plugs by NGK but is there going to be any complications while driving the vehicle NA???

Missing parts for Completion of Build:

-350Z 6Mt pumpkin
-4.08 Gears
-Quaife Lsd
*The Gears and Quaife ill be getting them from Z1 Performance* (Of course after Tax Return is done hahaha!)

NGK plugs One Step Colder


Bottle Warmer with Blanket


Automatic Bottle Opener


Lean AFR shut down switch & Arming Switches


Dual Nozzle


Digital Nitrous PSI Gauge


Purge System


TPS/RPM Window Switch


Nitrous & Fuel Solenoids


Liquid Filled Pressure Gauge


I'm missing some pictures like the 10lbs bottle, Autometer tach adaptar and Blow Down Switch. Reason why I haven't installed it is because I don't have the tools and no lifts so I'm going to take it a shop (when I find one) and tune it. But I'd really want to know if driving with One Step Colder Plugs affect in any way while driving NA?

*Also like I said ill be uploading the Gears, Quaife and 350Z pumpkin once I get my tax return done

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GTM 34 Row Oil Cooler | K&N Drop Ins w/ Z1's Post MAF Tubes | F.I Non-Res'd 2.5" T.P w/ CF CBE | Axis Wheels | Piecing together My Own Custom T4 Top Mount Single Turbo Kit *Still in the works* |

Super Werty

Where do you plan on spraying into?

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The Build

OldRice

There should be no notable change running those NA. Their primary purpose is to have a snubbier projection and improved insulating capacity to release heat quicker therefore minimizing det or pre-ign. I would suggest copper as well if available as they read better.

You may also want to consider removing the fittings, cleaning off the teflon tape, and re-tighten with loctite blue. Most kit manufacturers frown on the teflon tape as it potentially can disintegrate and clog solenoids. Or buy new fittings since they are NPT crush thread and to re-tighten may be less effective seal second go around.

my .02

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Nitrous Outlet 57N 33F +NANO = 349whp/353wtq

megalapagas

Thx Oldrice for the advise that was my only BIG QUESTION as to how that would work lol.. and also to clarify I bought the kit off a member here but I've had it since December 26, 2013. I never installed it or started to look for someone to install seeing as I wanted to get everything together and yes I will disassemble everything so everything can be sealed up and hooked up the right way Of course I'm always Open to tips, suggestions basically anything that's helpful and I much appreciate it.

To what gear I'm going to spray well thanks to the TPS/RPM window switch I'm locking out 1 & 2 gear and spraying 3rd and 4th being as there might already be wheel spin on 1st & 2nd with the 4.08s...of course being at a drag strip once I invest on some Drag Radials I could possibly try spraying on 2nd but atm the moment I haven't decided on 2nd gear yet...

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GTM 34 Row Oil Cooler | K&N Drop Ins w/ Z1's Post MAF Tubes | F.I Non-Res'd 2.5" T.P w/ CF CBE | Axis Wheels | Piecing together My Own Custom T4 Top Mount Single Turbo Kit *Still in the works* |

luigi90210

looking forward to results

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SOLD 370z
New Car:classified
DD:2011 Mini Cooper S stock

threeseventy

What 315+ width rear tires are you going to run? I can burn out starting in 2nd gear with my 4.08's and sticky 275 Hankook RS3's and I'm N/A @320whp. I never got good hook on the rear in 1st until I put 305 RE11's on a coupla years ago, and they had to be warmed up a little.. wish I had a set of them now with the gears..

Wonka2581

Subd

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"I have nothing to offer but blood, toil, tears and sweat""Winston Churchill"

LNATKFRNG

Good luck with the install, you will be pleased! The colder plugs when running stock are a non issue. I installed mine myself it wasn't difficult if you think you might try it your self the hardest part it fitting it all in there. Definitely tune it at 100 shot, in for results!

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'09 sport package

OldRice

OP - I propose you attempt the layout install yourself. I say that because it will help you troubleshoot and self-support the system in the future. Leave the wiring and tune to a shop and save labor costs on the bottle, lines, solenoid setup.

Also I am a big proponent of progressive controllers. Your typical nitrous dyno result shows a huge spike in wtq when the n2o comes in then tapers off fairly quick as rpm climb. PC ramping options allow you to smooth that torque spike out somewhat. I personally have always been hyperfocused on managing wtq rather than computed derivative whp. Of course if you are drag racing maybe you want the torque early in the first 60'. Balance between safety & performance. Setting your rpm window to 4000-7000 is a good place to start.

.03

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Nitrous Outlet 57N 33F +NANO = 349whp/353wtq

megalapagas

Can someone please chime in as to what I should gap my spark plugs I'm doing the install on plugs myself as we speak bearly removed the strut bar

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GTM 34 Row Oil Cooler | K&N Drop Ins w/ Z1's Post MAF Tubes | F.I Non-Res'd 2.5" T.P w/ CF CBE | Axis Wheels | Piecing together My Own Custom T4 Top Mount Single Turbo Kit *Still in the works* |

megalapagas

*Update*

So I was changing the spark plugs (SUPER EASY BTW, I thought it was going to be hard or what not but I followed the steps Spohn mentioned and its EASY!) I NOTICED SO OIL LEAK from the Valve Cover...Long story short my valve cover gasket is shot and I have to wait till monday to buy 2 New Valve cover gaskets from nissan. I might aswell replace both since I'm already there working on the engine and I'm glad I saw this NOW rather than something worse happening down the road after installing my parts from my build. So I'm a little stuck atm but nothing that can't be fixed ...will keep posted...

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GTM 34 Row Oil Cooler | K&N Drop Ins w/ Z1's Post MAF Tubes | F.I Non-Res'd 2.5" T.P w/ CF CBE | Axis Wheels | Piecing together My Own Custom T4 Top Mount Single Turbo Kit *Still in the works* |

OldRice

Conventional wisdom is plug gap = .032 ~ .034. @ jetting 100 and beyond. I will be testing if this real makes a difference since I will be stock gap of .043 for a 125 re-tune this spring.

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Nitrous Outlet 57N 33F +NANO = 349whp/353wtq

1slow370

the conventional gapping wisdom on nitrous though is based on copper plugs with crappy murican factory ignitions though you should be able to get away with more with iridiums, another old way to do it was to gap them down .005-.01 from factory

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gbrettin

Keep us updated man. I'm really interested seeing how this turns out.

megalapagas

Thanks, Appreciate the input @OldRice & @1slow370 although I'm on pause till tomorrow morning when I go to nissan to purchace the gaskets THEN I can continue to the build

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GTM 34 Row Oil Cooler | K&N Drop Ins w/ Z1's Post MAF Tubes | F.I Non-Res'd 2.5" T.P w/ CF CBE | Axis Wheels | Piecing together My Own Custom T4 Top Mount Single Turbo Kit *Still in the works* |