Nissan 370Z Forum

Nissan 370Z Forum (http://www.the370z.com/)
-   Forced Induction (http://www.the370z.com/forced-induction/)
-   -   4 best ways to improve traction with boosted Z (http://www.the370z.com/forced-induction/85889-4-best-ways-improve-traction-boosted-z.html)

Diabel 02-18-2014 08:17 AM

4 best ways to improve traction with boosted Z
 
To all boosted guys: could you share some knowledge&tips for traction improvements on your 400-500WHP beasts? Especially for drag racing and starts from 0 speed.

Could you mark below ways for better traction from best to worst? :

1. Racelogic traction control
2. Final drive gears (which one?)
3. Differential bushings upgrade
4. Suspension upgrade - 0 camber
5. Electronic Boost Controller with boost by speed/RPM

What else? (I did not mention about tires and wheels on purpose - because its obvious)

JMac88 02-18-2014 08:38 AM

Stiffer/solid mounts

Mitco39 02-18-2014 09:05 AM

Boost controller that controls boost vs load. That way you can have it ramp up as opposed to just on or off.

DEpointfive0 02-18-2014 09:17 AM

Get the auto's final drive gears

fuct 02-18-2014 09:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DEpointfive0 (Post 2697359)
Get the auto's final drive gears

arnt you selling one... :rolleyes:

2011 Nismo#91 02-18-2014 10:12 AM

Suspension should be #1. Electronics just compensate for the problem, they don't solve it. I don't think changing the final drive should he high up on the list of things to do either for getting more traction

AdobePhil 02-18-2014 10:56 AM

Sticky Tires and a stiff suspension. If you can manage to get ahold of a tein windmaster suspension then you can program it's aggressiveness not only on launch, but on gforces and speed (if you purchase the gps module). Widening the rear stance with spacers is also a good idea, and get good camber arms that won't give so it keeps those tires pressed to the pavement. Do it right and you can launch around 5k rpm with no spin.

DEpointfive0 02-18-2014 11:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fuct (Post 2697387)
arnt you selling one... :rolleyes:

Trading, and I was just telling the OP which one he needs :tup:

Diabel 02-18-2014 01:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DEpointfive0 (Post 2697566)
Trading, and I was just telling the OP which one he needs :tup:

What exactly final gears do you recommend for MT ?

DCNISMO 02-18-2014 01:41 PM

Micky Thompson drag radials......

Diabel 02-18-2014 02:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mitco39 (Post 2697336)
Boost controller that controls boost vs load. That way you can have it ramp up as opposed to just on or off.

Added to to list, forgot about it though already have the HKS EVC 6.


Quote:

Micky Thompson drag radials......
Wheels and tires are definitely important but this tread is about what everything else than that we could do to improve traction :)

future370zzz 02-18-2014 02:22 PM

How about an LSD or better LSD.

faceglide 02-18-2014 05:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diabel (Post 2697256)
To all boosted guys: could you share some knowledge&tips for traction improvements on your 400-500WHP beasts? Especially for drag racing and starts from 0 speed.

Could you mark below ways for better traction from best to worst? :

1. Racelogic traction control
2. Final drive gears (which one?)
3. Differential bushings upgrade
4. Suspension upgrade - 0 camber
5. Electronic Boost Controller with boost by speed/RPM

What else? (I did not mention about tires and wheels on purpose - because its obvious)

1. Not a huge fan of this. The car is not a GT-R, launches will never be automatic on a 3300lb RWD front heavy, short back powerhouse. Altho RL can get you into launch control, which has its uses with a turbo build.
2. Auto gears are a possibility. I am not a fan because I have always been a member of the "gear ratios swaps are bandaids not solutions". But after experiencing my car @ 600hp/590 ft lb....I can see some benefit by increasing the relevancy of 1/2/3 to match your power levels.
3. This should be #1. The best traction mod for the buck. Install sucks, or is expensive, but worth it.
4. I wouldn't go quite 0. Remember this car will go positive when it squats, it WILL squat. Just a thought, but 0 is definitely the right direction. I went with stock on re11's and my traction is formidable when they warm up.
5. Again, sure, but driver modulation again.WE are not running 30lbs boost, so you won't see much to gain from boost by gear, not much more by load or speed. I would suggest sensitivity if the punch is too hard, this will dull out the sharpness of that surge. The lovely thing about low boost, high power, is that you can modulate power, but keep your spool/pressure(because there isn't THAT much).

TL/DR: Suspension is lacking and is always first. Bushings are awesome, everything else is going to have to be tweaked to your specs, based on track data, everything is just speculative really. Electronics only mask driver deficiencies to a point. Just get out there and have fun with it, then tweak accordingly. I would definitely get a **** ton of passes before changing gears.

R3drckt09 02-18-2014 05:51 PM

I would totally be down to trade my stock 3.69 gears for the auto's 3.3's, but then I feel like my car would be so slow until my MHI TT kit ships (which seems like it's still gonna be a long time...)

DEpointfive0 02-18-2014 06:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by R3drckt09 (Post 2698324)
I would totally be down to trade my stock 3.69 gears for the auto's 3.3's, but then I feel like my car would be so slow until my MHI TT kit ships (which seems like it's still gonna be a long time...)

Get in line... Behind ME! Lol

critical 02-18-2014 06:16 PM

diff bushings, 7at pumpkin with 3.3 gears. RE-11's or similar, a proper diff. like a quaife, wavetrac, or an OS giken.

R3drckt09 02-18-2014 06:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DEpointfive0 (Post 2698357)
Get in line... Behind ME! Lol

Haha I think I'm like last in line, plus I'm not paying in full till tax returns hit

critical 02-18-2014 07:07 PM

someone need a manual 350z pumpkin? :P

https://scontent-a-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/...98767983_n.jpg


jk i sold this one in less than a day lol

phunk 02-19-2014 01:38 AM

The camber goes more negative when it squats, so the closer to zero you start out, the better. This car cambers HARD on squat. Normally you would want weight transfer and squat, but in a Z I would stiffen up the rear to prevent it if driving on street tires or drag radials unless I had the car aligned specifically for drag racing and didn't care about handling. Otherwise I would set base alignment around .5 negative camber and go stiff on the rear shock.

Don't forget that if you are running super aggressive wheel offsets, there is a chance they might not fit when you take out the camber.

Also, keep the rear suspension height closer to stock. The more slammed your car is, puts you deeper into the control arm arc, and the camber/compression ratio becomes more aggressive, pulling the top of the tires in even faster.

Z eliminator 02-19-2014 08:00 AM

MT drag radials + wet roads and rain = one very bad handling dangerous car to drive.
On dry roads , no problems.

Z

Joepro 02-19-2014 08:08 AM

forgive my noob question, what has to be done for a 3.3 at swap? just the gears? Or is the pumpkin all the same? I search but did not find much...thanks.

Diabel 02-19-2014 10:35 AM

I think whenever someone choose to go for the final drive gears or whiteline bushings it would be easier to do it together at once.

Is there any kit on the market which allows to swap OEM MT final gear from 3,6 to 3,3 ? I saw only 3,9 or 4,08.

DEpointfive0 02-19-2014 10:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joepro (Post 2699146)
forgive my noob question, what has to be done for a 3.3 at swap? just the gears? Or is the pumpkin all the same? I search but did not find much...thanks.

Just gears, but there is a world of NA auto guys that will just swap you a pumpkin to make it easier

Joepro 02-19-2014 10:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DEpointfive0 (Post 2699406)
Just gears, but there is a world of NA auto guys that will just swap you a pumpkin to make it easier

so its literally a direct swap? The input shaft and alxle stubs are the same, or would those need swapped? I already did my bushings, but this may be a future idea if I have traction issues.

Boosted Performance 02-19-2014 11:48 AM

On my own 350z, I found that some work in the rear will go a long way. I have the Quaife LSD with the 3.5 FD, BC springs/shocks, ADO8 295's and a differential brace that I built myslelf. The diff. brace went a long way because it kept the wheels on the ground, so the LSD can do its job. I built it myself (because I can) and because I did not think that whatever was available on the market was good/strong enough.

430ft/tq at the wheels and there is no traction issues in 2nd gear when it is warm out (summer). A lot of 1st gear sticks as well.

Joepro 02-19-2014 12:11 PM

I was on the fence between ad08s and 888rs...


Quote:

Originally Posted by Boosted Performance (Post 2699494)
On my own 350z, I found that some work in the rear will go a long way. I have the Quaife LSD with the 3.5 FD, BC springs/shocks, ADO8 295's and a differential brace that I built myslelf. The diff. brace went a long way because it kept the wheels on the ground, so the LSD can do its job. I built it myself (because I can) and because I did not think that whatever was available on the market was good/strong enough.

430ft/tq at the wheels and there is no traction issues in 2nd gear when it is warm out (summer). A lot of 1st gear sticks as well.


puckshaw 02-19-2014 01:12 PM

I assume changing the gearing would screw up SRM?

theDreamer 02-19-2014 01:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by puckshaw (Post 2699586)
I assume changing the gearing would screw up SRM?

Yes, but ecutek has said they can fix that.

puckshaw 02-19-2014 01:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by theDreamer (Post 2699589)
Yes, but ecutek has said they can fix that.

I want to believe.

theDreamer 02-19-2014 01:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by puckshaw (Post 2699591)
I want to believe.

Same here....I believe they have actually done it but need to find the thread.

DEpointfive0 02-19-2014 02:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by theDreamer (Post 2699593)
Same here....I believe they have actually done it but need to find the thread.

They were looking for a car to test it out on. Not sure if they ACTUALLY did it

theDreamer 02-19-2014 02:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DEpointfive0 (Post 2699720)
They were looking for a car to test it out on. Not sure if they ACTUALLY did it

Well that sucks...so still sticking with Uprev for now.
Maybe by 2020 ecutek will be a viable option for the 370z.

TopgunZ 02-19-2014 04:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boosted Performance (Post 2699494)
On my own 350z, I found that some work in the rear will go a long way. I have the Quaife LSD with the 3.5 FD, BC springs/shocks, ADO8 295's and a differential brace that I built myslelf. The diff. brace went a long way because it kept the wheels on the ground, so the LSD can do its job. I built it myself (because I can) and because I did not think that whatever was available on the market was good/strong enough.

430ft/tq at the wheels and there is no traction issues in 2nd gear when it is warm out (summer). A lot of 1st gear sticks as well.

So when can we expect this to be part of the BP line up? ;P Im sure you could push these as well.

faceglide 02-19-2014 04:36 PM

Waiting on the camber correction kit Charles! This would be sex.

phunk 02-19-2014 05:15 PM

1 Attachment(s)
It will happen! Just need some more time! So many projects at once.

Attached is a photo of my new set of wheels/tires for when I dont feel like dealing with any spin. Thats 3 sets of dang wheels for this car now, although only 1 set of fronts lol. I will be putting some skinnies up front soon though, just havent done the work to pick some out and order.

I am going to do a full setup for drag... temporary. Just for a couple local events I will setup the alignment and suspension (and rear brakes) for it.

28x11.5x15 ET Streets

Cell 02-19-2014 07:47 PM

Has anyone here done a final drive change? How much does that help?

Also, are there any dynamic adjustable camber arms that would self adjust itself as the car squats? Or this something 20 years from now?

phunk 02-19-2014 08:03 PM

Switching to a lower final drive will lower torque driven to the wheels. So it doesn't so much aid traction, but it reduces your need for traction. However, unlike comparable band-aids such as traction control, at least the final drive gear change offers the advantage of taller gearing in exchange.

I have not seen any production cars use dynamic control arms yet, but I wouldnt be surprised if there are high power RWD OEM cars like AMG or something using it, or working on it. The advantages to dynamic alignment are endless, so I doubt it will take 20 years... I would say any day now.

Chris@FsP 02-19-2014 09:12 PM

Weld the spider gears?


I kid, I kid.


Someone should come out with a selectable locker :D

DEpointfive0 02-19-2014 09:32 PM

^ Off topic, but... Man, where did you come from? I guess welcome back? LOL

1_Stealth_Z 02-19-2014 10:00 PM

The easiest way to gain traction is to....wait for it.....drum roll....LOWER THE BOOST!!! :bowrofl::happydance:


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:29 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2