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4 best ways to improve traction with boosted Z
To all boosted guys: could you share some knowledge&tips for traction improvements on your 400-500WHP beasts? Especially for drag racing and starts from 0 speed.
Could you mark below ways for better traction from best to worst? : 1. Racelogic traction control 2. Final drive gears (which one?) 3. Differential bushings upgrade 4. Suspension upgrade - 0 camber 5. Electronic Boost Controller with boost by speed/RPM What else? (I did not mention about tires and wheels on purpose - because its obvious) |
Stiffer/solid mounts
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Boost controller that controls boost vs load. That way you can have it ramp up as opposed to just on or off.
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Get the auto's final drive gears
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Suspension should be #1. Electronics just compensate for the problem, they don't solve it. I don't think changing the final drive should he high up on the list of things to do either for getting more traction
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Sticky Tires and a stiff suspension. If you can manage to get ahold of a tein windmaster suspension then you can program it's aggressiveness not only on launch, but on gforces and speed (if you purchase the gps module). Widening the rear stance with spacers is also a good idea, and get good camber arms that won't give so it keeps those tires pressed to the pavement. Do it right and you can launch around 5k rpm with no spin.
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Micky Thompson drag radials......
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How about an LSD or better LSD.
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2. Auto gears are a possibility. I am not a fan because I have always been a member of the "gear ratios swaps are bandaids not solutions". But after experiencing my car @ 600hp/590 ft lb....I can see some benefit by increasing the relevancy of 1/2/3 to match your power levels. 3. This should be #1. The best traction mod for the buck. Install sucks, or is expensive, but worth it. 4. I wouldn't go quite 0. Remember this car will go positive when it squats, it WILL squat. Just a thought, but 0 is definitely the right direction. I went with stock on re11's and my traction is formidable when they warm up. 5. Again, sure, but driver modulation again.WE are not running 30lbs boost, so you won't see much to gain from boost by gear, not much more by load or speed. I would suggest sensitivity if the punch is too hard, this will dull out the sharpness of that surge. The lovely thing about low boost, high power, is that you can modulate power, but keep your spool/pressure(because there isn't THAT much). TL/DR: Suspension is lacking and is always first. Bushings are awesome, everything else is going to have to be tweaked to your specs, based on track data, everything is just speculative really. Electronics only mask driver deficiencies to a point. Just get out there and have fun with it, then tweak accordingly. I would definitely get a **** ton of passes before changing gears. |
I would totally be down to trade my stock 3.69 gears for the auto's 3.3's, but then I feel like my car would be so slow until my MHI TT kit ships (which seems like it's still gonna be a long time...)
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diff bushings, 7at pumpkin with 3.3 gears. RE-11's or similar, a proper diff. like a quaife, wavetrac, or an OS giken.
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someone need a manual 350z pumpkin? :P
https://scontent-a-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/...98767983_n.jpg jk i sold this one in less than a day lol |
The camber goes more negative when it squats, so the closer to zero you start out, the better. This car cambers HARD on squat. Normally you would want weight transfer and squat, but in a Z I would stiffen up the rear to prevent it if driving on street tires or drag radials unless I had the car aligned specifically for drag racing and didn't care about handling. Otherwise I would set base alignment around .5 negative camber and go stiff on the rear shock.
Don't forget that if you are running super aggressive wheel offsets, there is a chance they might not fit when you take out the camber. Also, keep the rear suspension height closer to stock. The more slammed your car is, puts you deeper into the control arm arc, and the camber/compression ratio becomes more aggressive, pulling the top of the tires in even faster. |
MT drag radials + wet roads and rain = one very bad handling dangerous car to drive.
On dry roads , no problems. Z |
forgive my noob question, what has to be done for a 3.3 at swap? just the gears? Or is the pumpkin all the same? I search but did not find much...thanks.
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I think whenever someone choose to go for the final drive gears or whiteline bushings it would be easier to do it together at once.
Is there any kit on the market which allows to swap OEM MT final gear from 3,6 to 3,3 ? I saw only 3,9 or 4,08. |
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On my own 350z, I found that some work in the rear will go a long way. I have the Quaife LSD with the 3.5 FD, BC springs/shocks, ADO8 295's and a differential brace that I built myslelf. The diff. brace went a long way because it kept the wheels on the ground, so the LSD can do its job. I built it myself (because I can) and because I did not think that whatever was available on the market was good/strong enough.
430ft/tq at the wheels and there is no traction issues in 2nd gear when it is warm out (summer). A lot of 1st gear sticks as well. |
I was on the fence between ad08s and 888rs...
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I assume changing the gearing would screw up SRM?
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Maybe by 2020 ecutek will be a viable option for the 370z. |
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Waiting on the camber correction kit Charles! This would be sex.
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It will happen! Just need some more time! So many projects at once.
Attached is a photo of my new set of wheels/tires for when I dont feel like dealing with any spin. Thats 3 sets of dang wheels for this car now, although only 1 set of fronts lol. I will be putting some skinnies up front soon though, just havent done the work to pick some out and order. I am going to do a full setup for drag... temporary. Just for a couple local events I will setup the alignment and suspension (and rear brakes) for it. 28x11.5x15 ET Streets |
Has anyone here done a final drive change? How much does that help?
Also, are there any dynamic adjustable camber arms that would self adjust itself as the car squats? Or this something 20 years from now? |
Switching to a lower final drive will lower torque driven to the wheels. So it doesn't so much aid traction, but it reduces your need for traction. However, unlike comparable band-aids such as traction control, at least the final drive gear change offers the advantage of taller gearing in exchange.
I have not seen any production cars use dynamic control arms yet, but I wouldnt be surprised if there are high power RWD OEM cars like AMG or something using it, or working on it. The advantages to dynamic alignment are endless, so I doubt it will take 20 years... I would say any day now. |
Weld the spider gears?
I kid, I kid. Someone should come out with a selectable locker :D |
^ Off topic, but... Man, where did you come from? I guess welcome back? LOL
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The easiest way to gain traction is to....wait for it.....drum roll....LOWER THE BOOST!!! :bowrofl::happydance:
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