4 best ways to improve traction with boosted Z
 

To all boosted guys: could you share some knowledge&tips for traction improvements on your 400-500WHP beasts? Especially for drag racing and starts from 0 speed.

Could you mark below ways for better traction from best to worst? :

1. Racelogic traction control
2. Final drive gears (which one?)
3. Differential bushings upgrade
4. Suspension upgrade - 0 camber
5. Electronic Boost Controller with boost by speed/RPM

What else? (I did not mention about tires and wheels on purpose - because its obvious)

Stiffer/solid mounts

Boost controller that controls boost vs load. That way you can have it ramp up as opposed to just on or off.

Get the auto's final drive gears

arnt you selling one... :rolleyes:

Suspension should be #1. Electronics just compensate for the problem, they don't solve it. I don't think changing the final drive should he high up on the list of things to do either for getting more traction

Sticky Tires and a stiff suspension. If you can manage to get ahold of a tein windmaster suspension then you can program it's aggressiveness not only on launch, but on gforces and speed (if you purchase the gps module). Widening the rear stance with spacers is also a good idea, and get good camber arms that won't give so it keeps those tires pressed to the pavement. Do it right and you can launch around 5k rpm with no spin.

Trading, and I was just telling the OP which one he needs :tup:

What exactly final gears do you recommend for MT ?

Micky Thompson drag radials......

Added to to list, forgot about it though already have the HKS EVC 6.


Wheels and tires are definitely important but this tread is about what everything else than that we could do to improve traction :)

How about an LSD or better LSD.

1. Not a huge fan of this. The car is not a GT-R, launches will never be automatic on a 3300lb RWD front heavy, short back powerhouse. Altho RL can get you into launch control, which has its uses with a turbo build.
2. Auto gears are a possibility. I am not a fan because I have always been a member of the "gear ratios swaps are bandaids not solutions". But after experiencing my car @ 600hp/590 ft lb....I can see some benefit by increasing the relevancy of 1/2/3 to match your power levels.
3. This should be #1. The best traction mod for the buck. Install sucks, or is expensive, but worth it.
4. I wouldn't go quite 0. Remember this car will go positive when it squats, it WILL squat. Just a thought, but 0 is definitely the right direction. I went with stock on re11's and my traction is formidable when they warm up.
5. Again, sure, but driver modulation again.WE are not running 30lbs boost, so you won't see much to gain from boost by gear, not much more by load or speed. I would suggest sensitivity if the punch is too hard, this will dull out the sharpness of that surge. The lovely thing about low boost, high power, is that you can modulate power, but keep your spool/pressure(because there isn't THAT much).

TL/DR: Suspension is lacking and is always first. Bushings are awesome, everything else is going to have to be tweaked to your specs, based on track data, everything is just speculative really. Electronics only mask driver deficiencies to a point. Just get out there and have fun with it, then tweak accordingly. I would definitely get a **** ton of passes before changing gears.

I would totally be down to trade my stock 3.69 gears for the auto's 3.3's, but then I feel like my car would be so slow until my MHI TT kit ships (which seems like it's still gonna be a long time...)

Get in line... Behind ME! Lol