4 best ways to improve traction with boosted Z

critical · 02-18-2014, 07:16 PM

diff bushings, 7at pumpkin with 3.3 gears. RE-11's or similar, a proper diff. like a quaife, wavetrac, or an OS giken.

R3drckt09 · 02-18-2014, 07:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DEpointfive0

Get in line... Behind ME! Lol

Haha I think I'm like last in line, plus I'm not paying in full till tax returns hit

critical · 02-18-2014, 08:07 PM

someone need a manual 350z pumpkin? :P

jk i sold this one in less than a day lol

phunk · 02-19-2014, 02:38 AM

The camber goes more negative when it squats, so the closer to zero you start out, the better. This car cambers HARD on squat. Normally you would want weight transfer and squat, but in a Z I would stiffen up the rear to prevent it if driving on street tires or drag radials unless I had the car aligned specifically for drag racing and didn't care about handling. Otherwise I would set base alignment around .5 negative camber and go stiff on the rear shock.

Don't forget that if you are running super aggressive wheel offsets, there is a chance they might not fit when you take out the camber.

Also, keep the rear suspension height closer to stock. The more slammed your car is, puts you deeper into the control arm arc, and the camber/compression ratio becomes more aggressive, pulling the top of the tires in even faster.

Z eliminator · 02-19-2014, 09:00 AM

MT drag radials + wet roads and rain = one very bad handling dangerous car to drive.
On dry roads , no problems.

Z

Joepro · 02-19-2014, 09:08 AM

forgive my noob question, what has to be done for a 3.3 at swap? just the gears? Or is the pumpkin all the same? I search but did not find much...thanks.

Diabel · 02-19-2014, 11:35 AM

I think whenever someone choose to go for the final drive gears or whiteline bushings it would be easier to do it together at once.

Is there any kit on the market which allows to swap OEM MT final gear from 3,6 to 3,3 ? I saw only 3,9 or 4,08.

DEpointfive0 · 02-19-2014, 11:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joepro

forgive my noob question, what has to be done for a 3.3 at swap? just the gears? Or is the pumpkin all the same? I search but did not find much...thanks.

Just gears, but there is a world of NA auto guys that will just swap you a pumpkin to make it easier

Joepro · 02-19-2014, 11:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DEpointfive0

Just gears, but there is a world of NA auto guys that will just swap you a pumpkin to make it easier

so its literally a direct swap? The input shaft and alxle stubs are the same, or would those need swapped? I already did my bushings, but this may be a future idea if I have traction issues.

Boosted Performance · 02-19-2014, 12:48 PM

On my own 350z, I found that some work in the rear will go a long way. I have the Quaife LSD with the 3.5 FD, BC springs/shocks, ADO8 295's and a differential brace that I built myslelf. The diff. brace went a long way because it kept the wheels on the ground, so the LSD can do its job. I built it myself (because I can) and because I did not think that whatever was available on the market was good/strong enough.

430ft/tq at the wheels and there is no traction issues in 2nd gear when it is warm out (summer). A lot of 1st gear sticks as well.

Joepro · 02-19-2014, 01:11 PM

I was on the fence between ad08s and 888rs...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boosted Performance

On my own 350z, I found that some work in the rear will go a long way. I have the Quaife LSD with the 3.5 FD, BC springs/shocks, ADO8 295's and a differential brace that I built myslelf. The diff. brace went a long way because it kept the wheels on the ground, so the LSD can do its job. I built it myself (because I can) and because I did not think that whatever was available on the market was good/strong enough.

430ft/tq at the wheels and there is no traction issues in 2nd gear when it is warm out (summer). A lot of 1st gear sticks as well.

puckshaw · 02-19-2014, 02:12 PM

I assume changing the gearing would screw up SRM?

theDreamer · 02-19-2014, 02:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by puckshaw

I assume changing the gearing would screw up SRM?

Yes, but ecutek has said they can fix that.

puckshaw · 02-19-2014, 02:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by theDreamer

Yes, but ecutek has said they can fix that.

I want to believe.

theDreamer · 02-19-2014, 02:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by puckshaw

I want to believe.

Same here....I believe they have actually done it but need to find the thread.

02-18-2014, 07:16 PM	#16 (permalink)
critical A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Washington Posts: 1,252 Drives: 09' 370z 7AT Rep Power: 16	diff bushings, 7at pumpkin with 3.3 gears. RE-11's or similar, a proper diff. like a quaife, wavetrac, or an OS giken. Mr.Squeeze and luigi90210 like this. __________________ Quaife w/ gears \|Stillen Gen 3\|SOLD FI Resonated Test Pipes \|SOLD FI 18'' \| 25row Stillen Race \| Progress 35mm/25mm sways \| Swifts/Koni\|Volk G25's\| Stoptech SS lines\|\|SPL Front/Rear Arms\|

02-18-2014, 08:07 PM	#18 (permalink)
critical A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Washington Posts: 1,252 Drives: 09' 370z 7AT Rep Power: 16	someone need a manual 350z pumpkin? :P jk i sold this one in less than a day lol __________________ Quaife w/ gears \|Stillen Gen 3\|SOLD FI Resonated Test Pipes \|SOLD FI 18'' \| 25row Stillen Race \| Progress 35mm/25mm sways \| Swifts/Koni\|Volk G25's\| Stoptech SS lines\|\|SPL Front/Rear Arms\|

02-19-2014, 02:38 AM	#19 (permalink)
phunk A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Chicago Posts: 3,668 Drives: 370 Rep Power: 974723	The camber goes more negative when it squats, so the closer to zero you start out, the better. This car cambers HARD on squat. Normally you would want weight transfer and squat, but in a Z I would stiffen up the rear to prevent it if driving on street tires or drag radials unless I had the car aligned specifically for drag racing and didn't care about handling. Otherwise I would set base alignment around .5 negative camber and go stiff on the rear shock. Don't forget that if you are running super aggressive wheel offsets, there is a chance they might not fit when you take out the camber. Also, keep the rear suspension height closer to stock. The more slammed your car is, puts you deeper into the control arm arc, and the camber/compression ratio becomes more aggressive, pulling the top of the tires in even faster. fuct, 2011 Nismo#91, DEpointfive0 and 2 others like this. __________________ Charles @ CJ Motorsports : Website \| Facebook \| Instagram \| YouTube Home of the 9 second, stock longblock, stock drivetrain 6MT 370z. 9.91 @ 142mph

02-19-2014, 09:00 AM	#20 (permalink)
Z eliminator A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Ontario Canada Posts: 1,659 Drives: 370 Z 7AT Sports Rep Power: 19	MT drag radials + wet roads and rain = one very bad handling dangerous car to drive. On dry roads , no problems. Z __________________ 12.343 @114.14 . 4.5 stroker motor is now being built. Dec 1 2015.

02-19-2014, 09:08 AM	#21 (permalink)
Joepro A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Athens ohio Posts: 1,213 Drives: Company car Rep Power: 34	forgive my noob question, what has to be done for a 3.3 at swap? just the gears? Or is the pumpkin all the same? I search but did not find much...thanks. __________________ Swift\|Koni\|SPC\| FI CBE\|Z1\|Stillen\|Sbend\|Zspeed\|R/T Tuned\|523 whp\|458 tq\|10.5 psi\|SOLD Joepro's Journal\|Joepro's Boosted Performance Build \|Pittsburgh-Western-Pa-Ohio-Wv-Group

02-19-2014, 11:35 AM	#22 (permalink)
Diabel Base Member Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: Bensenville IL Posts: 103 Drives: 370z Rep Power: 13	I think whenever someone choose to go for the final drive gears or whiteline bushings it would be easier to do it together at once. Is there any kit on the market which allows to swap OEM MT final gear from 3,6 to 3,3 ? I saw only 3,9 or 4,08.

02-19-2014, 12:48 PM	#25 (permalink)
Boosted Performance The370Z.com Sponsor Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Edmonton, AB Posts: 1,629 Drives: Z's Rep Power: 3382	On my own 350z, I found that some work in the rear will go a long way. I have the Quaife LSD with the 3.5 FD, BC springs/shocks, ADO8 295's and a differential brace that I built myslelf. The diff. brace went a long way because it kept the wheels on the ground, so the LSD can do its job. I built it myself (because I can) and because I did not think that whatever was available on the market was good/strong enough. 430ft/tq at the wheels and there is no traction issues in 2nd gear when it is warm out (summer). A lot of 1st gear sticks as well. fuct likes this. __________________ 750WHP starting @ $7,500 to the door FOR DETAILS VISIT: http://www.the370z.com/members/boosted-performance.html FB: https://www.facebook.com/Boosted-Per...6303179791462/ IG @boostedperformanceyeg

02-19-2014, 02:12 PM	#27 (permalink)
puckshaw Track Member Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Charlotte, NC Posts: 620 Drives: 09 PW 370Z Touring Rep Power: 17	I assume changing the gearing would screw up SRM? __________________ >>>>>BP Build Thread<<<<<

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