GTM MHI Kit Group Buy Participants...
 

So, I agree with a lot of people that have stated we should start a thread to see who is still in it, who has paid, in what order, and what options did you go with. So here it is. Please only post if you are involved in the group buy so its easier for everyone to read through, and I'm hoping this doesn't turn into the MHI release thread or get locked... lol.

- Have you paid (fully or partially), and what number are you?
- If you backed out, post your refund status and what number you are.
- What options did you go with for the kit?
- What supporting mods did you buy, and are you doing the install yourself

For me...
-Fully paid #36
-Garrett upgrade .86 a/r, IWG, black powder coated intercooler piping, Uprev
-FI CF exhaust, FI test pipes, CSF radiator, Z1 25r oil cooler, prosport oil catch can, gtr plugs, fuel pump wiring mod, defi boost and a/f gauges, clutch after the stock one goes, doing the install myself.

Looking for around 500whp, at about 10psi.

Fully payed
20g turbos, fuel kit, external waste gate, and 3in down pipes
And can wait till summer no prob, but will get mad if i dont have till then, and still wont ask for a refund, just want my stuff.

I do my instal my self with few friends rite on the street, all neighbors come around 2 help, one time even cops asked me if i need some help and very curious what i was installing. I dont own a garage probly never will, but thats ok i dont mind anymore.

- Partially paid. I guess I am number 2 behind the guy that has the prototype kit. Have paid in a lot of time without my car.
- Still in it
- GTX upgrade, 3" everything, HFC
- Full cooling system upgrade, gauges (oil pressure, oil temp, boost, and AFR), traction control
- Install is happening at GTM

-Fully paid (don't know what number, I paid in June)

Kit:
-Garrett turbos .86 a/r, debating powder coating
-Internal Waste Gates
-ECUtek E-tuned from GTM
-Spring pressure (until ECUtek comes out with boost control or tells us they're not offering it)

Mods to do:
-34 row Setrab Oil cooler
-GTR plugs
-Fuel pump wiring mod
-GTM test pipes

Already done:
-Defi red racer boost, oil pressure, oil temp gauges (triple gauge swap, power is wired, sensors in engine bay)
-Red Innovate AFR gauge
-DIY A-Pillar

When they wear out:
-Zspeedperformance South Bend Complete Clutch Package Stage 3 Daily kit (stg 3 full face street clutch, 19lb flywheel, heavy duty CSC and new master cyl)
-Whiteline Diff Bushings

Other mods:
-Motordyne E370 Exhaust
-Swift Springs
-Whiteline front and rear sways
-H&R Bolt on spacers (20mm on all corners)

Goals: around or shy of 500whp, I want to keep my block stock for a while...

Fully Paid (July 1, 2013)

Garrett upgrade to GT2860RS .64ar IWG
Big FMIC upgrade


Southbend Stage 2 Endurance Clutch
DXD Black Flywheel
HD CSC
SS Clutch Line
32 Row Oil Cooler
CSF Radiator
Greddy New Profec OLED EBC
Hks Plugs
Z1 Testpipes
oem exhaust manifold gaskets
intake plenum gaskt


Utilizing oem nismo exhaust for stealth/noise concerns.
Low boost for dd reliability.
Aiming for 430whp.

Well done Nismo! I started a similar thread over on myg37.com about 6 months ago but didn't get a huge response unfortunately.

Fully paid back in May before the $AUD crashed.
Was 50 on the group buy list but according to Sam I was one of the first 5-10 who paid...

18G turbos (changed to Garretts with 0.86 housings now thanks to GTM's kind hearts)
IWG
Ecutek etune by GTM (possibly get someone to dyno tune a little in the future)
Greddy Profec Oled already installed in the ashtray (perfect fit for stealth look) - will run two settings 6-7psi for normal driving with 10-11psi option for traffic light GP and local club runs
GTM test pipes
GTM 25 row oil cooler
GTM transmission cooler
Transgo valve body upgrade (5AT)
GTR Plugs
Greddy multi D/A gauge with oil pressure, oil temp and water temp (might add fuel pressure and transmission oil temp down the track)

Already have full FI 2.5" exhaust and HFC's (which will be removed obviously)
Thinking of ceramic coating or heat painting the hot side of the turbos and the exhaust manifold to keep temps down. It gets damn hot here in Perth in summer.

Future mods:
Larger radiator (depending on how temps look post install)
Coilovers (not sure of brand yet)
Front and rear Swaybars
Front strut tower brace
DBA slotted rotors and new pads

What are the fuel mods that a couple of you have mentioned?
Full return system or something else?

M3chhawk posted a really good DIY to upgrade the wiring and add a relay. With the extra power we're putting through the pump, it sounds like it's a good idea to make sure the wiring can handle it. Thought it would be a good precaution to take...

The thread is called "DIY: build and install fuel pump relay and harness". I dunno how to make links using the app on my phone, but you can search it. It's a good read.

I know I'm not a part of the group buy, but can I jump in with a question?

Why wouldn't you go with the upgrade to the Garrett GT28 with the larger housing?

Thats a very good question.

I guess that the 20G would potentially be good for more power than the GT28RS with 0.86 housing but only once you are trying to push BIG, BIG power numbers, at high PSI (20+) and building your block. Apart from theoretical final HP number, the Garretts being ball bearing are a better option for our engines so you'd be pretty silly not to upgrade to them.

Nothing wrong with MHI turbos though. Plenty of Evo's run them on high boost and would smoke our boosted cars all day long!

So am I the only one holding out hoping that ECUtek comes out with Boost control? I was looking at the Greddy PROfec one too. Looks like a really nice unit. Maybe I'm too big of an optimist... But I don't know if I want to be the first guy to do it even if they ever come out with it... Ha

At this point, all of the ECUtek promises are vaporware.

Fully paid since day one, #20 when I spoke up for a spot (I think? I'm sure I'm far up the list for the first ones since I paid quick.)

Here are my kit options and supporting mods:
-Garrett GT2867R .86 a/r upgrade
-External wastegate and 3 inch downpipes
-Tuned with ECUTek
-HKS Hi-Power exhaust (planning to have a shop weld in a reducer to mate the 3in DP to the 2.5in flanges)
-HKS EVC6 Electronic Boost Controller
-Prosport Halo Analog Wideband
-Southbend Stage 3 Drag 6 puck sprung clutch and DXD Black 19lb flywheel
-ZSpeed HD CSC, as well as my own custom one-off Master cylinder upgrade
-Volk Racing RE30 19x10/19x11 wrapped in Potenza RE-11 245 f / 305 r


I'm also planning on doing:
-GT-R plugs
-34r Oil cooler kit
-Upgraded power steering cooler
-DEI gold wrap and sheathing for all intake tubing and cables
-Ceramic coating on all cast parts

I'm shooting for a max power limit of 550 whp. I feel like this should be possible, no pressure, on ~10 psi or less. Less being better. Of course with 93 octane.

I will be handling the install myself, over a period of a couple weeks. It's great having a beater car to get to work and school. :tup: I want to really be thorough with my install, and do every meticulous thing I need to do before I slap it all together and fire it all up. Efficiency is the name of the game.

Alstann, you gonna be drag racing your z a fair amount, or do you just need the 6 puck disk to hold that 550hp power range?

I actually plan on doing various things with my car - there were several reasons why I went for the Stage 3 Drag 6 puck. Before my stock clutch went out, I did many things with my car - including plenty of spirited driving, drag racing (and powershifting through gears), and some amateur drifting as well. When shopping for my clutch and flywheel, I wanted to purchase something that could hold the power of a twin turbo setup reliably, be able to withstand heavy abuse, as well as be daily driveable.

Even though I don't drive my Z every day, my plan for my build is a car that you can simply get into, start, and drive no fuss, no hassle. Basically like a very powerful, OEM+ car. The 6 puck mated to the 19lb steel flywheel matched all those requirements for me. I'm sure other clutches, including full face can hold the power fine, but I wanted the feeling that I would NEVER have to worry about my clutch not being able to handle anything I throw at it. Plus, the 6 puck is not bad at all to drive.

I was thinking about that same 6 puck clutch setup. But I think instead I might go os giken twin disc instead. Hoping to get a couple months out of the oem clutch before I throw that in since it's $2k. We will see how it goes...

If you can afford it, I would go with the twin-disc setup. It will be tougher to drive, but man, it is one hell of a nice clutch. Makes for a more efficient setup too. :tiphat: I wish we had a cheaper option for a twin-disc!

Paid in full July sometime.

going with Garrett upgrade to GT2860RS .86ar IWG Kit

also got GFB G-force 2 boost controller/HKS plugs for install

Still need to order the fuel pump wiring kit.

I only paid 33% to lock down the price, I'll pay the rest when the kit is ready to ship. I ordered:
-Turn key kit with IWG
-Garrett GT2860RS .86 a/r
-Uprev
So far I have
-Berk CBE
-non res TP's
-Stillen 25 row oil cooler
-GTR plugs
Going to buy prosport boost and wideband gauges in the next couple weeks, and looking to get a boost controller (hks evcs, interested in gfb but can't really find reviews). I'm looking around at clutches but will see how long the stock one holds.

A note on the clutch - I would recommend that if you have the time, or if a shop is doing your install, I would budget in a clutch in your build. Many TT and SC members making over 500whp have had very premature stock clutch failure. Better to save the headache now.

I agree, even though I will be waiting a couple months as well before I get a clutch. I should be good tho for a couple months, the car only has 4000 miles on it...

Ill second this. Its a little more money but you will have less down time if you just go ahead and get this done with the install. You will probably blow through the stock clutch in a few thousand miles.

Although I'm going with a different kit, I'm doing my clutch a month or so before I install the kit. This will give me a good amount of break-in time on the clutch before I add a metric fucton of torque.

Good clutch break-in is important and we all know it's going to be extremely difficult to keep your foot out of it once it's boosted :driving:

Am I the only one who went with the .64 exhaust housing?

I have a OS Giken stage 2 clutch and flywheel if you want it. I'll let it go for 1400.

Has less than 1000 miles on it.

You never know. It very well could let go on the dyno since there's no way for the tires to break loose and unload the driveline. Do the clutch at or before the turbo kit

That's what I'm running, and I love it. It spools instantly. Looking at a compressor map, I haven't even begun to push the turbos at 9 psi. Granted I'm running the EWGs, so it acts as if it has a slightly larger hot side, but if I had to do it again I'd still go with the .64.

I bumped up a size because I was IWG and was a little worried about boost creep. If you run the .64 would you say you should have external waste gates?

I would always run external wastegates regardless of turbo size.

Thanks Alstann maybe I will spring for a clutch before this thing ships. Tax returns should be in middle of next month anyways!

So a guy just started a thread where GTM has him waiting over 8 months on an intake tube!

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im not too worried about it. it'll be alright until i get the twin disc. I'm not doing the clutch at home (where I'm doing the turbo kit) otherwise i would just do it now. im going to be doing the clutch at work on a lift. it will be so much easier.

Oh man I would kill for a lift!

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yea its def nice. i would just do the turbo kit there, but my boss doesn't want me to tie up my lift very long. so i made it a winter project in my garage. at least i can drink beer in my garage while i work on it lol

That's what it's all about!

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I'm using a lift to install the turbo kit, but I've never done a clutch or anything power train related. Might leave that up to National Speed

Clutch is very straightforward. If you have a lift, it is a cakewalk. The basics are to just remove the exhaust (which you need to do anyway), remove the drive shaft, disconnect the wire harness surrounding the the transmission, unbolt the shifter from the tranny tunnel, and then basically remove the bell housing bolts and slide the tranny right out. If you follow a 350z guide which is almost exactly the same, it's no problem!

Hmm, yeah just read a DIY and it looks pretty simple, I figured there'd be some weird procedures with it or something. Well hopefully I can swing getting one before the kit arrives, if they ship in order of who paid in full first I'll be one of the last ones it seems like lol

I used to have one of these:
KWIKLIFT - The perfect carlift for your home garage or commercial shop

Comes apart and goes against the wall when not being used. Not as nice as something that can lift a vehicle over your hear standing, but those don't fit in standard garages.. :)

That's pretty slick. I went with one of these - MaxJax Portable Two Post Lift - Dannmar Equipment

It cost less than some exhausts for the Z. :rofl2: Everyone who works on cars should buy something like one of these two. Life becomes so much easier.

Man I'm a big dude it's hard getting in and out of the Z imagine being under to get some work done! ;)

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